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Where can I find a replacement screw for the plate under the pressed foot?

It has two, the one in the right is missing. I have to hold the right side down when I sew.

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  • Sewing Machines Master
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  • B Kain
    B Kain Dec 12, 2016

    Sorry, this did not take me to a parts list or anything revelent.

  • noel
    noel Dec 12, 2016

    i will see what i can find can you give me the model of it please.

  • noel
    noel Dec 12, 2016

    this is the only thing i can find that you might be able to get parts..http://www.sewingmachinesales.co.uk/sewi...

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I undid the screw of the foot shaft without a foot on it and the shaft dropped to the plate. I have levered it up and put foot on but the foot wont lift, can you advise me how to fix this please?


there two holes on the side plate where the presser ft bar is located. take off the rubber cover and a screw will be visible. this screw controls the presser ft. height and angle of ft. place ft all the way down and cnter needle in foot slot and them tighten screw. use an long screw driver because u get more leverage. in fact long screwdrivers are the only thing to use on machines. every one should be ground to fit the different screws. anyway raise the foot to see how much clearence u have and adjust accordingly.

Aug 06, 2014 | Juki DDL-5550 Industrial Straight Stitch...

1 Answer

Presser foot shaft twisted


You can correct this.

Put an ordinary foot on. There's a clamping screw at the back of the part that has twisted round. The head of the screw faces towards the right of the machine (towards the hand wheel). Get a decent screwdriver and loosen the clamping screw a little. Turn the part round so that the sides of the feet are precisely parallel to the slots in the needle plate. Retighten the clamping screw.

Try not to let the misaligned part slide up or down which it will if you slacken the clamping screw too much. It's at the right height when the little lever you use to hold the foot in place has engaged about one third to one half it's length on the lump on the side of the foot at the top.

Apr 04, 2014 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Bar that hold the sewing foot is loose


If the comment already posted did not answer your question, here is another thing to check. If the screw that attaches the foot and ankle to the presser foot bar is tight, and the foot can still be moved, it is likely that the presser foot bar has become loose within the lifting mechanism. You could save yourself some trouble by taking your machine to a sewing machine repair shop, but if you would rather avoid that expense, do the following. Remove the needle bar and take up mechanism cover on the left side of the machine. This is held on by a single phillips head screw on the back side of the machine, which, with the back of the machine facing you, should be on the top right side of the machine. Once this cover is removed you will be able to see two vertical metal shafts, one is attached to your needle clamp and needle, and should be in the front. The other is the presser foot bar, and will be behind the needle bar. There should be a small allen screw about halfway up that shaft that tightens onto the bar. With the presser foot properly positioned on the needle plate, tighten this allen screw. Don't tighten the screw too tightly, as this can damage the presser bar, just make sure it's nice and snug. Make sure the presser foot raises and lowers properly, and re-attach the needle bar cover.
Hope this helps.

Mar 16, 2014 | Brother CS6000i Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

Need to remove needle plate


Remove the presser foot and needle. Press the feed-dog drop button on the right-hand end of the machine, so that the feed-dogs drop below the needle plate. Press the back right-hand-side of the needle plate firmly and the front left side should pop up. You can then lift the plate out to clean underneath etc. When replacing, put the hole in the plate over the locating lug at the front-right corner and make sure the right-hand-side of the plate is down first, before pressing the left-hand side down into the grey surround. Be careful not to use excess force if it wont go, otherwise you could break the retaining spring. When done, dont forget to press the feed-dog drop button again and rotate the handwheel once, so that the feed-dogs come back up again.'

Hope that helps

Jan 27, 2012 | Bernina Artista 180

1 Answer

How do i install the darning foot?


Make sure that you have a darning foot that is compatible with your machine. I believe that the 7422 is a low shank foot; the appropriate daning foot is http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/darning-foot-singer-006016008.aspx . Lift the presser foot and remove the foot currently on the machine, including the ankle. (Loosen the screw on the left side of the ankle.)

Place the darning plate over the regular plate and feed dogs. The pins should lock into the spots on the machine.

Place the U-shaped opening of the darning foot over the screw that you loosened previously. Then tighten the screw to hold the foot on the machine.

Lower the presser foot onto your fabric. Set your stitch length. Lower the lever on the right side of the darning foot and hold onto your top thread (assuming the needle and bobbin thread are already threaded.) Now sew.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Aug 10, 2011 | Singer 7422

2 Answers

Pfaff 1471 foot problem. Foot wont go down all the way, I have to press on it manually and hold with a finger for the foot to stay down for enough pressure to run over the fabric. feed dogs are up. Not...


Try lubricating the pressure foot shaft where it slides up and down (2 Places). To do this you need to remove the left side cover - the flat black screw in the slot under the left side of the carrying handle. Back the screw off slightly and pull off the left side plate. This should allow you to oil the shaft. I use Mobile 1 Synthetic 0W-20 oil. I find it works extremely well, as good or better than sewing machine oil. The problem is caused by the original grease they used when these machines were manufactured. The grease hardens over time (especially if the machine hasn't been used for awhile) and causes the shaft to stick. You might need to use a little penetrating oil initially, especially if the shaft is really stuck. This is a fine machine - good luck... LS.

Dec 10, 2009 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Pfaff 1471 presser foot does not go down


This procedure is SPECIFIC TO THE PFAFF 7570. It MAY work for you. Try at your own risk.
Needed tools:
Small flat screw driver.
Large Phillips screw driver
Small torx screw driver
Large torx screw driver
Small cleaning brush
Small scissors and long tweezers.
Machine oil.
Old tooth brush.
Dish detergent.
Lots of care and patience.
In this particular case, perseverance was the winner. I'm quite handy with mechanical things, so I had to partially disassemble the machine until I found the cause of the problem. The foot presser mechanism DOES have a spring, but it's concealed and out of sight. I never suspected it, but that was the case. When I found it, white grease that was put there at the factory to lubricate its movement had turned into a think sticky gunk. That was what was holding the foot presser in the up position. This gunk was so stubborn! I had to clean the spring, the housing and a plastic pin really well, and then oiled all the components inside their housing. More below.
The shaft of the foot presser is hollow at the top. This is designed to hold a 1-5/8" spring and a 5/8" black plastic pin that's inserted at the top of the spring and protrudes from the hollow shaft.
Start placing the 7570 on a table that has a height that's comfortable for you. You'll be standing and squatting a lot to accomplish the task.
Standing behind the machine, and looking down, there's a metallic plate on your right that holds the thread tension discs. This plate covers the shaft, found underneath, and holds together the mechanism with the round wheel with numbers that protrudes slightly on the side of the machine's body.
Several pieces had to be disassembled in order to get to this plate, although at this point I'm doubting whether or not so much work was necessary, since I was so excited upon the discovery that I forgot to notice whether I could have found the spring and remove it without having to disassemble so many pieces.
The metal plate is black and thick, and is held down with a heavy gauge black machine screw. The plastic pin makes contact with the underside of this plate, which compresses the spring when the foot presser lever is up. Once the lever is disengaged from its locked or resting position (in the case of the embroidery position), the compressed spring pushes the entire foot presser down, as it DID when I first bought the machine.
These are the disassembly steps, without diagrams, but use your imagination as best you can to picture my description.
1 - Top cover removal.
The top cover (the one with the different built-in patterns drawn on its inside face) is held in place by two thin black metal plates where it hinges. A little bit of pressure towards the outside on the top of one of the plates (on either side) will release the pivot pin on one end, and then a little jiggle in the same direction will release the other. Put the cover aside.
2 - Concave top cover removal.
This cover is the one that houses the thread spool in the horizontal position, if that is your choice when sewing. It is held down by two plated machine screws, one short and one long. After removing the screws a little jiggling will help removing it, pulling it mainly upwards. You may need to put the large handle up, to allow for more movement. Put it aside once removed.
3 - Side cover removal.
This covers the area where the foot presser is housed, on the left side of the machine, as you face the buttons on the front of the machine.
Standing behind the machine, once step 2 has been achieved, one can see from the top, looking down, a large black machine screw on your right hand side, just inside the cover. You don't need to remove it completely, just about 1/2 turn will loosen the pressure to release the cover. Pull the cover outwards and sideways and set aside. You may want to also remove the light bulb, to be able to get to the mechanism to clean it, to remove pieces of thread that may be lying around or caught in the different moving parts. Push the light bulb gently in while turning it counter clockwise. You'll feel it disengaging from its socket. Pull it out and set it aside. Clean it if necessary. Use the scissors and the tweezers to remove any lint and debris.
