Question about Ryobi Garden
Blocked exhaust system, not correct oil/fuel ratio mix, dirty /blocked air cooling fins around the cylinder /head from saw dust
Posted on Dec 04, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is usually just jammed, when you go out too far. Ifyou take the recoil starter off or loose , sometimes it goes back in on it own. If not ,carefully disassemble it and see if the recoil spring is broken.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
SOURCE: ryobi 40cc chainsaw
Have you checked for spark? Sounds as though your ignition module has quit.
Remove the plug, connect a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins, Switch the ignition on, take it into a dark room and pull the starter. You should see a spark at the tip of the plug. HTH
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
1) check oil supply holes in the bar
2) With the bar removed, run the engine for 30 seconds, does oil come out of the side of the saw.
3) If no oil on the side of the saw, inspect the clutch drive spring and worm gear on oil pump shaft
Outboard drums (drums on the outside of the clutch) are held on by a nut or e-clip.
Inboard drums are held on by the clutch which is threaded onto the crankshaft. And there is the challange.
***NOTE all chain saw clutches have LEFT hand threads, so, rightey loosey, lefty tightey. (just backwards from everything else)
*** NOTE #2: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN
this will most certainly shear the flywheel key or damage the flywheel !!!!! (after 35 years, you can ask me how I know that, LOL)
1) Use a piston stop to hold piston from moving: THIS IS A MUST !!!
Ok, so you do not have one, let's make one.
a) remove the spark plug
b) insert a piece of recoil rope into the cylinder hole, leaving a tail to remove it by. (rope, large shoe string, anything that is soft, that is aprox 1/4 to 5/16 in diameter to place into the spark plug hole to help the piston to stop it's travel by filling up the empty space. Just make sure you can remove it later)
c) secure the saw (extra set of hands may be needed) and with a suitable wrench on the clutch center, rotate the clutch to the right until piston comes to a stop. With a hammer, tap the wrench to aid in rotation. This can be very difficult, and may take several taps.
d) after removed, inspect and grease the drum bearing before re-assemlby.
e) upon re-assembly of clutch, tighten by hand only, NO hammer required. The force of the chain will tighten the clutch.
f) remove the rope, and re-install the spark plug.
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
'No compression' usually means serious mechanical problems with the piston/rings, but if this unit has a compression release, then it may be 'set' which reduces compression considerably until the engine fires. Try putting some fuel mix into the cylinder head spark plug hole and reinstall the plug. If it runs for a few seconds, then look into the fuel delivery system (did the compression increase?). Check that the carburetor is bolted tightly to the engine and the fuel lines are intact. Make sure the choke will close all the way and the throttle opens all the way. Make sure that the primer bulb fills with fuel after several pumps. Assuming that the engine ran properly for the people that 'reconditioned' the saw, this unit should not be giving you problems like this.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
The engine case needs to be removed to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Check the module pole gap to the flywheel magnets with a thin business card for a gauge. If the gap is excessive, that can give a weak spark. If the gap appears to be correct, then it is probably time for a new ignition module. Make sure the spark plug is gapped at 0.020" before condemning the module. The spark should be blue and snappy. Check it in a dark area. Hope this helps!
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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