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Agfa rapile 43 runs very fast, it could not develop film hence film run fast without developing

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: Why is my polaroid one600 film developing with a redish tint?

probably expired

Posted on Jun 04, 2008

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: Blank Film Developing


you should have at least 6in. of exposed film from the film canister to the take-up spool unless you loaded the film in total darkness.
open the back cover to make sure the shutter is working, reload and give it another try.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

SOURCE: changing developer unit in afficio 450

Remove PCU, remove development unit, remove cover (2 plastic C-clips) remove filter, remove development roller (2 shoulder bolts). Clean roller and empty all developer. Pour in new developer, re-assemble unit. Reinstall drum and Development unit. Place a small piece of paper between the PCU and toner entrance hole to prevent used toner from entering dev. unit during calibration. Perform SP2-801. Remove paper form dev. unit

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: red static in black background ~ thin line running down center


Did you find a solution to your "red dot" problem? I'm having the same issue :(

Thanks John

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 3006 Answers

SOURCE: i have a nikon fm2 and everything seems to work

In that case you probably have a shutter fault. (Blank film is unexposed film, but if it's black film then report back as the causes will be different). The other possible causes would be that the film has either failed to engage on the take up spool or that the film has engaged but is not being wound on by the take-up spool, this could happen if the rewind lock button has got stuck (but then the rewind crank would not turn when you advance the film and the rewind action would be *very* brief). Another cause is that the mirror fails to flip up during exposure, but then your camera would sound very different and you'd notice that the viewfinder doesn't black out during exposure. As you didn't mention any of these obvious signs, I'll continue with the shutter.

Rewind any film and open the camera back. Remove the lens. Use the film advance lever to set the shutter. Hold the camera up to the light and press the shutter release button. If you don't see any light then it's a faulty shutter. You may wish to repeat the test at all shutter speeds including the B setting. If the shutter proves to be fine, then try again with the lens attached (remember to remove the lens cap, and set the aperture to it's widest setting). If the fault only occurs with the lens attached then it's a lens fault if it only happens with that one lens, and a different fault within the body if it's with all lenses.

If everything proves negative and you find no fault, then check with the last lab you used to see if they have an equipment fault. If the film is totally blank with not even any frame numbers, brand name nor bar codes present then it's been chemically bleached out

The FM2 has an entirely mechanical shutter which is usually highly reliable, and it's a model which I've very rarely encountered any serious faults on. Every fault I've had to deal on them with has been caused by abuse, lack of servicing, or simply where an example has clearly been so heavily used that it has worn out. As the batteries are used for metering only, the battery box and light meter can be ruled out as possible causes leaving you with a purely mechanical fault.

This is good as it means your FM2 is very likely to be repairable, but it's not a DIY repair. If your example has had a very long and hard life and is looking very battered, then let it finally rest in pieces(!), but otherwise I suggest that you book your camera in for a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust).

Your FM2 will be anywhere between nine and twenty eight years old, so if you're lucky the fault is just due to dried out gummed up lubricants. If you're unlucky then many parts are still available new from Nikon and there are millions of them in circulation so used parts are widely available. Any experienced camera repair technician will be very familiar with the FM2. I'd strongly suggest that you take the chance to get the foam light seals and mirror buffer replaced at the same time as if they haven't already turned into a corrosive black goo then they soon will; it's a one-off job and modern materials will last the lifetime of the camera.

You need to be aware that you're looking at spending a minimum of £80-£90 for repairs (more if parts must be replaced) and this exceeds the price of a used FM2. But even if you buy a used example, it's still going to need the CLA and seals unless there is reliable proof that it has been done recently by a professional technician. For what you may need to invest there is simply nothing else which comes anywhere close to the build quality of an FM2 and once serviced it should be good for many more years of use (although I'd recommend a CLA every few years).

A fully serviced FM2 in good condition is one of the few 35mm SLR's which is still in great demand, and so will be worth around £180 if sold privately. At that price, most repairs will be economically viable.

If you're in the UK then I can highly recommend A J Johnston for Nikon repairs, current turnaround time for most FM2 issues is about ten days.

I hope that my reply has been of assistance, if so then please take a moment to rate my answer.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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1 Answer

I have several rolls of Kodak film #2366, ASA 6. Any idea where I will find someone to develop this stuff

This is a motion picture duplicating film, it is not something you typically "get developed", certainly not in the same manner as you would film intended for consumer or professional pictorial purposes.

If you would like to learn about how yuo can possibly develop it yourself, please see the following link:

Sep 30, 2014 | Photography

2 Answers

Two rolls of film developed at CVS - apparently not exposed???

it is not unknown for film developing sites to with hold good photos so take another practice roll and have it developed somewhere else
That will prove either the camera or the developer

Apr 23, 2017 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Upon starting the machine, this message is coming up. Kindly advise what is the problem and how to solve it. The processor is film processor by Agfa an online avantra30 processor

i think u should clean box container of the solution from time to time
try to remove the existent solution now and clean everything and then make new solution and send me back wht happen

Feb 17, 2013 | Photography

1 Answer

The first time i got my film developed the pictures came out nicely. the second time the film came out off colored, it was more pink then normal. the third time the film came out off colored, the color...

