I have been using the same EL160's (5 of them) for years on our internal LAN. I usually had to recycle power 2 or 3 times a year. I only need one 160 now, but I can't seem to get the last remaining two to come online. I have stored the basic IP parameters in the box itself and then powered it on. In the past, when I connected power, the LINK light would come on, then the ON light would flash for 5 seconds or so and then both lights would stay solid. Now they either both come on solid together or one will come on solid and the other on solid soon after. Do I need a fluke meter or some other network monitoring device or is there another way to determine a problem ? I can use a boot console to modify and store the device parameters.
I am not sure if it work, why don't you check if it is the port problem by switching the wire or plug other computer to that port. If you can get online then it is not the port problem, slowly add 1 computer at a time to see if there is limit on number of computer you can connect.
Secondly, check the setting on your router, is there restriction of how many computer can get the ip.
If you type ipconfig /all on dos of each computer connect, you get the gateway, can you ping the gateway on each?
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Look again. Those "RJ11/RJ12" are not 2-pair/3-pair small Telco jacks but rather the 4-pair lager size found in Telco data com circuits (ancient DS0/T1 technology) and commonly now for Ethernet often referred as Local Area Network, LAN, data communications at 10 up to 1000 Mbps. An RJ45 is larger and can not fit into an RJ11/RJ12 jack. The smaller RJ11/RJ11 will insert and make contact with the inner pins but if the line is active the Belkin device now has/will have a blown port. Don't!
Your Belkin N600 expects one Ethernet cable from a cable or DSL modem into the WAN or Internet port on the Belkin N600 for link through your carrier to Internet.
A four port gang of Ethernet RJ45 plugs is also present and is where your in-house PCs and Ethernet peripherals plug in. On the OEM website usually there is a colored quick setup guide to help you.
Some OEMs designate a yellow Ethernet wire from cable/DSL/satellite modem to WAN port and blue for internal LAN devices to try to reinforce outside verses after the NAT firewall inside the router for your internal LAN. The signal doesn't care about color it's for you.
The internally generated WiFi or WLAN (wireless LAN) is part of the LAN side but allows WiFi radio connection to client devices.
The 4-pair Ethernet cables have 8 conductors wIth the wire end of the plug to you and the contacts held upwards you will note the four pairs and their colors blue, orange, green and brown each with one conductor of the pair white with the color and then the color solid or more correctly the color with white stripe. Signals are on pins (left to right) 1&2, 3&6. On standard cable both ends are the same - a straight through, for hub to client. A cross-over cable takes 1&2 to 3 &6 on the opposite end and vice versa. This was for client to client or hub to hub connections before auto-sensing ports showed up to make the signals swap if needed automatically found in most equipment today. Some cables from OEMs have the correct physical size and pinouts, but only use the 2 signaling pairs. It is best to use these short distances and preferably away from rf noise like in modem to WAN port connections.
The twists per inch in the cable and interweave determines frequency response which defines CAT 3, CAT5, CAT5e and CAT6 level of Ethernet cables. CAT5 is fine else CAT5e/CAT6. CAT3 is generally considered now for telco use only, but can be pressed into into service short haul. (Won't get the 328 ft rated reliably above 10baseT speeds).
You may run across Ethernet with PoE this means on unused pairs a device like a video camera is fed power as well as data connectivity over its Ethernet connection. Follow directions to put power to the correct location as needed and look for any recommended grounding requirements, especially with antennas.
Prices vary widely depending upon bubble packaging and the store overhead generally $6-$12 for about 6 ft or 2 m.
If you want to make your own then RTFM and understand millage may vary until you get the right tools and parts and practice while adhering to standards. I find it more cost effective to use pre-made & tested cables except if failure at an end then I repair followed by testing to re-qualify the cable to not degrade its use.
OBTW - Generally the USB was for single computer use at lower speeds of earlier service speeds below 3-6 Mbps - usually don't.
You need to double check the model number you have provided. It doesn't seem correct. Look at the back label. Then you need to visit the regional site of Panasonic that your product was sold. For example; Europe, Oceana, Asia, North American, etc... Open the Support pull down from the top line menu. Go to Downloads and place the correct model number. If the Panasonic search engine can't locate the model, try reducing the numbers to just the first four. Select the language you need to download/display the pdf file of the closest model number. Remember to have the free Acrobat Reader X installed on the computer to read the file. (The manuals I found were TX29F etc..., there were no TX29S models listed.) Manuals usually go back 10 years or so; if the TV is older than 10 years it has exceeded its useful life as consumer electronics are only listed as having a useful life of 6 years. Basically, after 6 years they are worthless for resale, so recycle it when it breaks. Ain't worth fixing as we say down south.
companies that make recycled plastic Adirondack chairs are using old water
bottles and milk containers. They can be
made from up to 90% recycled plastic and are said to last several years. In my opinion, this is an option worth
looking into. They will probably be
quite inexpensive too.
I guess you are talking about a line of text printed on the T6050 when it is powered on.If this is the case you simply have a network card installed in the printer but have not connected a network cable.To resolve this problem either connect a network cable to the internal network interface or remove the internal network card from the printer if it is not being used.
This sounds like a classic Power Supply overload. Your options are to purchase the power supply you found for $23 and attempt to revive this machine or to replace the machine. Being as this is a very outdated system, 9-10 years old, I personally would not suggest spending any money on it. You can get a current technology system that will be incomparably more powerful for $300-$600 (maybe less depending on your needs and ongoing sales). As a side note if you unplug the system and sniff the vents of the power supply do they smell like electrical burning? With the power supply completely disconnected and removed from the system you could open the casing (4-6 screws) and see if there is any burn markings or bleeding capacitors. Power Supply failure is very common for this model (as well as D530s) and at my work (a public school system) I have literally replaced hundreds of these power supplies. We no longer support the systems and have sent most of them for recycling now.
check the coil by pulling the plug and lay it against the head put the plug wire on pull the handle if it sparks then its not the coil another thing you can try is spay carb clean or starting fluid in carb see if it starts if that starts it then the float in the carb is stuck if i can help further e-mail me @email@example.com
Right click the recycle bin in 'my computer' or on the desktop and goto the properties.
You may then configure the recycle bin for each drive or turn it off altogether.
Once it is turned off for a particular drive you may remove the recycler folder (ignore the warning) it will not re-appear again when you delete files.