Question about Frost Refrigerators

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2007 american standard heat pump. Will not go on defrost when coils are fully iced. PC board has been replaced ambiant sensor, and frost sensor have all been replaced.

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Sometime u get bad parts new in the box. Have u tested each part. Put defrost sensor in freezer if the open/close when the get cold they are good, note most switch somewhere around 27f after u have confirmed the switches are good. Remove sensor (defrost) and relocate to another spot on the coil , maybe one of the end loops that freeze first. Also u didn't mention the psi. If it's low the unit will freeze. Hope that helps

Posted on Dec 02, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Why will my frig not do it's defrost cycle? Could it be the temp Fuse - where is it?


First off try taking a vacuum cleaner and cleaning off your coils of any dust, dirt or hair that is blocking good air flow to make sure your refrigerant is as cool as possible before it hits the compressor.

If you have frost on your evaporator coils that means the coils probably are covered in an ice layer which stops the coils from absorbing heat from your refrigerator because believe it or not, 32 F ice is not near as cold as evaporator tubes with refrigerant running thru them at about -20F or lower.
So make sure there is a nice unobstructed air flow to condensing coils and fan so the heat from refrigerator compressor can be carried away properly.

After everything is really clean, turn refrigerator completely off for the night to make sure any ice formed on the coils is melted away. Any ice on the coils will screw up the thermostats and then the refrigerator will turn on the compressor to run even when it shouldn't

So do a complete manual defrost before going back on

Nov 20, 2015 | Frost Refrigerators

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Why is Ice Forming on my Heat Pump


Many people have heat pumps and never realize that ice can form on the outdoor unit. Some have seen ice on their heat pumps but do not know how much is too much until they have a problem with not enough heat. Still others have a backup heat source and never know that they have a problem.

First off lets establish that heat pumps will form ice on the outdoor unit, usually whenever the outdoor temperatures go below about 40 degrees F. This threshold for ice depends a lot on the humidity of the air outside. If it is raining or snowing, the ice will form much more readily and rapidly. It is normal for ice to form on the outdoor unit because it is the cold side of the system when it is running in the heating mode. Because of this cooling, if the outdoor temperature is near or below freezing and there is moisture in the air, it will condense and freeze on the unit.

To keep the ice from building up to the point where it stops all the air flow, the outdoor unit will have a defrost timer board. This operates in conjunction with a sensor. Every 30 – 90 minutes the board will check the sensor. If the sensor tells the board that ice has formed on the coil it will then change the unit over from heating to cooling. This will make the outdoor unit the hot side for a short time to melt away the ice. While it does this, the unit will also energize the back up heat which is often an electric coil or a furnace. This will keep the inside air from blowing cold while the unit is defrosting.
When the sensor feels the coil temperature at about 50 degrees F it will then tell the board to return to the regular heating and switch the coils around again.

If this process fails to work for some reason the outdoor coil will become a big block of ice and look something like this.

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When your outdoor coil becomes totally frozen over it stops all the air flow through the coil and stops the heating process. In extreme case it can be very difficult and becomes a very long process to defrost the coil. You need to practice a lot of patience and care when defrosting a badly frozen coil. A torch or preferably a heat gun (hair dryer) can be used to speed up the defrost process. If it continues to occur the timer needs to be set to defrost more often or either the timer or the sensor has gone bad.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3563896-air_conditioning__cleaning_the_condenser

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636724-r_410a_new_refrigerant_air_conditioning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636751-air_conditioner_seer_seasonal_energy

on Jan 30, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

BUZZING NOISE FROM MY HEAT PUMP


Take a look at this YouTube page that explains with good videos what are some of the common problems with heat pump noise. The one that seems dominant is the defrost cycle a heat pump goes thru when it melts ice off the evaporative coils. In defrost cycle, The compressor runs but the cooling fan does not, so you will hear a loud buzzing sound and the unit sounds like it is stalled...because only the compressor is running to generate heat to melt coil ice.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=American+Standard+5000+Heat+Pump+makes+a+buzzing+noise
Defrost cycle noise video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wudLk0WoIVo

Mar 06, 2015 | American Standard 5000 Heat Pump Unit

1 Answer

There is a loud humming coming from outside unit, the fan is not rotating.