4 - Pressure discs plate removal.
I'm not 100% sure now that this can be done at this stage, but continue. If this particular plate cannot be removed, because other components get in the way, then skip to step #4A below and come back here later.
Standing behind the machine, looking down at the housing, you'll see another large black machine screw holding down a black metal plate. Remove it completely and put it aside. Next, remove the plate, gently nudging its way out of the different obstacles that may be present. One of them may be the sewing shaft mechanism. If this is the case, gently turn the wheel manually to cause the mechanism to move up or down, as to allow more room for the plate to be completely removed.
Make sure you lift this plate slowly, as to prevent the spring and plastic pin from spilling inside the machine's body. Put the plate aside. Now you see the black plastic pin, perhaps stuck inside the hollow part of the foot presser. If so, pry it loose gently and clean it with a sudsy solution, and use an old tooth brush to remove the gunk from its coils. Do likewise to the plastic pin.
While you have the housing exposed with lots of space, I would suggest you should remove any debris, dust, etc, and oil all the moving parts with sewing machine oil.
5 - Assembly.
This is done in the reverse order. Congratulations! You've done it!
Additional steps, if metal plate in step 4 above cannot be removed after step 3.
4A - Front plate removal (The one with the colored buttons and LCD display).
Standing behind the machine, looking down, you'll see a grey ribbon cable crossing the case from back to front, under the main shaft. Remove its connector by pulling it up gently. No force or tools are necessary. Bend the ribbon to one side and set it aside, out of the way.
Squatting a little from the same position, looking inside the foot presser housing, you'll see two small plated screws, close to the edge of the housing, one towards the top and another towards the bottom. Remove completely.
In the same squatting position, and moving your attention to the main machine housing, you'll see the green PCB board. It's held by at least three screws. One of them, on your extreme left, is not visible because it's concealed by a plastic insert at the top of the left end of the 7570. This insert is held down in place by a thin black metal plate. This plate has a tiny hole where the top cover of step 1 hinges.
Gently turn the small torx screw holding down this plate 1/2 turn counter clockwise to release the pressure. Once loosened, slide the plate slightly towards your right. This will allow you to pull the insert up.
With the insert out of the way, squatting again, you'll see the third plated screw on your left. Remove it.
Turn the machine upside down and ensure it's not rocking from side to side.
Use the large torx driver to remove the machine's base. This base contains a power supply box, and another green PCB board. It's connected to the rest of the machine with several ribbon cables of different colors. The base is attached by 4 machine screws. Loosen the screws completely and remove using the tweezers.
Raise the base from the right end, allowing its other end to rest on the edge of the inverted 7570 body and stand it at 90°. Inspect the location, orientation, and general layout of the cabling. You may need to unlatch one or more plastic holders for the ribbons, which hold them flat and organized. Remove these holders to have greater access to the connectors.
Jot down the order of the different ribbons and the way the are inserted into their sockets on the PCB found inside the base. Fortunately the connectors are of different sizes, and there should be no way to insert the wrong one in the wrong socket, but it's best to be safe. Jot down order, color, etc.
Gently pull on the different connectors from the PCB board. A little bit of force is all that is needed. Push them aside one by one in order to allow you to see more and create more space.
Next, disconnect the large power cord. You need to insert a small flat screw driver to release pressure on the sides of the socket. Do it one side at a time, and then gently pull it out. Set the base aside. You're almost done!
Next, looking down, pushing the ribbon cables away from you, you'll see two plated screws in each corner of the inverted 7570 housing, on the side closest to you. Remove completely. At this time you should be able to remove the face plate, gently threading the widest of the ribbon cables through the opening on your left, in order to put the base aside.
With the face plate out of its position, put the machine in its straight up position and step 4 above can be accomplished.
Now, I also did remove the 7570 main handle in order to create more space and see more in the reduced area of the foot presser housing. If you too find it necessary to do so, use the corner of the tip of a small flat screw driver to pry the lock ring open, being careful not to allow it to spring out of your fingers and falling inside the case. Slide the pin out and then the handle itself, horizontally.
Go back to step 4 above if you came here because you could not do step 4.

