Sounds like a bad heat relay. If you are brave, turn breaker off, open cabinet and visually inspect wiring. Normally your white wire is the 24 volts that energizes a relay or contactor for yoyr heater. If there is no 24 volts present at relay and heat is still on, obviously bad relay.
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if u can run it on delicate or fluff cycle with cool air more than likely its ur cycling thermostat or the hi limit thermostat going defective test it with a meter for ohms..
1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.
2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.
Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot or not heat at all. . If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE? SHOULD SHOW OHMS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE
its wired up wrong somewhere try to bypass the thermostat wires at the unit and confirm the unit works
then youll know more
other than this i would consult the installation guide and user manual first ...!!! get them from the makers site some makers manuals are not on the general google type search but readily available from the makers site
Sounds like the heat anticipator in your thermostat is either bad or out of adjustment. Turn of the furnace power. Remove the thermostat wires from the thermostat. Turn the power back on. Connect the white and red wires together. The furnace should start up. Let it run a couple of minutes. Then disconnect the wires. The burners should shut off immediately. The blower will continue to run for 60 to 360 seconds then shut off. If this happens replace your thermostat. If the burners continue to burn, then your problem is either the furnace or the thermostat wires.
Sounds like the contacs on thermostat, has welded togher. Compressor will run till it starts pumping liquid frezon, then over heats ,then shuts down till it cools off , and starts all over again replace thermostat..
Check the thermal fuse and thermostats again to eliminate them as suspects. Both should be zero ohms at room temperature. If you eyed the entire duct system from lint filter to outside of the house for lint, then these are probably OK.
One thing that will shut down a dryer: a defective door switch. If you turn the timer on with the door shut and can hear or see it progressing (running) then the door switch is OK.
If your door switch is operating marginally, the heat can expand the body of the switch and open the circuit (and shut the dryer off until it cools). Check the switch with an ohmmeter with the dryer disconnected from power.
A loose spade terminal on this switch (or anywhere else) can do this too.
Also, a misaligned door or defective door clasp might do this after heating up.
Keep thinking 'heat expands' and you might find it.
It sounds to me like your thermostat may be bad. I would check power incoming to t-stat then turn temp. setting up and down to see if it is switching on and off. If not then replace. If it does then I would check all wiring to gas valve and if power is shutting off to valve but burner continues then replace gas valve. Thank you.
Sounds like the low limit or high limit is out these control the fan motor.They are usually set to kick on around 150 degrees and set to go off around 95 to 100 degrees. Over heating does happen with cracked heat exchangers and it can possibly take these two items out. Normally your furnace should run approximately five minutes or a little less then your fan motor comes on and then for cooling down burners should drop and the fan motor should run again roughly five minutes or so then shut down. Times may vary as to your settings.
your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck