Question about GE PSW23PSRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer fine, Fridge warm

Compressor generating a bunch of heat. No apparent frost buildup. Shall I shut the entire fridge down to "re-set" everything?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Evaporator coils frosting up

the frosting of the back compartment of the freezer indicates that the ice builds up at the evaporator ( the coil that cools). the system is supposed to melt the ice after a particular time interval for a period of time in order to start another cycle. im not sure if that model uses the electronic timer which you can not manually adjust to see if it is heating up on the heating mode. you would have to check three things. one is the defrost heater itself if it has continuity. another is the thing that we called thermodisc . its a part of the heating circuit where it cuts the heating current after it senses that the temperature of the evaporator is way up the thaw temperature. it is normally connected in series with the defrost heater and it is attached to the latter part of the evaporator tube. lastly which as i have told you is the timer. if its a mechanical timer, then probably it is not going to the heating mode. another is the electronic timer which is very hard to trouble shoot. you have to really observe the refrigerator how long it is running and if the compressor is stopping and the heater working by looking at the back if water is draining after a few minutes the compressor stop. as i may add, as you have said it is winter there, a thermostat setting could be an issue. the heater could probably not cope up with the coldness of the ambient temperature in which i may suggest to put the thermostat setting to the lowest setting on the knob. i hoped i was able to help....drcool

Posted on Feb 05, 2008

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: freezer fine /After power went out twice fridge not cold enough

In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel behind which is the compressor. Listen for a hum and a click. If you hear those sounds the compressor may have failed. Behind that same panel is a condenser where heat is removed from the refrigerating system. Make sure it is clean and check that the fan operates when the compressor runs.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: ge mod.pde18lzpbww.defrost tray ice buildup every

Remove the rear panel inside the freezer . Defrost the drain tray whr=ere the drain hole is until water will flow down it . Hot water sometimes helps . Use a small hose inserted into the drain and blow out any debris . Get a Solid ALUMINUM wire about 9 inches long (14-16 guage) and put into the hole as far as possible without using force (bend the wire if necessary) and make a hook with the other end ahich you should hook onto the defrost heater . This ALUMINUM wire will keep the drain hole cleared of ice due to the transfer of heat from the glass defrost heater . Do not make the hook too tight for fear of breaking the glass covering on the heater .

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer is now my fridge, and my fridge doesn't

You mentioned the back of freezer was covered with ice. It sounds like a defrost problem. A problem that has been unseen for quite awhile by the sounds of it. In extreme cases you may have to shut it off completely, unpluged and doors open for 24 hrs. or more. Once the unit has defrosted completely, it will cool normally...for a little while. Check the defrost heater and dts (defrost termination switch) and defrost timer or electronic control. If you're not sure, manual defrosting will by you some time (maybe a week) to have a pro look at it for you. Good luck

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Freezer is frosting and refrigerator is warm.


As far as your freezer frosting up, sounds like a door seal problem, run your fingers along the seam of the door seal, there should be no splits/holes in the seal.
As far as the refrigerator either there is a secondary fan motor, or there is a obstruction blocking the air movement, if the freezer has a bad seal, its suspect ice is still building up.

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Fridge is not cold and freezer is thawing all my frozen food , is compressor gone?


Check if fan in freezer is running as well as fan by the compressor and the compressor itself. Check for any frost buildup on evaporator cover in freezer.

Nov 17, 2011 | GE Refrigerators

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KENMORE REFRIGATOR FREEZER THE FREEZER WORKS FINE THE REFRIGATOR IS WARM


If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Jul 19, 2011 | Kenmore 64802 Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer cools well, refirgator is warm, the vent that brings air from frezer to refrigator has no air movement, ice inside , i broke some ice with knife shoul di spray hot water to get rid rest , I did...


This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

Most units have ONE COMPRESSOR which usually cools the FREEZER. Then, to cool the fridge area, there is a DUCT or ducts between the freezer and the fridge area to move some small amount of very cold freezer air into the fridge section. In the old days this occurred by convection, but most newer units have a small fan in the duct to more dependably move the air.

The run time of the compressor, and thus the temperature of the freezer is usually controlled by a THERMOSTAT [usually with numbers on the dial]. A second control [usually with the letters A, B, C, and sometimes even D] operates either a DAMPER in the duct, or controls the duration of fan operation in order to control the temperature in the fridge section.

