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No error codes but oven is severely overheating. Set to 200 bake. Shut off after 10 minutes. Went to set to 425 and oven showed temp of 383 (how when it was set to 200?!?!) Scared for our lives here!!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Model JTP15 oven shows F3 error code

I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken

Posted on Sep 24, 2007

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: maytag mgr5870 not baking correctly

hi there,

sounds like the TOD may be at fault. can you supply me with the model # on your stove please?

as far as the popping sound, that would the spark module.

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: wont heat past 200 degres

When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.

You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: oven will not heat on bake.

does the ignitor glow? if it does and the burner does not fire within 30-60 sec. replace it it is weak .if the ignitor does not come on at all youll need to check for voltage at the ignitor when the bake circut is on.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken

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