Question about Samsung Televison & Video
The TV is a Samsung un50h5203afxza version mh01. As stated if I plug in the power cable the backlight flickers about once per second but the red power led will not come on. The TV itself does not respond to the power button on the remote. I checked the power supply board and no caps looked burned out and the mainboard doesn't have any signs of toasting. I tried reseating the cables to see if maybe it was a bad connection but that did not fix the issue. The TV is only about 2 years old so it's out of warranty but the screen is still in good shape.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok, There are well three boards in this set that would influence such a
behavior. The culprit is the Key Pad Board. It has what is called a
leaky switch. This then locks up the Microprocessor. This will result
in the set operating like a ghost has the remote.
Posted on Dec 06, 2007
SOURCE: I have Sharp Aquos LC-65D64U
It sounds like a backlight inverter to me. I am 99% sure. The buzzing noise you mentioned kind of confirms that, so does the backlight turning off. If you want to test them, then you are gonna need a multimeter. I will see if I can find a schematic in my collection, but be aware that this is a highvoltage device we are dealing with. May not be a good idea to test it yourself if you have never worked on electronics before. The sets hold nasty voltages for several days after its turned off and unplugged, and can injure you if you are not careful. I don't mean to scare you but its my job to tell you. If you want to proceed then I'm game.
Posted on Nov 01, 2010
SOURCE: Visio p42hd, no picture
Yes it does sound like the mainboard. But we have to confirm. I will see if there is a service manual for this unit in my collection but do you think you can safely work on it? Have you worked on electronics before? The last thing I want is you hurting yourself trying to fix it. HV circuits are not to be messed with unless you know about them.
Posted on Nov 03, 2010
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
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