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I need institutions on Fisher &Paykel smart drive 9 PRIDE 5.5 how to fix No power I'm told it could be the Fuse -where is it located?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: fisher paykel smart drive 9 pride

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean (ref manual). There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it (4 to 6 inches maximum) Of course some direct the hose into sink, fine. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Rate me pl.....if helped. Click on 'thanks for trying' if not helped, your problem will be back for someone else to solve. Post back if not resolved, that is 'comment'

Posted on May 30, 2008

IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel smart drive

Turn machine OFF on the front panel. Hold down the Water Temp Down button and press the POWER button. Release buttons. You are in Diagnostic mode.With your service sheet ,Diagnostic chart will explain where the error lights pattern and the path to your solution are.My advice is this....there is a known problem with the wire harness connectors,and the contact that is made at the point of connection.One at a time remove each connector starting at your main control board ,some where there is a loose connection.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: I have a problem, I

Hi,

The fuse blowing is significant. If you could possible post back the rating of the fuse, then possibly we can narrow down the suspects. The idea being, it the Amps of the fuse is rated high, then It signifies that there is a short in the circuitry big enough to draw excessive current such as the electrical components and blow that fuse. If however the fuse rating is rather low, then the short is on a lower load such as the electronics.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back on the rating of the fuse that blows, how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: How to I get to the pump on my Fisher & Paykel

If machine has water in it, bucket out as much as you can.

To access pump:
-Pull machine forward and lean it backwards so you can access under machine.
-On the front right hand side, you will see a fan blade- this is the drain pump. This fan blade should spin freely if you turn it by hand.
-To remove pump: remove plug connection that has 2 wires. Remove other plug connection that has 1 wire. On the top of the pump assembly, you will see a white plastic tag, about a 40mm long horizontally across the pump- gently pull tag towards you, and turn complete pump unit anti clockwise- whole pump will drop out (don't force it, it should come out easily) *Note* if there is water in machine still, it will come out when you remove pump assembly- be ready with some towels!!
-Check pump impellor(blade on other end of pump) is free from obstruction, and turns easily. Check with your finger to see if there is any obstruction in the hole where the pump has come out of (inside bowl).
-You can test pump with an ohm meter (should be approx 37ohms from memory)
Reassemble and test for leaks etc

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

ftw1952
  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: my fisher and paykel smart

This fault can be caused by failure of one of the major electrical parts: motor, pump, rotor positioning sensor, reed switch, display panel or one of the water valves. Also, cause can be in the motor controller itself. It can be burned by water related short cut or by power surge.
On the "phase 4"( models 085, 058, 508, 608, 708) motor controller there is a mode where it can shut down in the event of a transient on the mains. What does this means is that machine will go in "asleep" mode and the module will not restart unless the power is turned off at the wall for at least 90 seconds.
On the "phase 5" (models 095-Fresh, 059-Pride, 509-Excellence, 609, 709) pump is considered as a part of the power supply. If it is disconnected (thermal cut out tripped which can be caused by pump blockage) washing machine will be dead.
Repair of this fault is quite expensive and vary between models from $100 to $250.
Best way to prevent it is to do regular inexpensive service checks of all major parts and empty pockets before wash. If you buy used washing machine try to arrange cleaning, water blasting and sanitizing services which will free drum and bowl from all dirt that can cause pump blockage.
LEAKING
This is most common washing machine problem and in some cases it is related to real technical issues and sometimes to misuse or wrong installation.
Easy to notice leaks are from water taps, inlet hoses, hot or cold water valves, water mixing chamber. Leak from top end of the drain hose is also easy to notice and usual spot is close to the connection to the body of the machine.
Leaking from the pump is almost always caused by poorly secured pump bracket; pump's
diaphragm and pump itself are last causes for the leak. Next possible leak spot is an air bell.
If water level is not set properly and water is filled over HIGH mark on the agitator, splashing may cause some "leak". Over filling may be caused by bad (dirty or punched) pressure pipe. Clothes overloading can make same problem.
Broken neck ring and damaged plastic inner bowl are another possible reasons for leak as well as too much detergent used.
Fixing of leak related problems should not(except damaged inner bowl and leak from main seal) be very expensive, up to a $100 most

Posted on Jul 12, 2011

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