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My furnace will not ignite have new electrode gets gas no muddobbers nest inside

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: FRIDGE WILL NOT IGNITE IN GAS MODE

The part you are looking for is the thermo couple. It senses the heat from the flame and holds the gas valve open. The clicking will try three times and then go into lock out. You then will need to reset on the front of the fridge. When installing the thermo couple do not over tighten.

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Carrier Furnace 58gs075-1 Circuit board issues...

I cant see your wire diagram but trace the circut your talking about. I believe it usually goes through a series of safety switches. Put your VOM across each individual switch. If you get 24 out from the board the first 1 you check and get 24v is open and not feeding back to the board is out. FIND out why. the switch could be bad but it may be indicating a more involved problem, just look aroeund for chared wires or tell tell signes of flame roll out or if its an open (fuse link) suspect what can cause an over heat condition anythign from a bad board or too long an off cycle before the indoor fan comes on ect. PONIT IS Once you come across the cause may not be the reason.
Please grade me accordingly and if you need more I need more info from you. 

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

SparkyNZ
  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: New stove gas is flowin

  • Where starting is manual (there is a 'start' position on the control(s), a set of switch contacts on the control(s) provides power to the ignition module.
    • A problem of no spark with only one control indicates that the fault is with it or its wiring.
    • A problem with continuous sparking even with all the controls off or in their normal positions indicates a short - either due to a defective switch in one of the controls or contamination (e.g., spilled liquid) bypassing the switch contacts.

  • Where starting is automatic, an electronic sensor, thermocouple, or bimetal switch provides power to the ignition module as needed.
Before you blame the ignition module for either lack of spark or continuous spark, make sure the wiring is in good condition and completely dry and clean ( or reasonably clean). Confirm that proper voltage is reaching the module with a multimeter or neon test lamp. The modules are quite robust:
  • Any liquid that may have dripped into the module may result in temporary or permanent failure. Fortunately it may be possible to pop off the bottom cover (with power OFF or the module removed!) and clean it. The most likely failure would be the SCR if you are into component level repair. Else, just replace it.
  • WARNING: There are several capacitors inside that may be charged to as much as 300 volts. The charge they can hold is probably not dangerous but may be painful or startling. Discharge these before touching anything inside or attempting to check components. Use a screwdriver blade or test clips and then confirm that they are discharged with a multimeter.
  • Contamination of the controls from spilled liquid may result in continuous activation of the ignition module since any electrical leakage across the switch contacts will likely be enough to activate it. Remove the control panel cover and dry it out or unplug the range or oven for a couple of days. If the contamination is not just plain water, it is a good idea to clean it thoroughly to prevent future problems.
  • Spills into the area of the electrodes at the gas burner assembly may short out the ignition for ALL the burners since they probably use the same module. Again, clean and dry it out or let it dry out on its own (if just water).
These are solutions for standard modules and replacements should be available from your local appliance repair shop or parts supplier. An exact mechanical match is not needed as long as the specifications are compatible.

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 12650 Answers

SOURCE: no ignition on dayton gas furnace. how hard is it

not hard but before replacing check pilot light and thermocouple for proper function and setting if pilot light not in right position thermocouple wont open gas valve if electronic ignition check for power and proper gap on igniter also check stat for proper function

Posted on Oct 31, 2009

  • 2557 Answers

SOURCE: ignition problem with furnace

hi igniter could be in the wrong postion or its not heating up all the way down or its got a crack in it

Posted on Jan 22, 2010

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Intertherm gas furnace in mobile home..igniter comes on then nothing tries to fire byrners but nothing


by igniter I assume you mean the thermocoupler. are you turning the control button to run after you light the pilot light? Normally when those furnaces quit it is the thermocoupler that has quit. Get a new one and leave it in the furnace compartment as a spare.

Jan 06, 2015 | Intertherm Heating & Cooling

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Kenmore gas range when no clicking when turning the oven on


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Range: Gas burner won't spark or ignite A surface burner igniter switch and a spark module activate the spark electrode when a burner is turned to the "Lite" position on a gas range's cooktop. If the surface burner switch, spark module or wiring in that circuit fails, the spark electrode won't work, and as a result the gas burner won't light. If those components work but the electrode won't spark, the problem could be that the spark electrode is coated with spilled food of is bent or broken. In addition, the electrode won't spark or ignite the burner properly if the ceramic insulation sleeve below the tip of the electrode is cracked or broken. If the gas burner isn't lighting, these repairs may help.
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See all articles These repairs may help solve your problem:

Replace the spark igniter electrode

1396454293470.jpg The spark igniter electrode-also called the surface burner igniter-is an insulated electrode that provides an ignition spark to light a surface gas burner. It sparks and makes a ticking sound when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the spark ignition electrode if it fails to spark or if the ceramic insulation sleeve is cracked or chipped. How to Replace a Spark Igniter Electrode in a Gas Range Find This Part

Replace the surface spark module

1377098014986.jpg The surface spark module is in the ignition circuit for the gas surface burners. When a surface burner control knob is turned to the "Lite" position, it provides voltage to the spark electrodes on the gas surface burners. If the surface spark module fails to provide the electrodes with voltage, then it should be replaced. Find This Part

Replace the spark igniter switch

1396454315355.jpg The igniter switch is an electrical switch on the stem of the gas surface burner control valve. This switch completes a circuit to the surface burner spark module, causing the burner igniters to spark when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the burner igniter switch if the burners don't spark when you turn the burner control knob to the Lite position or if igniters spark constantly even when the burner knobs are in the Off position.

