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DW734 won't turn on. Power is fine, table saw works fine on the same circuit. pushing the Reset button doesn't help. Could it be the switch?

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  • Saws Master
  • 1,792 Answers

Sometimes it can be only dirty carbonbrush holders pos 146 open it and try be carefull to pull gently and patience the brushes out pos 148 control them if one or both are hanging inside the holder try to blow dirt out and sometimes a little spray wd 40 or better a canister lighter gas push the valve on the little corner of the brush holder it will work to clean it so that after 1 minute try again to pull it out most change the brush will become free to pull out but be carefull if not try to pull on the litz wire and push on the endof the brush tapping it gently that there will come slowly movement in the brush some wood or epoxy dust can give unforeseen problems with the motor the brass litzwire inside the spring will break out the brush if you pull to hard. if its hanging and will pull in a fast way.

But If both brushes are smooth on both sides replace it and try again next there is to made a measurement on the powercable necessary to the wallconnector it has perhaps a broken Braun or Blue wire. to the switch .

But is there AC ~ on both connectors to the switch about 120V in your Country it must be on the switch and from the switch there goes one of the wires over the circuit breaker BEWARE it could be the circuit breaker self thats damaged after a few breakprotections remove powerplug from wallcontact you have to measure on a beep or a light setting by multimeter in ohm measurement thats intact and have to be active shorted by measuring on both terminals of the circuit breaker if its have passage. then its ok.

If all of the parts are measured good then measure the same way on the main switch by switch on it must be give also a beep and if that is also ok then the cable from switch to the motor must be measured from begin until end at every colored wire to the electric field if all other parts are measured it could be 1 wire in the cable between field coil and switch , but if there is also no defect to find one for the last could be the stator field ( electric field ) itself one of the 2 coils broken ? or only a connector to slide connectors also to control every where must be in good order next on every coil there are 2 wires they must give a beep on both wires of each coil there are 2 coils on the field in this case there isonly one serial connection in the field so only a measure between the 2 wires of the field must give an ohm measure result also by beeping setting the multimeter . and last and least if that is fine then it must be a faultering in the powercable hidden defect sometimes repeat the measurement again or replace it to be safe becaus efaultering can it be give only on strange turnings or positions , and next step do a measure over both contacts of the carbon brushes by push both brushes with measure contacts on the brushes both ends and turn slowly the armature by hand you should find a broken collector on the armature if not there must be a bad bearing and by excessive motion the on the commutator-side it must have ruined the ends of the carbonbrush holders they can have become have a little burr on the ends of the brushholders oronly one by a melting holder in the house the commutator- collectors of the armature can also have problems by the accident it so that (one of)the brushes come not far enoug out of the holders.to push enough on the contacts.

There must something to find in this circuit.

Posted on Dec 30, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: Table saw won't turn on.

that reset is breaker and I would think that it should click when reset. I looked at a breakdown and the part number for the breaker is OLSL list 2.16 and they are in stock at Searspartsdirect.com If you have a volt ohms meter I would check the electrical starting at plug end of cord thru the breaker. Make sure you unplug tool before attempting. I would also take a look at the brushes for excessive wear and sawdust buildup. Let me know if I can help more

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Delta Table Saw stopped running

I have a table saw that the cord from the motor plugs into the the back of the on/off switch. I yours is configured like that, unplug the motor cord from the back of the switch and plug it in to the wall and see if the motor will run. If so replace the switch.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Powermatic 66 table saw won't start.

Your saw motor is equipped with a two speed internal start switch. Over time saw dust will get into the contacts and cause the points to burn. You can pull the end off of the motor and take some 400 grit sandpaper to the contacts to clean them( there are two sets of contacts one works in the out position the other in the in position) it will be the set in the in position that is the problem. Gentle clean them, reassemble the motor end cap and it will work fine. I have to do this about once a year to my saws. I use my saws about 25 hours a week. I have been doing this to one of my Powermatic saws for 31 yrs. now.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i am replacing power switch on ryobi table saw BTS20R

Hi, I have got a Ryobi ETS-1525SC Table Saw. Suddently it stop and as far as I can see the machine is ok but the blad is not moving. Could some one help please

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A CRAFTSMAN MODEL # 137.218041,, 10

Sounds like you may have overheated the motor. I'm surprised the overload on the motor didn't trip first. With this overheating, the windings in the motor have basically shorted out to ground. This is why your breaker is tripping. Rewinding the motor is no longer the option these days. You can try going online to www.searspartsdirect.com

Posted on May 16, 2010

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Craftsman model 137.415030 10 in portable table saw won't turn on. It is getting power the switch sounds like it is working ok but it won't turn on. The reset button ,does not appear to do anything.


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I have been using my Craftsman 10" Table Saw to


First things first, check the outlet that the saw is plugged into. Does it have power? If so then progress to the saw itself and check the reset button which is usually located on the front panel but sometimes on the back or sides. Press the button firmly to make sure it is not tripped and if it is this will reset it. Make sure the power is turned off and attempt to turn the blade manually ( caution,
the blade is sharp so a pair of gloves is recommended ). If the blade turns with very little resistance then turn the power back on and try the on/off switch. If the saw starts it may very well have been the circuit breaker that had tripped.

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My very old Craftsman 10" Table Saw does not power on. While rip cutting some plywood, I errored and caused the blade to bind. Before I was able to power off the saw, the motor stopped. I thought I had...


Go to searspartsdirect.com and put in your model number. Look at the motor and wiring section. Look at item 16. The motor overload protector. (probably your reset button) WIth saw unplugged, unwire one sid of this switch and test with an ohm meter. You should read through the switch. If it is open then that's why the saw doesn't work. Many of this type of oveload requires quite a push to reset as you're flexing a klixon disc back to make contact. If is open and you can't reset, it's available there although a bit high priced.

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How to reset a 740 power shop radial arm saw. Saw stopped during a cut. Breaker is good. Power source is good. Can find the reset button.


Hi Welby:
My saw is not a DeWalt, but the procedure should be similar.
First, WORK SAFE! UNPLUG THE SAW.
Now you can explore without the prospect of having it bite you.
Here are the things I would do:
1) Set the On/Off switch to OFF
2) Have a look at the motor. There should be RED (typical) reset button. When you find it give it a good solid push.
3) Check to make sure the On/Off switch is still OFF.
4) Plug in the saw.
5) Try turning it on.
If it does not work, I would unplug it and use a continuity meter to start checking the various components, especially the On/Off switch. If it has failed and you can't get a replacement you could
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Working fine and now it wont come on


Check to see if there's a reset button on the motor, usually on the end a small thermal switch you push in until it clicks...
Otherwise, check to make sure the switch hasn't shorted out somehow...disconnect the drive belt and make sure you have power to the motor when the switch is on, etc...

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Saw will not run


I had the same problem several months ago with a craftsman (shut down during a long rip), and the reset switch had tripped but did not actually pop out. I tested everything in the line between the power supply and the motor, and found out that the reset switch was not conducting. I was able to reset it manually before re-installing it into the saw, and it's been fine ever since. I'd test that before you start pulling the motor out, it would be a much easier fix if the switch was just sticking.

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I have a Skil 10'' table saw that will not power on.


If your switch is in the base of the machine, like some portable table saws. The switch may be full of saw dust. I hade one that the reset switch couldn't be pushed to reset because the housing was packet with saw dust. I simply opened the cover and vacuumed it out. If you open your switch box up and it is clean inside, your switch is probably bad. You can check it by taking the two wires off your switch (with the saw unplugged of course) and taping them together, if the saw works when you plug it back in, get a new switch.DON'T use your saw wired this way.

Mar 26, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

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Alright, I have fixed mine, so maybe the same thing will work for two as well. I actually have a slightly different model (113.298341) but I imagine the electronics follow the same basic layout. FYI, I got a manual online through Sears for free.

Mine has a manual reset thermal overload protector to keep from burning up the more expensive stuff. It is the red "reset" button near the main switch that ought to pop out if it gets too hot, and can only be pushed back in when the machine is back down to a safe operating temp. I overloaded my machine, and the protector broke the circuit, BUT the button did not pop out and I therefore couldn't just push it back in. I took out the protector, and although it looked like the circuit should be closed, there was no conductance through the protector. I took off the tiny bolt on the back of the protector, essentially jostled the thing a little, replaced the bolt, and conductance is now restored. I re-installed the protector, replaced the front cover, and now she works like a charm.

So maybe these reset switches often don't act like they are supposed to? I'd recommend just checking everything in the line, beginning with the main power line in. it will contain three wires: the ground will be bolted to the frame, the others will run to the main switch and the relay, respectively. With the machine plugged in, touch your volt meter probes to the contacts on the way INTO the switch and relay, and you should have 120V. Then, check the switch by turning it to the ON position with the machine plugged in, leaving one probe on the IN contact of the relay, and moving the other to the OUT contact of the switch. Again, you'll get 120V if the switch is working correctly. Alternatively, you could just check conductance through the switch directly w/o involving the relay contact, either way is fine.

Next in line is the thermal switch, which was my issue. Unplug the machine and/or turn off the main switch (I do both, no point taking risks). You'll need to unscrew the switch, which is a black plastic cylinder about an inch in diameter with the red reset button on it, and check for conductance by probing the wires leading into and out of the back of the black plastic cylinder. If you don't get conductance, you're in the same boat as me, and try to fiddle with the bolt and restore conductance. Otherwise, it might be the relay or the capacitor on down the line. If not those, your motor might be shot, but we'll hope thats not the ca$e.

Hope this helps guys, I was really surprised that it turned out to be such an easy fix, you just need a screwdriver, a 3/16 wrench (for the bolt on the switch), and a voltmeter that tests up to 120V and can test for conductance. One thing to be very careful of is the large capacitor in the control box. I just stayed away from it, but I would seek further advice on how to test it if you need to. After taking apart a couple of cameras as a kid, I know not to mess around with those things. Otherwise, just use the same good sense you should bring to any fix involving 120V of electricity and a 10 inch steel blade.

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