Aug 22, 2009 | Kenmore 15218 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Pressure foot doesn't go down


needs to be serviced, you can ship to me i can fix keithat11@aol.com

Jul 30, 2009 | PfaFF Creative 7570

1 Answer

How can I get the case of my Singer Featherweight II open?


To remove the cover of the Singer model 117 Featherweight II sewing machine:

Referring to the diagram below:
hronbo.jpg
1.Remove the face plate by removing the single screw fastening it to the left end of the chassis.

2.
To make things easier, remove the presser foot (raise the presser foot and release the presser foot from its holder by pressing the black plastic foot release found at the rear of the foot holder, the foot will fall off.)

3.Remove the plastic see-thru slide plate that covers the bobbin. Remove the bobbin, and remove the two screws that secure the needle plate.Lift off the needle plate.Don't mess with the feed dog screws( Look closely at the" bobbin case assembly" and note how it is installed. The black thing you are looking at is the assembly. The chrome thing that looks like a hook is a fixed "bobbin case stop plate" , the case assembly fits under that and is supported by the hook race. Approximately 180 degrees from the fixed stop is a spring stop- note that the bobbin case assembly is free to rotate/ wiggle approximately 1/8" between these two points, and it is seated evenly in the hook race.Remember what you see so you can reinstall it later)Remove the bobbin case assembly with your fingers.

4.Remove the detachable tool case from the front of the machine by sliding it to the left.

5.The face cover is fastened to the chassis with four screws- two on the bottom which also pass through the bottom of the rear cover, one behind the face plate just above the lower thread guide, and one on the front of the machine behind the tool case. Remove the screws on the front and the left end, and loosen the two screws on the bottom ( if you are planning to remove the rear cover go ahead and remove the bottom screws completely.) There is no need to remove the screws that hold the auxiliary leg bar.

6.The screws are out- HOW DO I GET THE COVER OFF!?!
There is a hidden locking tab located just beneath the mylar seal that warns you to disconnect the machine before servicing and to close the cover before operating the machine. It is located just to the right of the needle plate and directly over the seam that separates the front and back covers. Don't remove the seal just slice it with a razor blade or utility knife right along the seam, make sure you cut all the way through the seal.

Working from the needle plate opening, take a medium sized flat-bladed screw driver and slide it under the rear cover just behind the seam (see photo) carefully twist the blade in a manner that both separates and lifts the rear cover off the front cover- it takes quite a bit of force and it will let loose with a loud snap. After the locking tab is loose the front cover is easily separated and lifted off the chassis.

unlocking the case:
hronbo_0.jpg

a closeup of the tab on the front cover
hronbo_1.jpg

7.The rear cover is held on by three screws. There is one through the back at the handle recess, and there are two screws accessible from the front after the front cover is removed. Lower the presser foot lever, pull the screws and the rear cover will come off easy. Good luck with your repairs.

Nov 10, 2008 | Singer Featherweight II 117

3 Answers

Elna walking foot


If your SU is an Air Electronic model i.e. 80's model, Elna didn't make a walking foot to fit. However, if you've got a walking foot that is the same height from sole plate to the screw fitting as a standard Elna foot then you could give it a try. The walking foot connects to the presser bar with a screw but the needle bar also needs to hook into a secondary lever on the side of the walking foot to make the foot actually move. Probably sounds very confusing . Check the movement of the foot manually by hand turning the fly wheel to see how it works before you actually use with the motor to minimise any problems if the foot doesn't fit.

Also you'll probably only be able to do straight stitch with this foot due to the clearance around the needle plate.


Oct 27, 2008 | Elna 2007 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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