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I have a "limit switch fault code 4" reading on my thermostat. What might this indicate? What is required to repair this? Thank you

(F,G) 9 MAC

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: where can I purchase parts?

Try Orange County Appliance Parts in Garden Grove, CA.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a thin twin stacking whirlpool

I think you are on the right track with a faulty high limit switch. When i serviced these units we always replaced the operating thermostat and the high limit switch together they came in a kit. The operating thermostat in theory should never let it get hot enough to trip the high limit switch, which is really just a safety backup for the operating thermostat. Get the kit and replace both, and also make sure your exhaust vent going outside has good flow at the outside vent,a restricted vent system will cause similar issues.. Good Luck

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

  • 634 Answers

SOURCE: My o/d light started flashing, indicator read trans fault. No previous indications, also dipstick reading nothing. diagnostic machine read no code.

your dip stick should read between the marks, add fluid through tube, ask store for correct fluid, the low level will cause overdrive not to work and overheating of transmission, check for leakage.

Posted on Jun 09, 2012

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3 Answers

I have a 01 ford windstar im getting acode. P1132 can you explain why

Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich A HEGO sensor indicating rich at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. I would change both of the upstream (before the catalytic converter) O2 sensors (cylinder bank 0ne and two). 9 times out of ten this is the right guess to fix this code.

Sep 07, 2016 | 2001 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Ariston dishwasher lkf 720 has a problem on/off, washing and end indicator lights are flashing

Reading the error code

The fault on the appliance is signalled via:

1. the continuous rotation of the selector knob
2. the action, for the first 4', of the electrovalve and the drain pump
3. the door becomes unlocked
4. the led flashes: the number of flashes indicates the fault code; the code should be read as follows:
· each fast flash (2/3 flashes of the led very close together) represents one code value
· the fault code is evaluated by counting the number of flashes occurring at 3/4" intervals from one another
· stop counting when the washing machine waits the equivalent of approximately 8/9" between flashes
· the procedure is repeated by the appliance cyclically

After you determine which the alarm code appeared we will able specifically to help you.


Sep 13, 2014 | Ariston Technologies Ariston AWD12 Front...

2 Answers

Fault 9 flashing on wl26cw fisher and paykel washer

Fault 9 LAH HIGH CURRENT FAULT The low ambient heater is drawing more current than expected. Either the heater or wiring is faulty.

Primary Action

- Check the wring and connections at both heater and power module.

Secondary Action

- Check heater resistance. If not within limits replace heater.

Aug 03, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel WL26CW1 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

What does fault code f03 mean in miele g7881 washer?

Wash water
temperature T3 in
wash block CHDESIN
not reached
within 60 minutes
Temperature limiter F2 has
cut out
Reset temperature limiter F2. See
Resetting Temperature Limiter F2
(Thermostat), 030 4.2. If necessary,
replace the temperature limiter. See
Replacing Temperature Limiter F2
(Thermostat), 030 4.3.
Heater elements do not heat
Check heater elements. If necessary,
replace a faulty heater element; see
Heater Element Replacement, 030 4.5..
Heater level switch does not
See Heating Level Switch Does Not
Switch On, 050 3.1
Voltage (6VDC) from the
electronic not present. The
heating level switch controls
the heating relay voltage.
Check plug connections.
Check electronic module output voltage;
see 070 Fig. 5, Pos. 9.

Nov 08, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

1994 legend speedometer works once in a while

92 or 94?
is fuse 22 loose?
did the CEL lamp in dash glow at this FAILURE event
or S, D or D4 auto tranny lamps flash? BINGO,

did you look for ECU/PCM errors first.? that be first .
is the odometer dead? too, at same time?
on this car the VSS module (veh.speed sensor)
sends the speed data to 6 other modules. the speedometer is 1.
so of the other 5 are dead, its the VSS dead, if not its a bad speedometer.
on of those modules is the PCM, that runs the EFI engine.
so scan it, on this old car, you insert the diagnostic jumper
(service check conn.)
and read the flash codes from the CEL lamp in the dash.
this will show 17 error, VSS bad. if bad (its bad or bad conn)
easy huh?

