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We have a U-line fridge it isnt getting cold.appears there is an oily substance below motor.

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FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Posted on Dec 27, 2016

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I have a 10 year old GE Monogram refrig. We noticed a small puddle of oily liquid on floor beneath freezer door. It is accumulating about 1 tsp/day.


certain amount of oil is in the compressor motor casing to stop it burning out
it is under the same pressure as the refrigerant

I would say the oil comes from that casing
you could turn the fridge off at the wall
bring the fridge out to get behind it
and degrease the area to see if the leak is severe

if it is..... needs a fridge technician

not sure
check if cost of replacing the motor compressor unit
on a ten year old ge
might be more that fridge is worth



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Nov 10, 2016 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Liquid leaked out know fridge isnt working. model dcb412bls


When you say liquid, are you meaning an oily substance or water. Since it isn't working, I have to assume oily substance which could mean either the cap or freon. If it is the capactor that has blown up then it is worth changing (change the contactor at the same time). If it is the compressor leaking freon, then it is usally not cost effective to change out and recharge the system and would take a professional to do.

Aug 28, 2011 | Danby (DAR604BLS) Refrigerator

1 Answer

Odor emitting fro refrigerator


I wish i did know what exactly the problem could be from. One possible cause of this oily looking substance is that you have a compressor line leak somewhere within the walls of your side by side. you may want to look into your warranty to see if this an be covered if under warranty. there is a product however that is a charcoal based air purifier for fridges it is called fridge aid. and can be purchased at a cheap cost.hope this helps

Thanks

Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

With AC on I get what looks like smoke but it is more like steam thru the vent,on the vent is oily residew but doesn't smell like coolant?


coolant isnt oily.
sometimes white vapour (condensation) may visualy appear when first turning on the air conditioner, and that's normal.
oily residue isnt. no idea what it could be.

Aug 02, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Ice maker stopped working, plus fridge not cold, but freezer o.k.


I would check that fan motor in the freezer section is running. it distributes cold air from freezer into refrig section also if this motor is running the top portion of freezer will not get cold enough to allow ice production. the motor is easy to repl and is mod# specific you should be able to buy one online.

Jan 21, 2009 | Kenmore 64802 Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

PAC L90 leaking oily substance


it leaked all the freon and oil out .
it needs to be vacuumed and oil replenished.
filled with freon.
should only cost you bout 50.give or take
as they use very little freon.
a shrader valve port has to be added to introduce the freon. takes just a few seconds.

May 23, 2008 | DeLonghi Pinguino PACL90 Portable Air...

2 Answers

Fridge leaking oil on the bottom right side


OK, usually if you see an oily substance that you are sure is not from the fridge contents it's oil from the sealed system. When a leak in the sealed system happens the refrigerant gas leaks out and the lubricating oil also leaks out. I'm afraid you may be in this situation. As the refrigerant leaks out the cooling efficientcy drops off quickly and eventually there is no cooling at all. You would have to use a refrigerant leak detector "sniffer" to locate the leak and then have a certified company repair the unit. Sadly, the cost to do a compressor replacement and leak repair is 2/3's or more the cost of a new fridge...

Jan 15, 2007 | Frigidaire GLRS237ZA Side by Side...

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