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I pulled the back off to check for voltage and now get no heat at all. I have 120v at each lead to heating element but do no get 240v when control is turned to bake

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  • Ovens Master
  • 2,595 Answers

I'm Sorry Larry...

I have no idea why your question has remained in answered.

I tried to pull up schematic drawings on your KER?507
and got connected to a PDF site promising a drawing..
I have a COUPLE of life-times (now twice retired) reading
very high level "drawings" on stored program control
systems.. I just ran out of courage when the "site" looks
wonky...

I have old MICRO-Soft everything... but if you know of any drawings ... I'd be happy to look into your trouble..

On oven wit no power (after removing the back... my FIRST GUESS would be a SAFETY INTERLOCK....

As to why you'd have good power & no heat... there are only two general possibilities...

1 - measure across the heating element itself for continuity.

2. After that TEMPORARILY short across HGH-TEMP sensor .out of your control circuit... if the element begins to heat it is the sensor... ELSE... It is the CONTROL BOARD

typically NOT cheap...

but there are REBUILDING SERVICES...

Please let me know if this is still an open question... and IF there is a decent DRAWING I can access.

KITCHENAID does have a (see very bottom)
technical support site... but WHEN I got there with my WIFE'S wine cooler..

They were LESS THAN... no help.

(not a happy KITCHENAID owner)...

(YOU go here... I only have a PC
(and my wife gets surly when I want to use her MACs))....
http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/support/kitchenaid/range/wiring-diagram-4934093


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Posted on Jan 27, 2017

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Will try to help here.. First off.. when you measure 120VAC at each terminal for the heating elements..what are you using as a reference? Ground? Since your stove is probably wired 220VAC, I would expect to see something across the two terminals to the element that isn't line voltage.. meaning, when you turn the controller to a setting, you should see something more than 120VAC across the terminals and the current will be controlled to maintain a heat setting. The burner that has an open element is indendent so that should not factor in. Heating elements are nothing more than a big resistor that generate heat when current flows thru them. Just because you have one leg of power doesn't mean you have current flow thru it and therefore that is where I think your problem is... You may have an open leg ..Check the power coming into the oven and make sure you have 220VAC across the two line voltage terminals.. Be careful ( very careful ) when doing this...
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On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
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