Question about Samsung Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Overflowing washing machine
check the pressure switch . its circluar in shape with 6/8 wires attached, and a small nipple with a 10mm pipe attached. as the water rises in the drum air is pushed up thru this pipe which when working ok , eventually pushes against a switch .hence its name. so, if there is damage to this pipe( maybe rubbing against the drum) the passage of air escapes before reaching the switch. if the pipe is ok then check the switch by blowing up the pipe (with the power off ) and u should hear a small click inside the switch. if not replace
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.
Next, follow these series of steps:
1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.
2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.
3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.
Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.
Some things to consider:
If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.
When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
The door lock is the problem... try to push the door harder... or change the door lock! It is usually done in 5 minutes.. .... if it is only 5 months... you have a warrenty!
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
SOURCE: Tromm LG front loader error code
Already answered by an expert :-
This a common problem for all front loaders. Your washer will not drain or work 'cause your outlet filter is clogged or an unusually heavy load. The small door is on the left side front bottom of your washer. Remove the door with a putty knife or thin butter knife inserted in the middle top of the access panel door. Drain the water from the filter housing by pulling the tube out of the clip and unplugging, allow it to run into a bucket while the machine is in spin only mode. This mode is acheived when the washer is first powered on press the spin button until no spin is reached then run. Run in this mode until no water is draining from the tube in the bucket. Keep the tube as low as possible. When water has stopped coming out of the tube turn off the washer and unplug from the wall. This step is important because this resets the fault. Expect some water to come out when you open the filter housing by turning counterclockwise until you can pull the filter from its housing. Clean out your filter, return to housing turning clockwise until seated and recap the tube and place in the holder, refit the cover and plug back into the wall. Fixed. You may also need to lighten the load a bit but I always try full on load anyways. If it fails again just lighten, unplug wait >1 minute then replug and run.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. The ul error code means unbalanced load. I can suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good trouble shooting and repair information on washing machines and other appliances. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
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