Question about Fisher and Paykel Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
My oven door stays locked , when I press the clear button I get F1?
I hold the clear button for a few seconds and still nothing.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
SOURCE: oven door locked - jenn air
My Jenn-Air double oven locked after a clean cycle. My model (JJW8630) has a series of slots cut in the top of the door. Take a piece of stiff wire, coat hanger, and bend a right angle about 1/2 inch at the end, feed the wire into the 3rd or 4th slot from the center on the right hand side. Turn the wire so that the bent piece is on the top and push the wire so it engages the lever which latches the door shut, it is spring loaded and moves easily.
Once the door was opened, I removed the temperature sensor, held by 2 screws, from the top of the oven and eased the wire out to get to the connector. The faulty sensor was reading 4.2 k, at room temperature it should be just over 1k, while waiting for a new sensor to arrive I stuck in a 1k resistor, ex Radio Shack, so the fan stops running and the door latch can be retracted by closing the oven door, or press the switch on the top right of the door opening.
My replacement part was ordered on line for less than 1/2 the official quoted price.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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