log in to and read the how to read OBD1 codes
it will be something like this. (photos missing)
When a fault is noted, the ECU (otherwise known as the ECM) stores an identifying code and illuminates the CHECK ENGINE light. The code will remain in memory until cleared; the dashboard warning lamp may not illuminate during the next ignition cycle if the fault is no longer present. Not all faults noted by the ECU will trigger the dashboard warning lamp although the fault code will be set in memory. For this reason, troubleshooting should be based on the presence of stored codes, not the illumination of the warning lamp while the car is operating.
All models are equipped with a service connector in side the cabin of the vehicle. If the service connector is jumped, the CHECK ENGINE lamp will display the stored codes in the same fashion.
The 2-pin service connector is located under the extreme right dashboard on Integra, Legend & 2.5TL; on Vigor models, it is found behind the right side of the center console well under the dashboard.
Codes 1-9 are indicated by a series of short flashes; two-digit codes use a number of long flashes for the first digit followed by the appropriate number of short flashes. For example, Code 43 would be indicated by 4 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes. Codes are separated by a longer pause between transaxles. The position of the codes during output can be helpful in diagnostic work. Multiple codes transmitted in isolated order indicate unique occurrences; a display of showing 1-1-1-pause-9-9-9 indicates two problems or problems occurring at different times. An alternating display, such as 1-9-1-9-1, indicates simultaneous occurrences of the faults.
When counting flashes to determine codes, a code not valid for the vehicle may be found. In this case, first recount the flashes to confirm an accurate count. If necessary, turn the ignition switch OFF, then recycle the system and begin the count again. If the Code is not valid for the vehicle, the ECU must be replaced.
and this warning
On vehicles with automatic transaxles, the S, D or D4 lamp may flash with the CHECK ENGINE lamp if certain codes are stored. For Legend this may occur with Codes 6, 7 or 17. On Vigor and Integra it may occur with codes 6, 7 or 13. In addition, the TCS lamp on NSX may flash with codes 3, 5, 6,13,15,16,17, 35 or 36. In all cases, proceed with the diagnosis based on the engine code shown. After repairs, recheck the lamp. If the additional warning lamp is still lit, proceed with diagnosis for that system.

Sep 19, 2013 | 1992 Acura Legend

1 Answer

Where is thermostat located on dryer

Short answer: The cycling thermostat is behind the rear panel of the dryer on the left. The hi-limit thermostat is on the element housing on the right at the bottom.

Detailed instructions including common and expensive mistakes:

Unplug the dryer from the wall
Disconnect the transition duct (the flex duct that connects the dryer to the dryer vent)
There will be 9 different 1/4" hex cap screws around the perimeter. Take the screw out that holds the terminal block cover first (where the cord connects to the dryer, it's on the right) and set aside.
I usually take out the top screws last so the panel doesn't fall on me.
With the screws out, gently lift the dryer cord up so you can remove the panel.
The operating or cycling thermostat is held onto the blower housing assembly on the left. It will have 4 wires connected to it. In my experience, these are very rarely at fault. Part no. 3387134 Picture:b57f785c-2228-43b7-821b-2672c00c3168.jpg

Next is the thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse fails, it means the outlet temp of your dryer was over 195F or so indicating a primary fault (the fuse being the secondary fault). To test, disconnect the wires from the terminals. Connect two leads of an ohmmeter or a multimeter set to ohms (Rx1 or Rx10 if it isn't auto-ranging) to the exposed terminals. It should read less than 1 ohm (0.2-0.6ohms is common with most meters.) If it reads infinite or if it's digital and reads 1, the fuse needs to be replaced. Do not replace it until you determine what caused the overheating initially. Part no. 3392519 Picture:

On the right hand side, you will find the thermal limiter and hi-limit thermostat. The thermal limiter acts in a similar manner to the thermal fuse but at much higher temperatures. It is located at the top of the element housing and duct. Testing is the same as for the thermal fuse, and if this is the culprit, it should be treated as a secondary failure.
Thermal limiter picture:

The hi-limit, like the operating or cycling thermostat, rarely ever fails. Typically a failed thermal limiter is the result of too large of a load in the dryer or improper ventilation. Testing is the same as for the other components. Because Whirlpool has to assume that the hi-limit should have de-energized the circuit to the heater BEFORE the thermal limiter failed (it cycles at a lower temperature), these two items now come in the same bag. If you decide you want to replace both at the same time (and it's recommended that you do), you will need to gently pry the brass (sometimes silver-plated) terminal connector seen in the top right corner below. Part no. 279816 Picture: 70a1d2b7-a7e9-43bb-90f1-0e056c068769.jpg

A couple of notes on ventilation (READ THIS)
If the dryer is heating at ALL and I mean if there's just the faintest bit of heat, the problem isn't in your dryer, it's in the ventilation. If your dryer is located in an interior room, you need to visually verify that the dryer duct is made from smooth walled 4" circular aluminum or galvanized pipe. 3" won't work, and flex duct in any enclosed area like in a wall or under the floor (it's fine behind the dryer, as long as it isn't kinked or excessively long) has been a building code violation since 1974. Unfortunately that doesn't count for much because I routinely find flex duct where it doesn't belong in brand new construction. Happens all the time, take my word for it. Also, check that the termination of the duct (the cap) isn't clogged and doesn't have a mesh or screen on it.

