An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has posted more than 50 answers, of which 90% or more were rated as helpful.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: See two images at higher power.
Your binoculars are out of collimation. That means that the optical path needs to be aligned. Binoculars are designed so that the focus point of each barrel is the same over long and as short as possible distances. Binoculars that are properly aligned will still show a double image if you attempt to focus at something close that is too close for the models design. However this is not the same for long distances. The image at a long distance must not be doubled.
If they are under warranty and you haven't damaged them by dropping etc send them for repair to the manufacturer or ask the retailer where to send them.
If you are going to pay to have them fixed get a quote first. Binoculars that are of the zoom variety are not well thought of among binocular officionados as the quality of image degrades at higher magnification. For the price of repair you may be able to source a higher quality non zoom binocular.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
In-car entertainment systems, especially the types chosen for camper vans, etc., are often capable of quite high power outputs and usually need speakers capable of being driven at those high power outputs without damage.
The trouble is, such speakers usually don't sound so good at the very low volume settings needed for evening and late night use in a campsite environment to avoid annoyance to neighbours.
It is a big problem choosing speakers that sound good at low volume and yet can withstand the higher volume needed to overcome the wind and road noise of driving. There have been many technological advances in speaker design and a hi-fi specialist will undoubtedly be able to make suitable recommendations that are resistant to damp conditions, long-lasting and with cones free enough for good reproduction at ultra low volumes but robust enough to withstand high power outputs and such drive units are likely to be fairly expensive.
For myself I would choose to use a dual speaker system with a multi-speaker system comprising several low-powered speakers strategically placed for low volume use and a fairly standard high-powered system for normal use and a selector switch.
Assuming you've turned the humistat all the way to the maximum dry setting, it's possible it's not humid enough for it to run but fairly unlikely. The humistat may need to be cleaned or replaced or the compressor may be low on freon. If it works in hotter temperatures this may indicate low freon. Freon pressure increases with temperature therefore if it's hot, the pressure inside may increase enough to satisfy the low pressure switch.
What eye piece (EP) are you using? It is much better to start off with a low power eyepiece (say a 25mm - the higher the mm on the EP the lower the power) as a high power EP (say a 10mm) will give a very narrow field of view and will be much more difficult to get things into focus.
Try focusing on a terrestrial object, like a tree top, to get the hang of the focuser and then try the moon. I have an 8SE and it can be fairly finicky on the focus until used to it.
Most of the stars and planets will be little more than dots. You should be able to make out the phases of Venus, the bands on Jupiter and some of its moons and the rings of Saturn, but if you are expecting Hubble type images then sorry to disappoint you.
There are also times when the skies appear clear but due to "seeing" conditions, sharp focus is not possible. Remember we are looking through a few kilometres of moving air.
Try joining http://www.astronomyforum.net They are a friendly and helpful group.
ISO refers to the sensitivity your camera has to light when taking a photograph.
A lower ISO value is generally better as a high ISO value can reduce the
quality of an image and cause it to appear grainy or noisy. Therefore,
you should always aim to use a low ISO value. When outdoors in a bright
light, an ISO value of 100 or 200 should be fine.
Higher ISO values can be used in situations where, perhaps, you are
indoors, there is low light or you cannot use a flash. A higher ISO
value such as 800 or 1600 can be used to compensate for the lack of
light and it will brighten the image for you. A high ISO value can also
be used if you wish to create a grainy effect in the image but this can
be easier to achieve afterward on a computer.
There are two reasons. One reason is that when on high power you are working so close to the glass slide that it is easy to misjudge how much you are moving the specimen toward the lens that you can break a slide before you realize it. The coarse focus moves the stage with the specimen on it very fast and you only have a very very short distance within the focus plane before you run the objective lens into the slide.
Secondly, it is just harder to control the minute adjustments needed at the higher powers with the "coarse" focus knob. If you start at the low magnifications find what you want to concentrate on with the coarse focus knobs and then work your way up to the higher powers, you will have very little trouble moving to the fine focus controls at 40x and 100x while still having control of your image.
I just fixed my bass amp with a similar problem last week: the problem is related to a loose connection on the PCB board (likely).
A bass amp is a rough place for circuitry: the low rumble and power shake a bass amp more than a guitar amp.
In my case, the power transistors needed to be re-soldered and then the grounding bolts and screws needed to be removed and cleaned because the connection was bad. Remember that when two different metals needed for an electric connection are toughing, there is the likelyhood that corrosion WILL happen.
My bass amp did basically the same thing yours did: sounded good at low volumes, but at higher volumes it would act up.
In short, there is nothing you can do (unless you are a repair person): you need to take it to a local music shop and have a tech fix the intermittant contact problem: someone who knows what they are doing should only take an hour at most.
Apparently your power supply is an ATX 20-pin type (v1.x) and is the standard a year or 2 back. Your motherboard being fairly recent uses the new standard which is ATX1 24-pin type (v2.x).
Your options are: 1. Replace your power supply with a higher wattage/XX pin; 2. You may still use the old 20-pin power supply provided that it is rated 300 watts or higher. Additionally, please bear in mind that using a 20-pin PSU to an ATX1 (24pin) may cause boot failure and/or instability during operation due to insufficient power delivery.
I scanned part of a motherboard's manual to illustrate how this could be done. Below is the image for your reference.
Hope this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
SHQ1 and HQ are two different levels of compression to make the file smaller. This will have a great impact on the image quality.
Generally on Olympus cameras, this is what those letters mean:
TIFF (highest (best) quality) generally not used. Files are HUGE and takes a long time for the camera to save the image to the card.
SHQ (super high quality) you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between this and the TIFF
HQ (high quality) which is lower quality than SHQ
SQ (standard quality) which is lower quality than HQ
SQ1 (standard quality 1) which is lower quality that SQ
SQ2 (standard quality 2) which is lower quality that SQ1
A 2048x1536 only seems large because most people have their monitors set to 800x600 or maybe 1024x768 (that's what I have mine set at).
This will seem to make the image REALLY LARGE! It only seems that way because you have to scroll around to see the image.
If you want to print images, you'll want all the resolution you can get.
If you want to display them on your screen (slide show,WEB page) then you don't need large images. You would just need to resize them down.
However, since you may want to both, getting a camera with a higher resolution gives you the choice to do either. Usually, the higher resolution cameras have better lenses and generally take better pictures.
On my camera (the Oly 2100), I always shoot at the highest resolution and the least amount of compression (SHQ on my camera). This allows me to do almost anything with the image. Nowadays, camera media (smart cards) are fairly cheap, HD's are DIRT cheap and CD-Rs are very cheap.
If the images are "keepers", then I personally would want to start with the best image possible and store the images on CD.