Either the development house you took it to is not reliable, you're shooting out of date film, or in bad light.

Remember that film is designed only to look good in sunlight outside. They sell colored filters you can place on the front of your camera if you need to shoot inside without the colors looking off.

Feb 17, 2011 | Minolta Maxxum 5 / Dynax 5 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

My equipment: N75, 28-80, 70-210, 50fixed. I generally use Ilford 100 or 400 b & w films. I seem to have a - recurring - problem with the end result. The pictures are severally grainy, irregular...

The grainy nature of the picture is nothing to do with the camera. Do you develop your own film? If you don't and you are paying for processing, find a new processing house! If you are; the problem is reticulation. In any case the 400 ASA negative film will be more grainy that the 100 ASA. Both will benefit from some thoughtful processing. Key points that will help are: Do not over-develop or "push" the film. Pushing is leaving the film in the developer for longer than the recommended time (on the instructions in with the developer chemica)l. Pushing will increase the effective film speed by a controlled amount, but will always increase grain size, some times worth the price. BUT... the most common reason for graininess when not "pushing" film is reticulation. This is caused by the simple mistake of washing the film after developing and fixing (hopefully at 20 degrees C), in cold tap water. The sudden temperature change causes the grains to join up (Reticulate, just like a giraffe!) into bigger grains. Not reversible. Just do the wash stage in water that is the same temperature as the developer and the fixer. Of course the wash or stopper between dev and fix can cause the same problem... same answer, have everything at 20 degC. The irregular patches (dark on the negative) will be caused by insufficient agitation during development. The tank should be inverted every few seconds, or if in a commercial dev line, it should have nitrogen gas agitation every few seconds. Usually what happens is the dev house runs out of nitrogen but doesn't realise it has. If you can post a sample of your pictures I can be more accurate with a diagnosis, or email some to me at

Dec 22, 2010 | Nikon F75 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Developing a film without opening the camera

Am i right in thinking the keystone is a old 8mm movie camera? Never had any experience with movie cameras, or developing their film- I'm goin to assume its like 35mm developing, apologies if this is completly useless advice.
I'm fairly certain you will not be able to develop film in camera (camera will end up pretty wet). If the problem you have is actually getting film out o the camera I'd suggest a changing bag- basically a light tight bag that you put the camera in with your developing tin (if your home developing) or canister if your using a lab, you then have to put your hands inside 2 holes either side and transfer your film from camera to developing container- blind.
I'd advise doing a couple practice runs first with some old unused film just to get the hang of it- it can be tricky.
Again I have no experience with 8mm film processing but I'd imagine the principles are similiar.
You can get hold of changing bags from most photographic retailers, and always follow instructions that came with your film.

Nov 05, 2009 | Cameras

1 Answer

Blank Film Developing


you should have at least 6in. of exposed film from the film canister to the take-up spool unless you loaded the film in total darkness.
open the back cover to make sure the shutter is working, reload and give it another try.

Jan 25, 2009 | Nikon N90S 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Weird film exposures

check the developed film if the sproket holes are intact.

check your camera without film.

(1) open the back, do it as if you were taking pictures with different apartures/shutter speeds. If you can see the light coming in from the lens (no matter how little or how fast), your shutter and aparture diaphram are good.
if not, send it for service.

(2) if yes, check that the winding sproket wheel turns when you advance film.

(3) if it goes freely, try it again with finger pressing the sproket wheel. if this stops the wheel to turn, it is the gear/shaft inside disengaged. send it for service, of course.

(4) if your camera has a button for multiple exposure, ensure that it can be turned on/off as you wish, or you do not pressed it unnoticed.

good luck


Jan 19, 2008 | Nikon N55 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film doesn't develop

check your camer without film:

1). open the back, use different combinations of film speeds, shutter speeds and apartures. if you can see light coming in from the lens, no matter how little light and how fast.
2). check that film advances or not. if you camera detects film and loads automatically, insert any expired film cassette, or badly developed film and roll it back into cassette.
3). send it for service if either one or both gives you an answer of "N".

Jan 07, 2008 | Nikon N55 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

Konica Minolta X-370 Wont develop

Two possibilities : 1 ) your film was not properly loaded into the pick up spool and hence it was transported or exposed ; what you took to the lab was unexposed film. 2) the shutter is not opening and again no exposure takes place. To check this open back , set to slow speed like 8th of a second, and see if the shutter opens and closes properly. If the shutter does not open then it will have to go in, unfortunately. Cost ? If it is just an adjustment ( as I suspect is the case ) you should not pay more than $ 100.

Nov 01, 2007 | Minolta X-370S 35mm SLR Camera

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