Question about Speed Queen Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: WASHER NOT AGITATING OR WASHING
is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing
the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid
switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand
side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece
called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken
off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid
switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing
near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can
be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case,
if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate,
but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to
attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to
replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
Have you removed the front panel?
If not remove front panel two screws 5/16 on bottom
Start the washer in a cycle. look with a flash lite and look for leak.
It maybe the rubber boot.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
I will also need model number, because a AWS52NW is a top loader model number not a front loader.
Posted on Jul 29, 2008
SOURCE: washer won't spin
press in clips each corner with putty knife and lift top remove screws bottom front panel slide panel down and off ..locate pump. turn washer to spin and switch on if faint hum felt at pump more than likely plugged with something if pump is running fine ck for something in drain lines..most washers i would say lid switch but on those i believe if switch was bad wouldn't aditate either ck by raising lid ..if agitates with lid raised ck lid switch if not switch ok
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
The water level is controlled by the pressure switch. It will be located behind the load level selector knob inside the operator console. The way MOST pressure switches are designed, they will have an electrical connector plug and a rubber hose attached. Unplug the washer and remove the back panel of the console and verify if the plastic air hose is still attached to the switch. It is common for this hose to fall off over time due to vibration or develop cracks. If the hose is not attached, the pressure switch will not detect the change in pressure from the wash tub as it fills and the water will not shut off. The tub will continue to fill until it overflows. The same is true if you have a bad electrical connection. Remove the connector and check the terminals to make sure they are clean. If any of these preliminary checks do not work, replace the pressure switch. If your washer is not configured this way, please post back with your model number so I can attempt to verify. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 15, 2009
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