Question about Echo Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the fuel lines for breaks. When they get old, they become brittle.
If this doesn't work, you will need to clean the carburetor. Disassemble the carb. and spray with carb. cleaner. Use a Den Tek Brush,(http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152), to clean the small portals in the carb. Make sure the small screen is free of debris. Reassemble and start.
If neither one of these solutions work then you will need to buy a carb. kit and replace all appropriate parts.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
A 50:1 ratio with 89 Octane fuel can be used in all ECHO 2-stroke
equipment, provided the oil is ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD
certified. ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD oil must be used
with a mid-grade (89 octane) or premium gasoline in all 1997 and newer engines.
A 50:1 Ratio = 1 US Gal. 89 Octane + 2.6 fl. oz. ECHO POWER BLEND OIL
Echo Power Blend Universal 2-Stroke Oil can be used in all of our 2-cycle air-cooled equipment ever made. You may also use this oil in any other brand of 2-cycle air cooled equipment, but it should always be mixed at the 50:1 ratio whether or not it was a 32:1 or 16:1 etc. machine. This oil is the highest quality 2-cycle oil on the market today. There is no need to have more than 1 tank of fuel for your 2-cycle equipment any more.
Use only fresh gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89 through 93 (mid-grade to premium) at all times. The gasoline suppliers blend mid-grade and premium gasoline with greater amounts of detergents and anti-oxidizing additives to keep the engines clean. Lack of these detergents and additives in a 2-stroke engine will cause a heavy build-up of varnish and gum deposits on the piston surface and ring grooves. Regular unleaded 87 octane or lower gasoline may not contain enough of the detergent additives that are needed in a 2-stroke engine to keep varnish, gum, and tar deposits from forming. Use of 87 octane fuel may shorten the life of the engine.
ALL TWO-STROKE OILS ARE NOT EQUAL!
ECHO POWER BLEND OIL, is manufactured exclusively for ECHO, Inc. and meets the (ISO) International Standards Organizations highest performance rating of ISO-L-EGD for Air Cooled 2 Stroke oils and is JASO M345 FC/FD REGISTERED. Years of research and testing have resulted in an oil that is fully compatible with fuels containing 10% ethanol and can be used in all air - cooled, outdoor power equipment 2-Stroke engines at 50:1 ratio. ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD rated oils must be used with a mid-grade (89 octane) or premium gasoline in all 1997 and newer engines. Always look for the JASO M345 FC/FD square logo and registration number to ensure you are using the highest quality 2-stroke oil for your ECHO product.
ECHO POWER BLEND OIL is made for high revving, (7,000 RPM and up) air-cooled 2-stroke engines that are E.P.A. and C.A.R.B. emissions certified. Make sure the oil has a EGD and FC/FD certification. Oils that meet ISO, EGA/EGB/EGC and JASO FA and FB are of lesser quality, designed for applications such as water-cooled boat engines, low RPM lawnmower engines, or snowmobile engines and should not be used in ECHO Engines. Prior to 1997, oils were not manufactured to these higher standards. Some or most of the oils were simply 30 or 40 weight 4-stroke engine oil with minimum amounts of additives. ECHO POWER BLEND OIL is the highest quality 2-Stroke oil available and will provide maximum protection against engine wear and carbon buildup.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
the only thing left is the coil that is inside the cover right next to the flywheel with a gap of 10 thousand of a inch a business card will work but a new coil is almost thr price of a new trimmer unless you have a used one
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for the help. We did look at the coil. Got about 30 volts out of it when we pulled the starter. I hope that means it's OK."
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Aug 15, 2011
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