Question about Vacuums

Open Question

How do I replace the drive belt not a Neato robotic vacuum?

I removed all of the screws but can not remove the housing cover.

Posted by on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
reddevil6
  • 1673 Answers

SOURCE: vacuum base removal-kenmore whispertone 300

Most of these you have to take off the cover on the back end where the cover retrack button is. Usually it has a catch, 2 on each side, use a screw driver, pry up near each corner to release it, then you can get to the cover over the moter and cord reel. Remove the 2 screw and put up and out.

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

Ad
chrispurs1
  • 372 Answers

SOURCE: Dyson DC07 drive belt replacement

Hi.

The other end of the drive belt the part you cant see goes to a clutch.
The clutch unit has 2 belts one is clutch to motor the second is clutch to brush roller.
You obviously look after your machine because you say you have had no problems with belts or clutch for 5 years.
Both belts & clutch can be worked on but its alot to explain so look at this site for service manuals.
http://dysonmanuals.llc.nu/

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

  • 118 Answers

SOURCE: Removing kenmore vacuum Canister motor cover model 116-27312790

What you need to do is take it apart and look for any carpet peices dug up in there preventing the motor to spin. Also go look for another filter for it and if you google it you can probably get instructions or if you still have the book.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How do you put a Hoover runabout belt on vacuum

I found this on another site and it worked for me. RonL

Looking at the brush, remove the two screws from the black plate holding the brush. There are two clips that holds this plate once you remove the screws. This should be easy to remove with a flat type screw driver. Now is the tricky part to remove the top cover of the vacuum so you can access the compartment to put the belt on. The whole top part of this vacuum comes off. If you look above the part where black plate was, there are two more clips on the top left and top right hand corner. These two hold one end of the top cover. It is not as simple as pushing the clip to one end to slide out. You have to find a gap between the edge of top cover and bottom structure(right next to each clip) and shove the flat screw driver in and push the top cover away from the bottom structure and push down the top cover. You will notice that there are invisible hinges between the two which locks in the top cover.

Do the same procedure for the bottom right and left edges(right next to each end of the brush) of the vacuum and separate the two(bottom structure and top cover) out using the flat type screw driver..

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need to replace power cord and can't find how to open canister to replace

I had the same problem and could not find the other screws. You need to pry off the power cord retraction button, you will find two more screws under there. It's pretty easy after that!!!!

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

My neato signature xv says the brush is stuck. I have removed the ends and and there is nothing in the brush. The brush moves freely in the housing. It has been repaired twice for the same problem


Have you checked the belt to see if there is any damage, or if it has come loose? There is diagnostic software created by a Neato user that is available for download at robotreviews [dot] com - in the Neato forum. With this software (which runs on a PC while connected to the Neato via USB cable) you may be able to find the root cause.

Mar 01, 2017 | Neato Vacuums

Tip

How To Replace The Thermal Protector on Hoover Windtunnel Uprights



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover Self-Propelled WindTunnel Bagless...

Tip

How To Replace The Thermal Overload Switch on Hoover Windtunnel Uprights



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover Ultra U6430-900 WindTunnel Bagged...

2 Answers

My Neato XV-12 runs for only a few seconds and stop. The message says, please dust me off I cant see. I have dust and cleaned my neato and it still says the same thing. How do I fix this problem?


Hi Guys
I've fully dismantled my Neato XV-21 to locate the source of the "can't see" problem. (And also replaced a tight wheel Motor causing a "something is caught in my right wheel" message)
There several screws underneath the Neato XV-21 that must be undone to allow the top to be separated. A bit of a pain just to get into the visual sensor area. But not too hard with an electric screwdriver.
There is a Laser device & a Photo sensor mounted to a black plastic rotating wheel which is covered by a black cap with 2 holes in it. One hole for laser beam to exit & one to pick up return laser light return data. They are both rotated by a motor & pulley via a rubber "o" ring which could slip, break or get hairs caught in it.
These could be the source of problems. Once mine was cleaned & checked I had no more problems. Then the wheel motor got tight. Replacing the motor fixed the problem. This requires hoping the Motor Gear Box assembly out by poping the pivot shaft out of it's plastic holder. Then disconnect the spring & cable connector. But you bust be prepared to carefully remove the magnet off the motor shaft (vice & 2 flat blade screw drivers) then unsolder the small PCB at 2 points. With practice (twice) I can now replace a motor in 20-30 minutes.
Hope this Helps some Neato Users out there
Cheers
Trevor

neato-xv-12-runs-only-few-seconds-stop-qnpe3nojpvl4vx0tieerofmg-2-0.png Wheel Motors Here
Wheel and brush motor for Neato XV 11 XV 12 XV 14 XV 15 XV 21 XV Signature...

Apr 05, 2015 | Neato Robotics XV-12 Vacuum System - White

1 Answer

How do I change the belt


start by studying the bottom of the unit . the cover needs to be removed to get to the belt .whatever you remove must be replaced in the reverse when putting back together .I like taking pictures as I go on something I have never done before .

Jan 05, 2015 | Neato Vacuums

Tip

Replacing The Thermal Reset Switch on Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled Vacuums



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover U6630-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

Tip

How To Repair Thermal Switch Hoover Windtunnel Upright



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

2 Answers

Neato vacuum display will not come on.


Here is a video showing a quick temporary fix and the full fix showing the change of all the electrolytic capacitors.

Jul 04, 2014 | Neato XV11 Vacuum

1 Answer

Why does my neato xv-12 keeps saying "put me on the floor" but it is and I cannot turn off


There are sensors in the wheel housing that let Neato know whether it is being held (wheels protruding from the frame), or whether it is on the floor (wheels tucked into the frame). If those sensors are not working, you will need to have the unit serviced (if under warranty), or you can look up information on how to correct the problem yourself (if out of warranty). This information can generally be found by searching the Neato Robotics forum at:
RobotReviews com

May 11, 2014 | Neato Vacuums

1 Answer

Where can i buy replacement side brushes on line for x500 robot vacuum


Try a site called www.ereplacementparts.com. They carry parts for stuff I never heard of.

Nov 12, 2013 | Neato Robotics Neato XV-21 Pet & Allergy...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Vacuums Logo

Related Topics:

56 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Vacuums Experts

AskDyson
AskDyson

Level 3 Expert

2572 Answers

Les Dickinson
Les Dickinson

Level 3 Expert

18402 Answers

D. Floyd Kolb
D. Floyd Kolb

Level 3 Expert

43501 Answers

Are you a Vacuum Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...