May 27, 2014 | Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Getting the heater to lite


Could be a multitude of causes. Here are a few common ones.

Igniter electrode dirty or corroded.
Igniter misaligned.
Failed circuit board.
No power to furnace.
Time delay switch defective.
Sail switch defective.
Overheat switch open/defective.
LP gas valve not opening. Check electrical connections before replacing valve.
Failed to purge system after storage. Light the stove and let it burn for a minute.
Manual LP valve (close to furnace) not opened.
Valve on main LP tank not open.
LP tank empty.

Feb 17, 2014 | RVs

1 Answer

FURNACE WON'T TURN ON: I have a 1999 Fleetwood, Prowler RV. The furnace won't turn on.


Check the exhaust port of the furnace. Wasps like to build nests in there and it will not allow the furnace to ignite if blocked. You have a gas detector and it is turned on I assume? I forgot this many times.

Apr 20, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace won't stay lit


Are your air filters relatively new? Is a bird nesting in your units combustion air exhaust pipe? Does your draft inducer motor run before and after the gas has ignited? Check and confirm these 3 things first. Good Luck!

Mar 03, 2013 | Omega Trane Furnace Draft Inducer Blower...

1 Answer

No fire in box


Do the new electrodes emit an ignition spark? Just becuase they are new doesn't mean that the system that energizes them is functional. Have you tried a new igniter module?

Dec 15, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Duo Therm Mod# 90120.001 runs but won't light


There are only three things that stop a burner from lighting (or engine from running): 1. No fuel 2. bad air/fuel mixture 3. no source of ignition.

Guess what? It's one of these three.

For starters, I actually have this furnace. First things first, make sure you have sufficient voltage to the unit. It runs on the 12 volt system, so make sure the battery is fully charged and/or you are plugged in to "shore" power and your inverter is working. If the voltage is low, the fan will run, the relays will click, but the gas valve may not open and the igniter may not have the juice to run.

At startup, you should hear relays clicking. Three times, on/off, 10 seconds apart, before the board gives up trying. If you don't hear this, probably bad board or bad hearing, but possibly bad sail switch (switch tripped by main blower air flow), relays, or gas valve actuators.

The blower will run even with the control board disconnected.

Next, check for obstructions in the inlet/exhaust, like wasp nests. Wasps LOVE hydrocarbons for some reason. Truthfully though, this shouldn't be a problem unless the nest completely obstructs the tube. This furnace has a choke which restricts the airflow to an area about the diameter of a large middle finger or a small thumb anyway. That's what the "burner air adjustment" adjusts.

If everything is clicking but it still doesn't light, you should be able to smell gas at the exhaust. If not, guess what? Probably no gas. Points to bad board, sail switch, low voltage at valve, or bad valve (unlikely).

Assuming you have gas smell, check the connection to the igniter. Heat/cool-down cycles will tend to loosen the nut. It's a .25 inch socket by the way. To get at it you need to remove the furnace from the RV.

After removal, to get the furnace out of its shroud, you only need to remove the hex screw at the center-front by the gas valve and the wiring pull-thru on the right side. Then the unit will slide out.

While you're at it, check the gas orifice for obstructions. I did this by removing the air inlet shroud, but there may be an easier way. I think you can remove the whole gas assembly instead, but removing the shroud lets you clean everything up a bit. I had mud wasps obstructing the inlet tube. The tube has a choke inside like a flattened golf ball. If you remove the tube it will fall out. It's a little tricky to get back in, but not impossible. Just line it up with a nail.

The gas jet is quite large as gas jets go. Remove the jet and clean it with brake cleaner and/or compressed air.

Check all connections, tighten as necessary. Clean and tighten ground connections, blow or vacuum away dust. Vacuum through the exhaust while you are at it.

Reassemble and spark her up on the bench.

You can McGyver a battery connection to the unit to test operation. Red to red, negative to yellow. The blue wires are for thermostat. Short them together to test operation.

This won't help much without gas, but you can at least see that the sail switch operates properly.

The sail switch controls gas flow.

You can't really test the igniter easily. It's high voltage and a pig to remove and replace. If you don't have a spare gasket, don't.

You can check voltage to gas valve. If none, it is either sail switch or board. Jump sail switch to test which.

Now the iffy bit. If the voltage is lower than 9.5 volts, the valve probably won't open. The question becomes "why." Bad ground? Bad connection somewhere? Bad input voltage? Bad board?

Check, clean and tighten connections. Clean edge connector on board - gently with cloth or pencil eraser. Try again.

This is the situation I have; there is a voltage drop at the valve (between connector and ground) of 3 volts. The furnace runs on shore power, but not on a fully-charged battery. I've ordered a new board.

If you don't understand me, or it still doesn't work, you need a licensed tech with access to parts. He should be able to bench-test unit, so just slide it out and take it to him.

Good luck!

PS: New board from http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/ did the trick.

May 25, 2011 | Dometic Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

FURNACE RUNS UNTIL IT REACHES ITS DESIRED TEMP


Could be cracked or misaligned electrodes. Could be improperly gapped electrodes. Make sure transformer is making contact with the buss bars. Make sure transformer is secured down. Make sure your air setting is not to high, or else it will blow out the spark before ignition. Hope this helps

Apr 24, 2009 | SySTOR Systems (400S52) Burner

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