Ice cube tray overflowing-not shuting off automatically
I recently had the water valve on the freezer replaced, but now the ice maker keeps making ice and does not stop before overflowing the ice cube tray. The freezer was frozen shut with solid ice, when I forced the whole drawer open a piece of white plastic was found. Could this be a piece that was attached to the maker for a shutoff purpose?
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Re: Ice cube tray overflowing-not shuting off...
Yes that is a plastic extension for the icemaker shut off. When replaced the new one should be secured with two small zip ties. You can use the ice on/off button to shut the icemaker off manually in the mean time. When ice is displayed in the panel it is on and when it is off so is the icemaker.
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I can't make out the words in your picture so there is not a lot of information to go on, but I will give it a try. If yours is like my refridgerator, there are a couple of off switches for the ice maker. One is on the control panel like the one you tried to photograph. Mine selects crushed ice, cubed ice, or ice off. The other soff switch is the lever switch that sits over the ice cube reservoir inside the freezer and shuts off the ice maker when the reservoir is full. If this lever switch is stuck in the up position you will make no ice. You say that water runs out of the front. Another problem that I once had with my ice maker was that the plastic housing around the ice cube tray cracked. One tray of ice cubes was made but when the ice maker flipped the tray over to expel the ice cubes the cracked plastic prevented any torque on the tray and the ice cubes would not come out. When the tray returned to the upright position new water would flow onto the tray, but since it was already full of ice cubes the water would simply overflow into the ice bucket reservoir. It did this over and over until I had an ice sculpture in my freezer and reservoir instead of ice cubes.
Another potential issue that I have found is that you may have very strong water pressure coming into the fridge, which might make the water jump and splash out of the tray. Perhaps turning down the water pressure somehow might be an easy (and cheap) solution?
there s a adjustment but it only controls /like 1 to 2 oz of water . its prbably the ice mker unit or the water valve . .. ice mker tell water how long to let water in and if valve is bak it might not shop off causing water fill . change water valve first . then ice maker if needed .. icemker might have a bad tray and some cubes do not drop / if so next fill will over fill causing problem . mm
Sounds like a bad water valve located in the rear bottom of the machine. (not shutting down properly).
Solution is to replace the valve.
In extremely rare cases it can be a faulty ice maker.
The ice maker sends power to the water valve for 7 seconds on each cycle. If the circuit board in the ice maker malfunctions, it could cause this problem.
But again, very rare.
When the ice maker calls for water it pours for about 7 seconds if more will overflow and the problem is in the ice maker board but if pours water for nomore than 7 seconds and still overflow it means that was extra water in the ice maker ,that means that the dual water valve(located in the bottom back of the refrigerator) is leaking and needs to be replaced.
There's no ice
If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, check these, in this order:
It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these:
If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.
If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire.
In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.
The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary.
The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.
Small or too few ice cubes
If the ice maker is producing ice poorly--making small cubes or too few cubes--you probably have a clogged water line, a defective water-inlet valve, or a defective ice maker mold thermostat that isn't cycling properly. Check these:
The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.
The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.
Check the freezer temperature. If should be 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.
The ice maker mold thermostat. Make sure that it's cycling properly.
Specks in the cubes
If you find black or gray specks in your ice cubes, have a look at the ice cube tray. If the protective coating is peeling away, the most economical solution is to completely replace the ice maker.
yes, in fact the icemaker does meter the amount of water delivered to the icemaker, the valve should only be energized for 7 seconds. after that the power is cut off, so if valve continues to let water flow, it's bad (might have debris from water line keeping it open. unserviceable. )