Question about Kitchen Appliances - Others
My Chefmate belgian wafflemaker shut off during the third waffle I made. The red light comes on when I plug it in now, but it doesnt get hot.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Belgian Waffle Maker Problem
Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.
Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.
There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.
This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.
You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.
I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.
This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
There seems to be a problem with your thermostat or temp cutout switch if the machine is getting exceptionally hot. This could explain the green light not coming on.
Posted on Jan 26, 2011
Try the Betty Crocker site here:
They have many recipes posted here but am yet to find a site that posts their instruction booklets.
Posted on Apr 25, 2011
I think this was caused by the premature failure of a Chinese thermal fuse; they are poorly made and while the principle is sound (opens if necessary to prevent fire), the components are really poor and most appliances that use a heating element fail without cause due to the lousy quality of those parts. Because of the high levels of heat where these are mounted, they are most often spot-welded in series with the element and cannot be soldered in repair. Try contacting the manufacturer, I'm pretty sure they know of the problem.
Posted on May 28, 2011
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