Question about Heating & Cooling
One side of light switch is white one black so I think they may have used white for black any sugeshions.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Wiring Door jamb switch
I'm going to guide you on how to create what is known as a "switch leg".
1- run a 12-2 w/ground wire to the light fixture from new switch.
2- connect black wire "hot wire" to the shiny bronze tinted terminal on switch.
3- connect the white wire " neutral " to the silver connection on switch.
4- connect the naked copper wire " ground " to the ground terminal on switch
5- Disconnect the two white wires in the junction box from each other.
6- Connect the ground to ground in j-box
7- Connect the black to one of the whites in j-box
8- connect the white to the other white in j-box
9- wire nut and tape all connections
Oh and be sure that you turn off the breaker before you start. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
WARNING: Do not attempt to do this work unless you completely understand the information provided below. If in doubt call an electrician.
Always make sure the power is disconnected from all possible sources before making any connections. Your description of the problem indicates that there may be multiple power wires coming into the same box. In that case local codes may require that the box be partitioned to prevent exposure to voltages up to 220 volts.
You need to determine where each wire goes to know how to connect them together. You cannot rely on color alone. If the power supply runs through the box to the loads then most (but probably not all) of the white wires will be connected together. If the power runs to the load boxes first then none of the white wires in the switch box should be connected together. They are used to run the switched/dimmed power back to the loads (and should be taped to cover the white in the box). In that case each switch has its own power input and they should not be tied together. A wire (could be black or white with black tape) brings power from the load box, gets connected to the input terminal of the switch and the corresponding black wire carries the switched power back to the load. The fan/light switch will have one power in and a switched power out for the fan and another for the light. The 3-way will have one "power" in (or it could be the final power out to the light) and two "carrier wires that connect to the other 3-way switch. If the power supply goes through the switch box then there will be at least 10 wires in that box. In that case see the attached diagram:
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
You should have the black going to 1 breaker, and the white going to an adjacent 2nd breaker.
Check that you have 240 VAC to the thermostat, and that the breakers are fully set.
If you have 240 VAC to the stat, check that 240 VAC is being powered to the heater.
Let me know what you find. (I am assuming the heat strips are good.).
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
Hello. The red and the black are the hot wires. Therefore, connect one of your conductors to the red and the other conductor to the black. Use wirenuts. The bare ground wire should be solidly attached to the new unit's green wire using a wire nut.
PS: please rate my answer. Thank you.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Excellent Reponse"
SOURCE: Bought a Utilitech #0192773 to
Utilitec 0192773 replaces single-pole switch and will not work for 3-way applications.
Open following link for clear wiring and programming steps for Utilitec 0192773
Utilitec can also be tricky to program if you are setting up astro dawn-dusk function.
For others finding this thread, same wiring applies to in-wall programmable timers by GE, Woods, Swilight, Sylvania, Tork, Hagar, UPM, Leviton, Grasslin, Wattstopper, Westek, and Intermatic analog timers. Intermatic battery-operated, Brinks and Aube timers are wired differently since they also work for 3-way applications.
Posted on Jun 05, 2011
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