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Dryer runs but will not heat. Exhaust is clear. Gas supply is confirmed.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • tqs335 Jul 20, 2009

    Actually, I did refer to the make andf model in my original request but the system seemed more concerned with getting my credit card info and that information got lost.

    It is a frigidare FGR211AS2.

    I have had the back panel off and cannot actually see the burner from there. there is no front acess panel, which is where the burner assembly appears to be. Usually, when working properly, there is an audible click, such as a relay closing, then the sound of the flame igniting, just after you start the dryer. This is not happening now.



    Thank you,

    Terry

  • tqs335 Jul 20, 2009

    Hi.

    I have removed the front of the dryer and have clear access to the burner assy. I do not see anything that resembles a fuse. Any clues? I, like most home repair customers, would like to replace something as simple as a fuse of course.

    I do not see the high limit switch anywhere. Could it be located elsewhere. Also, are there any other components on my specific dryer that I should be looking for that would prevent ignition? Please consult your schematic.

    Thank again.

    Terry

  • tqs335 Jul 20, 2009

    OK, I will check that part. Is there supposed to be a voltage value or am I just looking for pass through conductivity?

    Also, please try to find a picture of the ignitor. Im not sure which component it actually is and where and how I make the test. I suspect it the most as the unit has no ignition at all.

    The only coils I see are on top of the ignitor assembly and are connected with a moldex plug, so I am not sure how I would check them.

    Also, the part you picture appears to be mounted on the blower housing in the front. Could this be it? It is connected to two orange wires.

    You didnt mention it, but I assume there are no fuses, right?

    Finally, I can send a picture of the entire burner/ignitor assembly if you like.

    Thanks,

    Terry

  • tqs335 Jul 21, 2009

    Hi.

    I just sent pictures to your e mail.

    Look forward to your response.

    Please let me know which component is most likekly to be the problem in your opinion. I will start there.



    Thank you,

    Terry

  • tqs335 Jul 21, 2009

    OK. A lot to absorb.

    I just tested the little sensor near the back of the drum, which I believe is the safety heat sensor (?) and my meter, set to the cont. setting is showing zeros. Is this correct?

    I can rule out the first part of the testing as the ignitor never comes on nor does the relay sound happen as it used to just before flame ignition, which was clearly audible.

    I will try the other tests as you described, but I cant see the flame or ignitor glow under any circumstances. I have no desire to remove the belt and drum.

    Thanks,

    Terry

  • tqs335 Jul 21, 2009

    Hi,

    I wasnt aware that the wires had to be disconnected prior to testing, so I took them off and tested again. Same reading, 00.0 on my meter. What would it read if the switch was good? The dryer is not plugged in of course.

    Any recommendations on where to get the part?



    Thanks.

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  • Master
  • 744 Answers

Hello there are several reasons for this problem. In the absence of model/make I will attempt to give you some common problems on common makes/models. Here is a list of possible causes:

  1. Saftey valve coils
  2. Ignitor
  3. Thermal fuse
  4. High Limit thermostat
  5. Light sensor
The first one the gas saftey coils are located on the top of the valve normally located in the front of your machine. remove the peep hole or panel on the front lower part of your dryer. If ignitor lights and gas cycles on for a short period and then shuts off your problem is going to be with the coils. You should replace them. This is what they normally look like depending on make/model. Dryer runs but will not - 4f5ef23.jpg The next would be the ignitor, if it is lighting but no gas check the color when it lights..if it is orange or red in color as it lights it's old replace it..should be brillient yellow and you should not be able to look at it for long. if ignitor does not work at all check other components listed before replacing. Next item to check would be the thermal fuse and high limit thermostats these would cause a shut down on the gas but drum would normally still turn just no heat, using a multi meter you should check them for condinuity, if no condinuity replace. here is what they generally look like. b61ee71.jpg 739e09c.jpg Remember you did not supply make or model so I'm inclding pictures of parts that are the most common. The next item would be the light sensor located normally on the outside of the tube where valve and nozzle are located. Good Luck!!! If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 8 more comments 
  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    Oh ok your going to have to access the burner assy from the front, usually if you slot a putty knife under the front top lip about 3 inches in from each end and push you will be able to release the clips holding the top of the dryer in place. lift the top and should be 2 screws holding front panel in place. remove those and you should be able to remove front panel. sounds like from your comment of no flame it's going to be the thermal fuse which will be located on the burner assy. In the mean time I will pull up a schmatic of your model and will comment further if I find anything of value to comment :)