Under certain conditions of higher humidity, FROST [fine ice crystals] can build up in the duct, and on the fan if there is one, reducing or totally blocking the cold air flow from the freezer to the fridge section.

From your description of the freezer working well, but the fridge section being "warm" suggests that blockage of the duct is what has happened. However, there are a couple of other possibilities:

1. You inadvertantly moved the fridge control to a warmer setting,
2. You inadvertantly placed something in the freezer and/or fridge which BLOCKED the entrance or exit of the duct,

IF one of the above are the cause, a "manual" defrost of a few hours with the freezer and fridge doors open to allow warmer air in should melt out any frost/ice from the duct and allow the system to work properly. Depending on the severity of the frost/ice buildup, it could take a couple of days to fully melt all the frost/ice.

During the manual defrost ALL frozen and perishable foods should be temporary stored in an ice chest or cooler of some kind.

One more thing, in addition to heavy humidity, frost/ice buildup can also be caused by a defective automatic DEFROST TIMER. IF the system does not do its regular defrost cycle [usually an hour or two once in each 24 hours], then frost/ice buildup can occur even with "normal" humidities.

So, once you have the system back in operation, watch for the normal cycling of the defrost program, and if the problem continues, contact a qualified refrigeration repair technician to repair or replace the defrost TIMER.

Jul 13, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The refrigerator is not cooling properly. We have turned the setting to coldest and it is still too warm. The freezer seems to be working fine.


Top of Form

If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jul 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Iv got a fridge freezer frost free hotpoint the freezer is keeping frozen but my frige is warm all the time can u please tell me what the problem could be please.



If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jul 05, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My admiral fridge freezer has suddenly become warm. Freezer is defrosting and fridge is warm. Lights are still on so there is power.


Check your compressor area for lint buildup. Is the fan running down there?aa4623f.jpg Is the compressor running? Both should be running when the control is calling for cool and the inside fan is running. Looks for signs of distress associated with the compressor relay.7842c79.jpg4e4f405.jpg If all of that is good. Look for frost buildup on the freezer wall, a sure sign of a defrost problem. Remove the freezer service panel and look for frost buildup. You could have a bad heat or terminator.644d73c.jpg

Jun 27, 2010 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Water on floor


I had this problem with our 2 door frost-free LG fridge (model GR-B207EC). Perhaps you also notice a regular ice buildup in the bottom of the freezer compartment?

My solution was to switch off the fridge and unplug it from the wall, unload the freezer compartment and remove the white plastic back panel inside the freezer compartment. The panel has arrows marked around the edges where the catches are that hold it in place. Carefully flex out the panel at the catches using a large flat blade screwdriver if necessary. Ice buildup can make removal of this panel more difficult.

Behind this back panel is a condenser, under which is a silver tray, which is designed to catch the drops which fall from the condensor (this is the 'frost-free' part of the fridge). I found mine solidly frozen with ice and used a low-heat setting on a heat gun to melt the ice. In the absence of a heat gun a hair dryer will work fine, but don't melt the plastic components of the fridge. (It is also unadvisable to chip away ice with a knife of other sharp implement as you can easily slip and damage yourself or the fridge).

After fully defrosting the tray (this will take some time), including the drain hole in the base of the tray (pour a small amount of warm water in the tray and make sure it drains readily), reassemble the fridge components and restock your fridge. Remember to plug it back in and switch it on.

No more water leaks.

As an alternative to this fix ... if you have the luxury of being able to transfer the contents of your fridge to another fridge and not have to use the leaky one for a while ... empty the fridge and freezer, unplug it from the wall, leave the doors open for a week in a warm location. I didn't use this method but I reckon a week would be long enough to defrost the ice buildup behind the back panel of the freezer and allow the water to drain, yielding the same result.

Feb 28, 2010 | LG Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidaire plht189sska top freezer fridge problem. Freezer is cold, fridge is warm. About a month ago, had the problem of frost build up in freezer, water pooling under veggie bins, warm fridge. ...


If the defrost heating element, defrost timer or evaporater fan weren't working, you'd develop a block of ice on the evaporator. Is the compressor running? If it is, it might have bad valves from the frost buildup scenario. Liquid refrigerant could have gotten to the suction valves. The sealed system should have a five year warranty. Might be time to call a pro

Sep 15, 2009 | Frigidaire PLHT189CSB Stainless Steel Top...

2 Answers

My Daewoo FRS2021IAL has a warm fridge


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Aug 26, 2009 | Daewoo Refrigerators

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