Question about KitchenAid Architect® KEMS308S Electric Oven
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: OVEN will not heat
After reading the above, here is how I fixed my KEBS177DSS9
I pulled out the wall oven from the cabnet. Took off the back tin panel about 10 tin screws. Follow the wire from both heating elements. They are both connected to a thermo fuse. When using the self clean feature this fuse protects the oven from over heating and starting a fire. I put a jumper wire from the hot lead on the left and connected it to the 2 leads on the right side. I turned the power back on and turn the oven on to bake at 350 degrees. Yep It worked like a charm. I bypassed the thermal fuse and used the oven, until the new thermal fuse was ordered. If you have any questions about this fix email me at firstname.lastname@example.org Good luck
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what they would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day of frustration I decided to tackle the problem myself.
The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!
The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.
This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!
For about $50 and a little work you will save yourself from $150 to $250. Not to mention the repairmen won't have a clue as to what the problem is or who will attempt to sell you a new front panel or perform other unnecessary work.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
There is a overload thermostat on the rear of the oven that will have to be replaced.
Self cleaning features are not recommended by most appliance technicians.
Self cleaning causes parts to fail often.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
SOURCE: OVEN will not heat
KitchenAid KEBC107KSS does not heat hot enough and does not heat evenly. When the temperature is dialed higher, it burns the cookies. When the convection fan is on, it has a 'cooling effect' so the temperature never reaches the proper level. Is this problem repairable? Or is this a thermostat issue? Thank you for your help!
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
it sounds exactly like an ignitor, if u want the original ka part u will pay more,, you could use a 12400035 ignitor, or a sgr403, depends if its round or flat, go to repairclinic.com and enter those part numbers in to see pictures of those, or look up a ka ignitor and compare prices. hope this helps let me know whut u think
Posted on Feb 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 17, 2016 | KitchenAid 27 in. Built-in...
Jan 24, 2014 | KitchenAid Architect II KEMS308S 30"...
Sep 05, 2011 | Whirlpool Ovens
May 19, 2011 | KitchenAid 27 in. Built-in...
Jan 01, 2018 | KitchenAid Architect® KEMS308S Electric...
Nov 04, 2010 | Hotpoint SY36 Style Line Stainless Steel...
Jun 06, 2010 | KitchenAid 27 in. Built-in...
Sep 07, 2009 | KitchenAid Architect® KEMS308SSS Stainless...
Mar 17, 2009 | Ovens
Aug 27, 2008 | KitchenAid Architect® KEMS308SSS Stainless...
79 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: