Question about GE PSW23PSRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer fine, Fridge warm

Compressor generating a bunch of heat. No apparent frost buildup. Shall I shut the entire fridge down to "re-set" everything?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Evaporator coils frosting up

the frosting of the back compartment of the freezer indicates that the ice builds up at the evaporator ( the coil that cools). the system is supposed to melt the ice after a particular time interval for a period of time in order to start another cycle. im not sure if that model uses the electronic timer which you can not manually adjust to see if it is heating up on the heating mode. you would have to check three things. one is the defrost heater itself if it has continuity. another is the thing that we called thermodisc . its a part of the heating circuit where it cuts the heating current after it senses that the temperature of the evaporator is way up the thaw temperature. it is normally connected in series with the defrost heater and it is attached to the latter part of the evaporator tube. lastly which as i have told you is the timer. if its a mechanical timer, then probably it is not going to the heating mode. another is the electronic timer which is very hard to trouble shoot. you have to really observe the refrigerator how long it is running and if the compressor is stopping and the heater working by looking at the back if water is draining after a few minutes the compressor stop. as i may add, as you have said it is winter there, a thermostat setting could be an issue. the heater could probably not cope up with the coldness of the ambient temperature in which i may suggest to put the thermostat setting to the lowest setting on the knob. i hoped i was able to help....drcool

Posted on Feb 05, 2008

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22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: freezer fine /After power went out twice fridge not cold enough

In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel behind which is the compressor. Listen for a hum and a click. If you hear those sounds the compressor may have failed. Behind that same panel is a condenser where heat is removed from the refrigerating system. Make sure it is clean and check that the fan operates when the compressor runs.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: ge mod.pde18lzpbww.defrost tray ice buildup every

Remove the rear panel inside the freezer . Defrost the drain tray whr=ere the drain hole is until water will flow down it . Hot water sometimes helps . Use a small hose inserted into the drain and blow out any debris . Get a Solid ALUMINUM wire about 9 inches long (14-16 guage) and put into the hole as far as possible without using force (bend the wire if necessary) and make a hook with the other end ahich you should hook onto the defrost heater . This ALUMINUM wire will keep the drain hole cleared of ice due to the transfer of heat from the glass defrost heater . Do not make the hook too tight for fear of breaking the glass covering on the heater .

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer is now my fridge, and my fridge doesn't

You mentioned the back of freezer was covered with ice. It sounds like a defrost problem. A problem that has been unseen for quite awhile by the sounds of it. In extreme cases you may have to shut it off completely, unpluged and doors open for 24 hrs. or more. Once the unit has defrosted completely, it will cool normally...for a little while. Check the defrost heater and dts (defrost termination switch) and defrost timer or electronic control. If you're not sure, manual defrosting will by you some time (maybe a week) to have a pro look at it for you. Good luck

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Freezer stays cold but fridge has been warm. I turn the thermostat to off for a day and then everything is ok for a week. Sounds like the fan is frozen solid when fridge doesn't work( no sound) Th


If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

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1 Answer

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Check behind and underneath for dust buildup, sounds like your compressor needs cleaned on the outside, the dust is causing it to overheat and retain condensation, hence the ice buildup. Easy thing to check, good luck.

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1 Answer

Fridge is not cold and freezer is thawing all my frozen food , is compressor gone?


Check if fan in freezer is running as well as fan by the compressor and the compressor itself. Check for any frost buildup on evaporator cover in freezer.

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1 Answer

Fridge compartment freezing


First of all switch off the fridge and allow all the frost to clear off Then reduce the settings on the thermostat and switch on the fridge. If the fault stays then check if the compressor is shutting off , if not your thermostat can be faulty. Also if the timer is not working then frost can build up and reduce cooling. so check this out before you confirm. Repeat the shut down when the frost develops and do your settings/corrections before switch on. Only then you can confirm on the fault. Hope you try this out. Good day

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1 Answer

We keep having to "defrost" our refrigerator. It is five years old. A repairman came out and showed us how to take the inside back panel off of the refrigerator part and de-ice it. Why does ice keep...


A lack of refrigerant or a compressor problem might be the cause of freezer low efficiency but that is unlikely to blame for the buildup of ice in the refrigerator.

A certain amount of ice is normal and initially in the evolution of the fridge there was a need for routine deicing, typically just a few times each year. Later a heating element was included to ease the task of defrosting.
These days the heating element is now automatically switched on briefly every time the cooling cycle finishes and the resulting water drained into a cup mounted on the compressor. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water and the fridge remains frost-free.

I expect your fridge should be frost free and clearly the auto defrost is not working. This shouldn't be a great problem and if everything else was good it would just mean routine deicing like the early days. Clearly everything else is not good and the buildup of ice is much more than normal.

Assuming it isn't caused by an elementary mistake like placing hot food in the cabinet there are two main causes of excessive ice buildup - one is a defective door seal and the other is failing cabinet insulation, the latter marked by the compressor needing to run longer to maintain a low temperature and parts of the outside of the cabinet feeling "chilly".

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1 Answer

My admiral fridge freezer has suddenly become warm. Freezer is defrosting and fridge is warm. Lights are still on so there is power.


Check your compressor area for lint buildup. Is the fan running down there?aa4623f.jpg Is the compressor running? Both should be running when the control is calling for cool and the inside fan is running. Looks for signs of distress associated with the compressor relay.7842c79.jpg4e4f405.jpg If all of that is good. Look for frost buildup on the freezer wall, a sure sign of a defrost problem. Remove the freezer service panel and look for frost buildup. You could have a bad heat or terminator.644d73c.jpg

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1 Answer

Clogged Drain in the fridge causing ice buildup


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Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like it is doing some cooling. Check to see if your evaporator fan is running and there is not ice buildup on your evaporator (indicating a defrost issue, common on ge refrigerators, usually heater goes bad), you would either see ice on the back wall of freezer or if you take off the back wall you will see lots of frost. Also check if your condensor fan is running and clean the condensor. The compressor is running since it is getting down to 27 but if it is not being cooled it will shut down. Another common problem on the ge refrigerator is the main board contacts going bad and not running the compressor. If your compressor is running the whole time and none of the other conditions exist it sounds like you have a leak or restriction in the refrigerant or sealed system.

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1 Answer

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How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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2 Answers

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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