Question about Refrigerators
That clicking sound is probably the overload breaker cutting off the power to the compressor for some reason. It clicks in because it senses not enough cooling but clicks back off after a few seconds because of overload on the compressor for some reason. It tries over-and-over.
Your compressor has failed in some way or the expansion valve for the coolant is not releasing the pressure as designed. This causes high back pressure on the compressor and it can't push against it, so it stalls and draws high current until the safety breaker kicks out.
I'm wondering, does it not cool at all or is it cooling a little but not near enough?
Posted on Dec 08, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Dave, what you are hearing is the overload kicking out on the compressor. It's one of two things, either the compressor is failing or PTC (overload, relay) is going bad. I haven't seen too many PTC's fail on Frigidaire, but I have seen a lot of compressors failing. Your refrigerator will have a 5 year warranty, parts and labor if the compressor is at fault. You would have to do some tests on the compressor to determine which one is at fault. If you have a clamp on ammeter you can see how many amps the compressor is drawing during start and run. The compressor should have a label on it with the amperage information. You could just replace the PTC, part number 218721119 and see if the problem goes away but you could be throwing away money here if the compressor is the problem. With out being there, my guess would be the compressor itself. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Dec 09, 2006
The compressor may not have to be changed it could be the relay that is bad, not properly starting the compressor. The relay is attached to the compressor where the wires go to it. Remove it, Shake it, If it sounds like little rocks are inside (it rattles) than it is bad. Let me know what you find
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
the exach reason for this problem is listed here please know the problem
Compressor won't run or it is "clicking' on and off: This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install a replacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called a yoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
SOURCE: Maytag Fridge MTB2156GEW Won't cool. Change thermostat today and ran it for four hours. Frige was warm after. There is a clicking noise every 2 to 5 minutes from the back of the fridge. I think it is
Yes you have a bad relay on your compressor.Remove the rear panel and take off the relay on the compressor shake it.If it sounds fried then you need to order new on .Just give your model# to your local parts depot and ask them to order you a new compressor relay hope i fixya:)
Posted on May 20, 2009
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