Diagnostic guide:
A. The dryer will start, with the motor spinning and drum turning but there is no heat
1. Turn the breaker for the dryer off and back on.Remove terminal block cover (1 screw). Plug in the dryer. Measure the voltage from the middle wire (just touch the back of the screw) to the each side wire. You should get 120 volts AC. Then measuring the outside two, you should get 240v. If you get 0 here, or if you get a value that isn't close to any of those (10-100v), you need to call an electrician. If OK, continue.
2. Check the thermal limiter. If failed, replace.
3. Check the element (two 5/16" terminals at the base of the duct on the right hand side). It should read 10-30 ohms with your meter set to Rx100 or whatever setting it has that's larger than the value you anticipate. Also check ohms between each terminal of the element to the metal housing around the element. These should both read infinite resistance. Check this with the HIGHEST ohms value available to you. Don't touch the metal ends of the probes, as the meter may read resistance through your skin. If failed, replace. Part number is 279838.
4. Check the operating thermostat (across the two big terminals on the outside, no need to check the smaller two which power a tiny heater) and hi-limit thermostat. These should read less than 1 ohm at room temperature. If either has failed, replace.
5. If all of this checks out and your dryer isn't heating at all, you probably have a failed drive motor. If you can do the repair yourself, buy a motor. If you have to pay a servicer, it's more cost effective to replace the dryer altogether.

B. If the dryer won't start at all
1.Verify proper voltage (see above)
2. Check that the door switch is being depressed. It will be behind the closing surface of the door, usually at the top. They're usually ok if you depress the switch and hear or feel a sharp little click. With the dryer still plugged in, turn the timer to a timed cycle, say 40 minutes. With the door closed, put your ear next to the timer knob. If you can hear the timer motor moving or the timer moves down over a course of 30 minutes, the door switch is ok.
3. If you can't hear the timer motor moving and the door switch is in good shape and clicks when you press it, disconnect the power from the dryer and proceed to check the thermal fuse on the left.
4. If the thermal fuse is good, there are a few things that could be the issue. I won't go into disassembly instructions, so you may need to call a technician.
a. Failed door switch. Should read less than 1 ohm when depressed.
b. Burnt wiring, especially at the terminal block.
c. Similar to "b", but the neutral circuit is broken or burned somewhere. This is uncommon.

If you skip any of these steps, you're going to be doing more work than you need to, and you may be throwing money away on a service call or repeat parts failures.

Aug 22, 2013 | Estate TEDS740JQ Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Need to find obd in 1990 honda accord

TROUBLE CODES System Diagnosis READING CODES When the "Check Engine'' warning light on the dashboard comes on and stays on, it indicates a problem in the fuel injection/emissions system. Check the ECU for fault codes. On certain models, some codes will not trigger the check engine light; if driveability has suffered, check for stored fault codes. The most common error when using fault codes is to assume the indicated component has failed rather than checking the entire circuit. The presence of a trouble code means simply that the electrical circuit for the named component is not functioning properly. For example, a code for the oxygen sensor circuit does not automatically mean the oxygen sensor has failed. A wire terminal may simply be loose or corroded at the connector. When using diagnostic or fault codes, always remember that the entire circuit including the component must be checked carefully. On 1990-95 Accord (except V-6) and 1992-95 Prelude, the codes are read from the check engine light after the two-wire service connector has been jumpered. On Accords, the service connector is under the dash on the passenger side. On Preludes, it is located behind the center console. Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by a series of short flashes; two-digit codes use a long flash for the first digit followed by the appropriate number of short flashes. For example, Code 14 would be indicated by 1 long flash followed by 4 short flashes. Codes are separated by a pause between displays. Multiple codes are transmitted in an alternating pattern. For example, a code 3 and 14 would be displayed as 3 short flashes (for Code 3) followed by the separator pause, then 1 long flash and 4 short flashes (for Code 14). Fig. 7: Fault codes are read from the check engine light on most late-model vehicles 86804048.gif
Fig. 8: On Accords, the service connector is located under the dash on the passenger side 86804049.gif
Fig. 9: The service connector on Preludes is located behind the center console 86804050.gif
  1. Use a jumper wire to connect the two terminals of the service connector together.
  2. Turn the ignition switch ON; the check engine light will display any stored codes by rhythmic flashing. NOTE: In the event that a code is encountered which is not on the chart, re-count the number of flashes. If the code is truly wrong, it will be necessary to swap the ECU for a known-good unit and recheck. Since this can be expensive, you may wish to bring the car to a reputable repair facility if no other cause of the failure can be found. This may save you the expense of purchasing an unnecessary part.
  3. If no codes are displayed but a driveablity problem exits, testing of the system individual components is necessary to find the problem. If codes are displayed, follow the appropriate troubleshooting chart in this section. Fig. 10: Fault code chart for 1990-93 Accords 86804051.gif
    Fig. 11: Fault code chart for 1994-95 Accords (four cylinder) 86804052.gif
    Fig. 12: Fault code chart for 1992-95 Preludes 86804053.gif

