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Siemens KA..N double door Fridge Freezer: defrost cycle problem

Siemens KA..N double door Fridge Freezer: the defrost cycle is not working properly. Ice accumulating on the bottom of the freezer. I took out the defrost heater to check for continuity. Other websites explain that the heater should be fine if it shows around 20-50 ohms of resistance. Mine shows 250 ohms. Does that mean it is broken? Will changing the heater fix the problem? Thanks in advance

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: Frost accumulation on ice maker

Normally the frost is taken away during defrost so if things get worse we need to look at the defrost timer.If freeze temps.begin to rise let me know, Thanks JT

Posted on Oct 24, 2007

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SOURCE: I have an Amana fridge bx20s5w that is not cooling the refrig part and runs much to much.

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: the cooling coil in the back of the freezer frosts

The ohms of the defrost heaters vary, but all you really need to do is check it for continuity. If its open, its bad. The defrost thermostat must be closed for defrost to happen,it is in series with the heater the defrost thermostat opens to terminate defrost, then the timer puts the unit back in run mode.
To check the defrost thermostat you have to put in in a freezer for a while then check for continuity . The actual open and close temps are usually stamped right on the defrost thermostat Its considered good practice to replace both the heater and the defrost thermostat while you are in there

Posted on Jun 28, 2011

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: siemens ka..n freezer problem

Look inside the back wall of the freezer to see if you have a layer of frost building. If yes this will indicate that the refrigerator is missing its defrost cycle. When you miss defrost it is usally number 1 the defrost control. Number 2 is the defrost heater has burned out and #3 the defrost thermostat. For you to look up the correct replacement parts you will need to find your refrigerators model number found most times inside the fresh food compartment. Click Here for=> Bosch Refrigerator Defrost ControlsI will be here to answer any questions you may have or if you have your model number let me know and I will help you find the parts you need, Thanks Sea Breeze

Posted on Feb 16, 2012

Testimonial: "Many thanks for your advice! Yes there is a thin layer of ice building up on the back wall inside the bottom of the freezer. We've discovered we have insurance cover on the freezer so have now called an engineer through Siemens, so hopefully they will be able to repair the freezer when they attend next week! Thank you for your speedy advice - much appreciated! "

mspencer5878
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung fridge coils frozen over on refrigerator side.

Not sure what the ohms should be,but ckeck coils for damage you may have a leak

Posted on Dec 07, 2013

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Siemens ka..n freezer problem


Look inside the back wall of the freezer to see if you have a layer of frost building. If yes this will indicate that the refrigerator is missing its defrost cycle. When you miss defrost it is usally number 1 the defrost control. Number 2 is the defrost heater has burned out and #3 the defrost thermostat. For you to look up the correct replacement parts you will need to find your refrigerators model number found most times inside the fresh food compartment. Click Here for=> Bosch Refrigerator Defrost ControlsI will be here to answer any questions you may have or if you have your model number let me know and I will help you find the parts you need, Thanks Sea Breeze

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Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool, then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling, then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not cooling.-------

Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:----

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html

-----------

This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.

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Its defrost problem.--------- When you open the freezer door, then ice starts getting defrosted, because outside temperature is warm and due to that inside ice gets bit melted.--------- -------------- The working procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. ----------- The damper is operated by a motor.Its a complete damper assembly with motor included in it.--The damper has door.Which closes and open with the help of motor.In your case the damper door is blocked by ice, because your refrigerator is not defrosting.But when you open the freezer door, the inside ice gets bit warm and it starts melting and this lets the fridge section get cool.------------------- In this case you will have to manually defrost the ice and inspect, if the problem solves.For manual defrost procedure, click the link below:-------- Click this below for more detail:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html ----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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Fridge problem- How to check everything http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp .
OR
.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Door problem-The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.

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I have an Amana bottom freezer, model BX20S5E that is not cooling properly in either compartment. I have replaced both the defrost thermostat and defrost timer (new). Still no change... what I do notice is...


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