Question about Lakewood Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi Spybotics. I have the same problem and I traced mine down to a burned out over-heat fuse link. Check out my recent post. My guess is that you are having the same problem as me. It's not hard to tell - just take off the rear panel and test the link (looks like a small resistor in line with the element) with an ohm meter. Open circuit means burned out fuse link. DO NOT bypass the link, as an extreme fire hazard will exist without it.
Posted on Apr 22, 2007
SOURCE: lakewood 7096 heater
Some of the newer models have a thermal fuse which may be blown. It doesn't look like a normal fuse at all. It is similar to a transistor in looks and should have continuity from one end to the other. It will be tied in to the incoming power cord inside the heater, and may be covered with rubber coating within the wire. It will look different when you notice it. Sometimes its too far down inside where the heat causes it to blow prematurely. The purpose is to cut the power to the unit in case it overheats. You can get one at radio shack for less than a couple of bucks. The older models don't normally have one, but I would suggest you put one in it if that's the case.
Posted on Jan 01, 2008
Follow up to my post of 13 January. Out of desperation, I took the heater apart and determined that an electrical fuse-like thermal overload device had opened on the neutral side of the feed to the heating element thus rendering the unit non-working. This device is wrapped in a sheath around the underside of the heating element's electrical connections where the element enters the radiator's core. If the element exceeds the rated temperature it apparently "blows" or electrically opens much like a fuse. The lights still come on but no electricity is getting to the element. When I removed this from the circuit, the the unit began making heat. Apparently, when the heater is on full (both switches on for the full 1,500 watts) the core temperature gets too high. So, I now use my heater on only the 900 watt setting and it's putting out plenty of heat. Today's high is 2F and the room is comfortable. I've no doubt the manufacturer would not condone this modification and I have no intention of turning my modified heater back on "HIGH." Therefore I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are competent in electrical and soldering work and are sure you won't overheat the unit. Having said that Lakewood clearly has either a design flaw or a bad batch of heater elements or overload protectors out there. When I have time, I'm planning to send my defective protector back to them with a letter. But given that they never responded to my e-mail to their customer service don't expect much in the way of a reply. As they say on TV, don't try this at home.
Posted on Jan 31, 2008
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