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I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.
First re-thread the machine starting with the upper looper(3), then lower looper(4), then the needles(2,1). If that doesn't fix it, it may be a matter of loosening the needle tension. Lastly slowly turn the handwheel and see where the loopers cross. The upper looper should come in just behind the scarf of the lower looper without any contact on the forward motion. Otherwise Your needlebar height could be off. Timing a serger is a very precise process and making adjustments could throw it out even further.
The 335 has a two thread chain stitch (stitch type 401), and the overlock side (right needle side), is a three thread plain overlock. If you are describing the plain overlock as the problem, I would first suggest the following in re-threading:
1. Thread the upper looper
2. Thread the lower looper
3. Thread the needle last (important)
If the needle threaded, you cannot re-thread the lower looper without breaking the thread.
In order to thread the lower looper, the lower looper must pass by the needle thus picking up the needle thread. So, instead of threading the lower looper thread underneath the needle thread, the looper would be threaded on top and cannot sew without breaking the thread.
Make sure that the threads are bedded between the tension disks. Check this by stretching the thread fore and aft of the tension disks as well as visually noting that the threads are not accidentally threaded behind the disks. You can also loosen the tension disks when threading so as to allow the threads to bed deeply between the disks.
Please reply with your observations.
are you using a wire threader or tweezers to thread up? also some overlockers have a slide mechanisim on the looper so you can get to the eyelet, not familiar with this model but your manual should show the threading method. I usually turn the flywheel so the lower looper is all the way to the left and thread up the lower thread carrier, then turn flywheel again to move it to the right, then using the wire threader, I hook the thread from the left and bring it over to the right side, then thread up the looper eye. Hope that makes sense to you
tension on an Elna L4 overlocker (or serger in USA) is controlled with the four dials on the front of the machine, an overlocker has a tension dial for each thread (usually 3, 4 or 5) and the mid range setting will be 5 on each dial. It is critical to lift the thread pole to its maximum height and follow the threading diagram correctly taking the thread from the cone, through the thread eyelets on the pole, then usually a thread carrier on top of the machine, down and around the tension dial, then usually through another couple of thread carriers until reaching the needle or loopers. Many overlockers will have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover and will use colour coding on the components so you can see where each thread goes.
Many things can cause the thread to break on a serger. Timing, position of the thread guides, poor thread, and improper tension. One common error is the failure to thread it in the proper order. If the needle are threaded before the lower looper they will cut your looper thread.
Overlockers and or Sergers are ALWAYS threaded the same way. Upper looper, Lower looper, right needle, left needle. If you have a model number for your Juki we might be able to find you more information.
The best way to figure out tension problems is to thread each thread in a different color so you can determine which thread is giving you problems.
These machines can be frustrating and EVERY time the thread breaks you MUST start the threading problem from the beginning... upper looper, lower looper, right needle left needle.
Then it's one of two things. First try setting your lower looper tension on 3 and see if that works. If not set it back on 4 and cut ALL your threads and re-thread the machine STARTING with the UPPER looper, then the lower looper, then the right needle, last the left needle if you're sewing a 4 thread overlock stitch. Make sure the threads aren't twisted in the thread guide. Make sure the lower looper thread is OVER the elbow on the upper looper and over the upper looper thread. Let me know if this works. We'll work until we get it fixed!