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I have a 110v irrigation pump. I have a 25 ft 10Gauge extention cord from the pump to my outlet. The cord gets very hot for about 4 - 5 inches from the outlet. Is the problem coming from the pump or the outlet. Thanks
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If the AC unit is 110V then you must plug it into a regular 110V outlet. You cannot plug it into the 220V outlet. Either get a bigger 220V unit or use a 12 gauge extension cord to get it to a 110V outlet.
I have done this in a couple ways. With a digital timer you can select a zone on manual and turn only that zone on. with a mechanical timer, you can set the dial to that zone and increas the duration. You can "hot wire" the zone by moving the zone wire to connect to the low voltage wire input to the zone. You can take a transformer out to the ground box and with an extention cord "hot wire " the zone at the ground box.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Air outlet duct
Coolant
Inlet radiator hose from the water pump
Upper fan shroud
Cooling fan and clutch assembly
Drive belt
Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump
Surge tank hose
Heater hose
Water pump
Fig. Exploded view of the water pump assembly-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L
engines
To install:
NOTE
DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless
otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar
compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling
system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause
engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine
components/assembly.
Install or connect the following:
Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump
bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to
22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten
the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts
final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Surge tank hose
Heater hose
Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump
Drive belt
Cooling fan and clutch assembly
Upper fan shroud
Inlet radiator hose to the water pump
Air inlet duct
Coolant
Remove or disconnect the following:
Air inlet and outlet duct
Coolant
Inlet radiator hose from the water pump
Upper fan shroud
Cooling fan and clutch assembly
Drive belt
Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump
Surge tank hose
Heater hose
Water pump
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11
ft. lbs. (15 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
for the final pass.
Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten
the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 18
ft. lbs. (25 Nm) for the final pass.
Surge tank hose
Heater hose
Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump
Drive belt
Cooling fan and clutch assembly
Upper fan shroud
Inlet radiator hose to the water pump
Air inlet and outlet duct
Coolant
Hope this help to solve it (remember comment and rated this).
Alero, Grand Am 1999-2005
Thermostat - Removal & Installation
2.2L Engine
If equipped with an automatic transaxle, remove the exhaust
manifold, as outlined in this section.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe bolts.
Remove the thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe.
Fig. Thermostat mounting-2.2L engine
Remove the thermostat.
To install:
Install the thermostat.
Install the thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe.
Install the thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe bolt.
Tighten the thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe bolt to 89 inch
lbs. (10 Nm).
If equipped with an automatic transaxle, install the exhaust
manifold, as outlined in this section.
Fill the cooling system.
3.1L Engines
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the cooling system to a level below the thermostat housing.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the surge tank line from the thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing-to-intake manifold attaching bolt and
nut, then remove the housing.
Remove the thermostat.
To install:
Clean all gasket surfaces completely.
Insert the thermostat in the intake manifold.
Attach the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.
Install the mounting bolt and nut. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Connect the surge tank line to thermostat housing.
Refill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, remove the radiator cap, then
start the engine. Allow the engine to run with radiator cap removed,
until the upper radiator hose becomes hot (thermostat open). With the
engine idling, add coolant to the radiator until the level is up to the
bottom of the filler neck.
Install the radiator cap, making sure the arrows line up with the
overflow tube.
3.4L Engine
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the air cleaner.
Remove exhaust crossover pipe.
Disconnect the surge tank line fitting from the coolant outlet.
Remove the thermostat housing to intake manifold bolts.
Remove the thermostat housing outlet and thermostat
Clean the mating surfaces.
To install:
Install the thermostat and housing outlet.
Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten the thermostat
housing bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install exhaust crossover pipe.
Connect the surge tank line fitting to the coolant outlet. Tighten
the fittings to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Air outlet ductCoolantInlet radiator hose from the water pumpUpper fan shroudCooling fan and clutch assemblyDrive beltRadiator outlet hose from the coolant pumpSurge tank hoseHeater hoseWater pump
DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless
otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar
compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the
cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may
cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the
engine components/assembly. Install or connect the following:
Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump
bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass
to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten
the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts
final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Surge tank hoseHeater hoseOutlet radiator hose to the coolant pumpDrive beltCooling fan and clutch assemblyUpper fan shroudInlet radiator hose to the water pumpAir inlet ductCoolant
Standard extention cords are made for light draw applications like lamps and T.V.s. They are not heavy enough for the power that your A/C will draw. You can get an appliance extention cord that is made to handle heavier load such as you A/C. Most hareware stores carry them.
Well a dryer works off of 240 Volts. It splits that up. The light in your dryer uses 110V but the heating elements use 240V. The motor which won't start uses 110V and the controls use 110V. There could be a couple prolems and of which it could be. You need to get a meter and check that both leads are getting 110V from each hot lead to neutral. Also when you switch back to a three prong, the ground is no longer separate and you need to jumper the ground to the neutral terminal. (When you have a four prong cable the ground is separate for the fact that its safer). Even if the circuit breaker is on, I would check that each terminal of the breaker is putting out 110V to ground (If so it needs to be replaced, its simple to do just wire it like the other one, and turn off main power to replace it so there is no power to the buss bar its attached to. Just be careful not to touch the main feed wires to the panel as they are still powered). If none of this pans out, it could also be that your dryer needs that four wire plug (I would check with your manufacturer). Either way, if your dryer worked before it shouldn't be a dryer problem now
usually the grounding strap is still on the machine after the installation of a four prong cord (they just bend it out of the way), if not you can use a wire to connect the neutral to the case or just buy a ground strap when you buy the cord.
(hot wire 110v) neutral wire (hot wire 110v)
neutral wire is always in the middle.
both on the cord and on the machine
If your dryer came with a 4-prong plug, do not change it. For the very reasons you quoted with the article, you may screw up the 110v accessories required of your appliance (like the clock or digital display). It is best to change the household outlet to a 4-prong type. Just make sure your wiring is correct. You will need a neutral on the 4th leg, which means you will probably have to run new wiring from the outlet to the distribution panel.
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