My clorine is 1.6 and Ph 8, ALK 217. Can I use normal pool chemicals to lower the PH and ALK while using a Intex Salt generater? I want to be sure these chemicals don't cause any problems with the system.
One mistake I have made is to add more salt when the 91 code came on instead of checking for clogged plates first. As the 91 code came one again, 3 times in the last 1 1/2 weeks, I checked plates and they were clogged with white stuff from either salt or too much ALK.
Working fine at this time, but more salt than necessary. And water bills are nasty in this area with draught laws.
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if PH too low add soda ash or baking soda if PH too high add acid muriatic or powder if alkalinity too low add Alk up or soda ash if alk too high add muriatic acid but check PH after PH should br between 7.2 and 7.6 alk should be 80 to 120
Your water is WAY out of whack ... Please check all the chemicals including: Chlorine (ideal is 4 ppm), pH (should be 7.4), Alk (should be 100), Cyanuric Acid (outside pool only)(should be 60 to 80), Calcium (should be 350). Check the balance (see your pool supply company for the procedure to check). Get your salt to around 3400 ppm ...
If your calcium is high, the only way to reduce it is add water with calcium of a known low content of Calcium. If you have too much salt ... you will, again, have to dump water to get rid of the salt.
What about metals? Have you removed the metal from your water? Let the chlorine go to zero and add a sequestering agent ... follow the instrucitons on the bottle. You should add water only through a "bobby sox" filter to keep metals to a minimum.
I hope this helps you ... thanks for using FixYa.com
Sure no problem. Just make sure salt level and other chemistry (PH, ALK, Hardness) is within normal ranges. There are number of Salt system available these days, some designed specifically for above ground. Your best bet is to visit a local pool retailer, and ask them for their recommendations based on your pool size type, and type of equipment
Have the salt tested free where you purchase chemicals. While there, get a Taylor test kit to test for CL, pH, Alk, CA and Cyanuric Acid.
Salt is persistent in the water - translation - once in the water, it stays there, it doesn't go away except through splash out or back wash. Your salt should be around 3200 ppm. Get rid of the metals in the water before you do anything ... get the Alk around 100 then adjust the pH and introduce your CL. Cyanuric Acid protests the CL you are making. Some places call this 'stabilizer' and the reading should be around 60 to 100 ppm. Calcium is like salt ... persistent in the water ... lost under the same circumstances.
I hope this information helps you.
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Follow these steps ... let the CL go to zero ... add a sequestering agent to get the metal out. Follow container instructions ... run the filter 24/7 (deferring to the instructions on the sequestering agent.) When the metal is out, get your calcium to 300 ppm, get your alk to 100, get your cyanuratic acid to 70 - 90 ppm, get your pH to 7.2/7.4 and introduce 2 to 4 ppm of CL. Do this in this order over the course of 2 days. Dont dump all this stuff in at once and expect good results.
If Cal is more than 300 ppm, dump some water and add new. What is the Cal level in your fill water? Be aware of that number as you adjust.
Use Sodium Bi Carb to increase your Alk
Use Sodium Carb to increase your pH
Use dry or liquid acid to reduce Alk and/or pH as necessary
Get the Alk set first before you try to adj the pH.
The Cyanuric acid will protect your CL from the sun.
You cannot run your filter too long! Backweash only when the pressure raises 10 lbs from the new fresh startup pressure. Doing so before is wasteful of chemical and defeats the filter process.
If you are using salt, get the water as I said before you turn on the salt cell. Add salt per instructions on the bag. Use pool/food grade salt only!
Chlorine generators will slowly raise the pH over time. You will always need to have acid ready to be added once the readings start getting above 7.6. You should try and maintain it down around 7.2 - 7.4 to allow for mistakes. As for the generator; can you turn up the rate it generates chlorine? I am not as familiar with the intex but other brands have an adjustment knob to vary the rate chlorine is made.
You are going to need to buy chemicals anyway (acid for sure and probably algaecide) so find a good pool store tech and have them test your water and recommend the proper doses.
In summary though, you should not taste the salt in the pool and being able to means the salt content is to high. Chlorine generators will not work if the salt is to high and the fix is to drain water and dilute the remaining water until the salt content is no higher than max. No chlorine could explain the algae.
Generators also cause the pH to rise over time so you will need to keep acid on hand to counteract that.
start with testing your chlorine and ph add liquid shock and conditioner to water dont use algecide you have to get clorine to open up this is critical ph clorine and conditioner you should get a good clorine reading or you have to add more shock