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Briggs&stratton 10hp 19E400 carburetor linkage

Hook-up linkage for governor/carb linkage

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  • Brad Brown Dec 02, 2016

    Hi Larry , I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Need linkage hookup diagram for Toro Super

Go to TORO.com and view parts for your model.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs and Stratton Governor Linkage problem

The easiest thing for you to do is look at any 12.5-19hp Briggs single cylinder engine that's on just about any riding mower.. They all have the same set-up.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Poulan Lawntractor 13.5HP throttle linkage missing

The easiest thing for you to do is look at another mower that has a single cylinder Briggs at how the linkage is set up. They will all be the same linkage from 12 hp- 20 hp.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

huffman49
  • 235 Answers

SOURCE: I can't remember how to hook-up the governor to

it goes on the top of the throttle link in the 1st hole near the engine..good luck

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs & Stratton Model 92502 3.5 HP Engine with

Hi hjconn...

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
NOTE: Before you dissemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you dissemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
This is a FREE answer,Please take time to rate me

Posted on Jun 25, 2011

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21 hp briggs and stratton motor model # 407677 type 0258 trim e1. Motor runs wide open even at idle. Already check the screws on the governor butterflies all are tight. Governor moves freely. Springs...


Its a carb problem. Here is link for the carb overhaul kit - http://www.amazon.com/BRIGGS-STRATTON-797890-KIT-CARB-OVERHAUL/dp/B005F6QHI8


Here is a good walk-through for repairs. The site seems like it has a few bugs. I can't post the direct link to the articles because the pictures don't come through for me and I don't want to give you something that isn't beneficial.

Below is the link to the main page.
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The engine starts ok but it keeps revving up and down, as though its about to conk out, although, so far, it hasn't. It has also started to blow out some white smoke? I have changed the spark plug - but...


Your Briggs & Stratton has a Sprint or Classic motor on it. Every few years, the diaphragm in the carburetor must be replaced.
Briggs part #495770

1. Remove the air filter assembly. This is a good time to clean and re-oil the filter.
2. Remove the 3/8" head bolt from the front of the fuel tank.
3. Remove the 1/2" head bolt from the side of the fuel tank.
4. Gently pull the fuel tank assembly toward you and tilt it away from you. While doing this, you will need to unhook the governor wire from the throttle plate.
5. Drain the gasoline (you can use it again later)
6. Remove the 5 screws that hold the carburetor on top of the fuel tank.
7. Pull the carb straight up. Be careful not to lose the spring or strainer on the bottom of the carb.
8. Remove the diaphragm.
9. Clean the carb and tank surfaces with carb cleaner spray.
10. Open the package with the new diaphragm in it. You will find 2 pieces. One is rubber, the other is paper.
11. Place the rubber diaphragm onto the fuel tank, then the paper one. Gently reinstall the carb onto the tank.
12. Push the 5 screws back into the carb. Before you tighten any of the screws, have all 5 pushed through and wiggle the carb a little, this will allow the diaphragm to align properly. Tighten the screws.
13. Reinstall the tank/carb assembly. Make sure you hook up the governor linkage.
14. Inspect the governor spring(s). They should be connected on both ends. You should not disconnect them for this repair.
15. Reinstall the air filter, gas, prime, and GO!

Good Luck!

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It could be that the governor spring has become disconnected or has broken on an end where it hooks onto the throttle linkage. If the spring is OK & throttle linkage is not binding it could mean the governor drive inside the engine has failed preventing the governor from operating correctly. You may need to take the engine to a mechanic to fix the problem.

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lots of things it could be........check the obvious first

1.....throttle butterfly to see if it had come out of the carburetor
2.....check static governor settings. to set rotate carb to wide open throttle, loosen governor arm and rotate it to the right, tighten jam nut, if it still runs away then you have a blown governor inside the mower
3..... check for unhooked springs and linkages
hope this helps and good luck the above 3 things to check is 90 percent of all my repairs in the shop when it comes to the engine running too fast

see ya!

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