Your question does not include what type of system you are asking about, but the assumption is that it is a heat pump. The loud humming is the compressor running by itself while the fan is off.

This is the typical way a reasonably new heat pump operates:
There is a coil temperature sensor that initiates a defrost period to eliminate the frost/ice build up on the outdoor coil. In the defrost mode, the outdoor fan shuts off and the reversing valve in the heat pump reverses the direction of refrigerant flow to warm the outdoor coil. The same coil temperature sensor senses the temperature of the external surface of the coil and tells the defrost control when the frost is gone initiating another 'reverse cycle' to put it back into heating mode. In the heating mode, the outdoor fan runs again.

If you have the heat pump installed where snow drifts accumulate, you will have a problem extracting heat from the outdoor air, and coil frosting and freezing will be exaggerated. If you have excessive ice build up due to a defosting issue, the ice can actually stop the fan from rotating, but you would hear loud bangind and rattling for hours first as the fan blades come in contact with the ice.

If you do not have drifts, but continually have an excessive amount of ice build up, either the sensor is possibly faulty or the defrost control board is faulty. The sensor's clip could easily have been knocked loose from the coil by ice and is no longer sensing coil temperature and if so the result would be the lack of defrost initiation.

Feb 13, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Freezer side not freezing


Check for ice / frosting inside the freezer .... If present you probably have a defrost problem.... This causes the freezer coil to ice up and block the air flow ... the causes could be a bad defrost heater , defrost timer, defrost sensors, or control board. Also make sure that the condenser coil is clean. remove ALL dust with a vacuum and a coil brush .the coil is located either on the bottom or on the back side of the unit... You didn't give the Make and model #

Apr 04, 2014 | Freezers

1 Answer

When the air con is on heating it works fine for about 5-10 minutes and then the compressor stops and then the outdoor fan stops and then the indoor unit stops heating.


This could be any number of problems depending on whether this unit is a heat Pump or not. It sounds like it is a heat pump, if so it should have a defrost board or Control of some type. They also usually have a defrost or ice sensor on the outdoor Refrigerant coil. When ice or heavy frost is detected it puts the unit into defrost. This Could be why your unit is cycling off, the sensor could be bad or the board could be Bad. Also be sure your air filters are clean and the indoor and outdoor refrigerant Coils are clean. This may require you to remove the unit and hose it out.

Aug 09, 2011 | LG Art Cool LA121CNP wall/window Air...

1 Answer

Fan freezes up with ice in winter


They need air, do not cover it when in use.

If ti cools fine in summer then you just have a defrost problem.

Make sure the outdoor coil is clean.
If the coils are clean, then you have a bad defrost control.

In heat mode the unit should go into a timed or temp controlled defrost. If it is frosting up to the point of stopping the fan, in heat mode only, and otherwise operates properly, then its a bad defrost control.

It is reccomended that the defrost temp sensor be replaced at the same time the defrost control board is replaced. Some temp sensors are part of the board and not a seperate component, but not most.

Aug 19, 2009 | GE Zoneline AZ25E12D3B Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Ice on the outside coil !


Sounds like a heat pump.
The board should have a way to set the frequency of defrost cycles.
The unit should check the temp of the coil sensor when going into defrost. If its at the correct temp., it goes into defrost mode. If not, it will go into defrost for about 30 seconds and then back into the heat mode. I would look into the sensor. It is usually located on the inside of the outside coil at the bottom. Usually has 2 wire leading to it. It will probably be wrapped in some type of insulation tape.
Good Luck and I hope this helps.

Mar 08, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Condenser frost's up on my heat pump


On a heat pump the system reverses during the heat cycle to bring in outside heat that will cause the outside coils to ice up. There is a defrost timer or pc board to send the unit into defrost every so often. This is a common problem with heat pumps or possibly low or refrigerant. Heat pumps will freeze up at low outside temps, but unless your in the Artic right now that shouldn't be a problem.

Sep 27, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

LG GR S462QVC


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1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.


The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

May 14, 2008 | Kenmore 53542 / 53544 Side by Side...

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