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    Hello again, I just checked the scmatic for this model and it does access from the front with a putty knife as discribed in my last post, Once you have the front off test the parts as stated in my first comment. Thanks

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    If i remember correctly once you have lifter the top off the dryer you will find the high limit stat ot the top rear of the drum, you should test this for condinuity and replace if it is bad, please feel free to comment again if i can assist you any further. Mike

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    Hi terry give me a few minutes to grab some pictures and post them and thier location.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    Hello again according to the scmatic for this machine this is what the high-limit is going to look like and it is located at the rear of the machine on the drum holder.



    you should locate this part and check it for condinuity, also check the ignitor for condinuity. The pictures i gave before have no relevace to this machine except for the coils. I only put them in before i had make/model.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 20, 2009

    Hi again, Let me give you a link to the schmatic of your machine, this might help you with pictures of the parts and also with there location. Yes you are not testing for voltage you are testing for condinuity on the ohms setting on your meter. http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelS...

    The part you mentioned is going to be the thermostat, if you look on the link i just gave you it will show you where to locate the safty thermostat as they call it and also where the ingniter is and what it looks like.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 21, 2009

    sorry just noticed the reference to sending picture...sure send one to mgprice@rochester.rr.com also lift the lid up lean over and take a picture of behind the drum just past the belt. Thanks :)

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 21, 2009

    Hello again, Ok here are the possibilitys. If you were hearing a clunk followed by the flame igniting for a short time when you first ran the machine and then the flame stopped and did not turn back on your coils are going to be bad you should replace them. If your igniter is lighting but there is no gas there are 1 of 2 problems, either the igniter is bad or the flame sensor is bad. To check this look at the glow on the ignitor, if it's orange and the glow is not even replace the igniter it should be brillient yellow and should be hard to look at, You can also pull the wire harness from the ignitor and check the 2 wires leading to the ignitor with an ohms meter, if there is no condinuity replace it. If the igniter looks good the next thing to check is the flame sensor, this is mounted at the side of the tube where the flame burns. Pull the two wires off and check with an ohms meter. If you don't have condinuity it's bad replace it. According to the scmatic there should be a plastic plug about 1x1 inches in the front bottom left about 12 inches from the side and bottom you should be able to look through this by pulling it out with a screw driver to see if the igniter is working.If you dont have a "peep hole" You should be able to check to see if the igniter is working by removing the belt and then removing the drum, plug the machine back in and run it to see if the igniter comes on. If all these parts look good then another possibility is the safety fuse, According to the schmatic of your machine you should lift the lid/top of the dryer up and lean it back, look at where the rear of the drum intersects with the back of the machine and to the right around the 2 o'clock postition there should be 2 wires going into it. Pull both wires out and check with an ohms meter, if you don't have condinuity replace it. The last cause would be the Control thermostat. There will be 2 big wires and 2 little wires going into it. remove the wires and check the terminals where you took the 2 large wires with an ohms meter. If you dont have condinuity on those terminals replace it. if you do have condinuity check the 2 terminals you pulled the small wires from, you should have no condinuity...if you do have a reading on the 2 small terminals replace it. Well that's it those are all the components that cause a dryer to stop heating. I would check them one at a time and if you have any questions comment back to me :)

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 21, 2009

    Hi again, if you have no condinuity (your showing no reading) on the saftey thermostat, you just found your problem :) Just be sure you removed the wires prior to testing and had a godd connection with your probes to your ohms meter, if still no reading you solved it!

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jul 21, 2009

    Hi you should get a strong tone or reading when you are on ohms setting on your meter. You dont have a reading so the thermostat is bad, this part is basically a fuse (thermal) gets too hot blows out, 95 percent of the time there is no real reason why it blows. the other 5% is because there is a blockage in the venting. You can purchase the part at www.repairclinic.com or from a local aplliance parts store. Mike

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