Where can i source this belt?

Follow th emanufactors maintenance gulde that came with the car or:



It\'s easy to check the belt for signs of premature wear -- just locate it in the engine bay (usually under a plastic or metal shield that should be easy to remove) and check it for drying, fraying and discoloration.

The belt itself is inexpensive, probably costing less than $20 at an auto parts store. Your mechanic will probably charge several hundred dollars (or more) for a belt replacement service, though. Those hours spent dismantling and reassembling the engine bay add up quickly.

You can replace the timing belt yourself if you have access to the necessary equipment. In some cars, it\'s a straightforward procedure -- remove the engine covers and shrouds, line up the camshaft and crankshaft, slip off the old belt, and slip on the new one. Sometimes, though, it\'s a lot more complicated. For example, the timing belt might loop through a motor mount, in which case the mount would need to be removed to access the belt. You\'d need an engine hoist or stand to safely remove and replace the mount [source:Juran].

Keep in mind that an error in this job, such as improperly turning the engine by hand or failing to coordinate the shafts, will cause the same damage as a snapped belt. Make sure you understand the procedure before getting started.

source:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/car-part-longevity/timing-belt-last.htm

old post
answer is :
same as Isuzu Impulse
4XE1
my guess would be for 90. the single cam version
the best source of data is alldata.com
or on the storm forums.
some links here.
http://www.fixkick.com/storm.html

old post but, rare cars. i help on rare.

First you need to find the source that is causing noise. On cold weather is very normal engine belts or belts idle pulley bearings or belt tension-er to make noise, especially when they are old. Also power steering pump too especially if the oil is very old.

No some of these toyotsa batteries are a funny shape compared to the standard aftermarket ones so when i get this sort of problem i scavange my scrap/junk pile and make one depending on what type i need ,a few bits orf metal rod with something welded on works wonders .Just like the old days 40yrs ago on fleet truck repairs with bedford TK and ford traders or the old scalmmels

either tighten or change the belt if it looks damaged. a burnt bearing could be at fault, with the old belt on, mix some liquid soap with water, keep your face away or wear goggles, and pour the mix onto the belt at the pulleys like the alternator one, and you will find out that it stops squealing and you have found the source of the sound. fix whatever is broken and you won't have to raise you radio as much when you drive.
Enjoy !

pull wrist tight on a 38th drive rachet ,thats about right or 20nm according to my fancy autodata book ,never used a torque wrench on anything in 40yrs of being a fitter ,i must be a cowboy then musnt i

internal fault in the heater relay timer box ,nice motor though a transit ,used to work on the assembly line 40yrs ago .

keep trying and it will come ,as for the torque then just tight with a 3/8 drive socket set will suffice ,been fixing motors for 40yrs and never use a torque wrench,have one in case a customer is around ------

power to the connectors ?? then you have a dirty earth connection ,.Says i running around room screaming like a demented demon ,RELAYS RELAYS why do the americans shout relay all the time ,apart from the odd flasher relay i have never had a problem with a relay in 40yrs of fixing cars and trucks .Unless they are made in china i suppose

what is an instament clust?????this is a new technical term i think as after 40yrs in motor trade i must be getting old and senile