Question about Samsung Dryers
No continuity thru coil
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot or not heat at all. . If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
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Posted on Dec 13, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: heating element continuity?
Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.
Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
SOURCE: no heat
Check the thermal fuse. It is located just inside the back of the dryer and is usually mounted on the exhaust duct. It is about an inch long. Check it for continuity, If it has none it is bad and must be replaced. Hope this helped and best wishes.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
You need to have 220-240 or so volta ACROSS the two terminals on the element...the 125 can feed across and can be the same leg on both sides...
Check out this tip also..
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
It is dangerous to do but you have to turn dryer on while it is apart and wait for limit to open up, then test. !st make sure all connections are ok. The clips and the nuts all need to be tight. If any look dark or burnt that may be your weak link. If you are sure that everything is else is working ok, a set of high limit switches is not very expensive. The voltage is 220 so if your careful you can test at each junction, but be careful..
Posted on Sep 18, 2010
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