Dec 14, 2010 | 1990 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Meaning of rudd furnace trouble codes

Error Codes
A green LED indicates system faults
Steady On: System OK
Steady OFF: Board control fault or no power applied
1 Flash: Ignition failure (control in one-hour lockout)
2 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails open (switch is
stuck open)
3 Flashes: Limit switch open (main or auxiliary)
4 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails closed (switch is
stuck closed)
A yellow LED indicates flame status
Steady on: Normal flame is sensed
Flashes: As flame weakens, frequency of LED flashes

Dec 12, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Flashing airbag light

yes, go here for more help. There is a file on how to download codes and clear system.

The number of flashes is giving you a lamp fault code, LFC. What is it giving you?

Diagnostic Test Modes Without Scan Tool
Two mode options are available under the diagnostic test modes:
  • user mode.
  • diagnosis mode.
The ignition switch is used to alternate from one mode to another.
Diagnosis Mode
The diagnosis mode will display any fault present in the system. The SRS will not enter diagnosis mode if no malfunction is detected.
User Mode to Diagnosis Mode
NOTE: The SRS will not enter diagnosis mode if no fault is detected in user mode.
  1. Ignition switch to ON.
  1. After the air bag warning indicator lights for seven seconds, set ignition switch to OFF within one second.
  1. Wait more than three seconds.
  1. Repeat steps 1 through 3 three times.
  1. Ignition switch to ON.
Diagnosis Mode to User Mode — After Repair
  1. Ignition switch to OFF for at least one second.
  1. Ignition switch to ON.
Diagnosis Mode to User Mode — During Diagnosis
NOTE: If switch from Diagnosis Mode to User Mode is required while diagnosing a fault, carry out the following procedure.
  1. Ignition switch to ON.
  1. After the air bag warning indicator lights for seven seconds, set ignition switch to OFF within one second.
  1. Wait more than three seconds.
  1. Repeat steps 1 through 3 three times.
  1. Ignition switch to ON.
Clearing Lamp Fault Codes
NOTE: Lamp fault codes must be cleared from memory before proving out the system.
NOTE: When a new RCM is installed, the air bag warning indicator will operate in user mode. Switching to diagnosis mode is not required.
To clear lamp fault codes after a repair, carry out the procedure to switch from diagnosis mode to user mode. Once in the user mode, the lamp fault codes will be cleared from memory.
Lamp Fault Codes
If the air bag diagnostic monitor detects a current fault, the fault code will be displayed with a flashing sequence of the air bag indicator. The fault code consists of:
  • A start signal to indicate the beginning of a fault code.
  • A number of flashes indicating the particular code that has been set.
The start signal:
  • begins with two seconds off.
  • two seconds on.
  • off.
  • one second on.
  • two seconds off.
Following the start signal, if any current fault is detected, the fault code will be displayed. The fault code:
  • is a series of half second flashes of the air bag indicator.
  • is followed by the start signal.
The start signal and the code for any current fault will repeat until the ignition is switched off or the air bag diagnostic monitor is switched to the user mode.
Inspection and Verification
  1. Verify the customer concern by checking the air bag indicator in the instrument cluster. Refer to Prove Out in this section.
  1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage using the following chart.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Damaged air bag diagnostic monitor bracket
  • Open fuse
  • Damaged wiring harness
  • Loose or corroded connectors
  • Circuitry open or shorted
  • Damaged shorting bars

  1. If the concern is not visually evident, enter the system Diagnosis Mode.
  1. If no DTCs are displayed in the Diagnosis Mode, proceed to the Symptom Chart in this section.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, proceed to the Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Fault Code Table in this section.

Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Fault Code Table Code Component/Fault Description 0 Normal Operation/No Fault Detected 1 Front Passenger Safety Belt Pretensioner 2 Driver Air Bag Module Circuit Is Faulted 3 Front Driver Safety Belt Pretensioner 7 Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Fault 8 Passenger Air Bag Module Circuit Fault 9 Low Battery Voltage

Mar 24, 2009 | 2001 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

I have a coleman evcon dagto7obdd fan keeps running i changed the limit switches fan keeps running and 4 blinking lights means limit open

Check for continuity through all your switches. Check voltage where these switches hook up to your control ignition box.if you see voltage there the problem is either the wiring or one of your switches is open. If you read no voltage there check again from "C" to the same wires a readign then indicates a bad board. Then check "R" to there a reading here indicates a bad thermostat (which is probably not your trouble due to the code and your legend of the code 4)

Hope this is cleaR and helps Please grade am accordingly and good luck.

Mar 08, 2009 | Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater...

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