Question about GE PSW23PSRSS Side by Side Refrigerator
Compressor generating a bunch of heat. No apparent frost buildup. Shall I shut the entire fridge down to "re-set" everything?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Evaporator coils frosting up
the frosting of the back compartment of the freezer indicates that the ice builds up at the evaporator ( the coil that cools). the system is supposed to melt the ice after a particular time interval for a period of time in order to start another cycle. im not sure if that model uses the electronic timer which you can not manually adjust to see if it is heating up on the heating mode. you would have to check three things. one is the defrost heater itself if it has continuity. another is the thing that we called thermodisc . its a part of the heating circuit where it cuts the heating current after it senses that the temperature of the evaporator is way up the thaw temperature. it is normally connected in series with the defrost heater and it is attached to the latter part of the evaporator tube. lastly which as i have told you is the timer. if its a mechanical timer, then probably it is not going to the heating mode. another is the electronic timer which is very hard to trouble shoot. you have to really observe the refrigerator how long it is running and if the compressor is stopping and the heater working by looking at the back if water is draining after a few minutes the compressor stop. as i may add, as you have said it is winter there, a thermostat setting could be an issue. the heater could probably not cope up with the coldness of the ambient temperature in which i may suggest to put the thermostat setting to the lowest setting on the knob. i hoped i was able to help....drcool
Posted on Feb 05, 2008
In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel behind which is the compressor. Listen for a hum and a click. If you hear those sounds the compressor may have failed. Behind that same panel is a condenser where heat is removed from the refrigerating system. Make sure it is clean and check that the fan operates when the compressor runs.
Posted on Jun 09, 2008
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer . Defrost the drain tray whr=ere the drain hole is until water will flow down it . Hot water sometimes helps . Use a small hose inserted into the drain and blow out any debris . Get a Solid ALUMINUM wire about 9 inches long (14-16 guage) and put into the hole as far as possible without using force (bend the wire if necessary) and make a hook with the other end ahich you should hook onto the defrost heater . This ALUMINUM wire will keep the drain hole cleared of ice due to the transfer of heat from the glass defrost heater . Do not make the hook too tight for fear of breaking the glass covering on the heater .
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
You mentioned the back of freezer was covered with ice. It sounds like a defrost problem. A problem that has been unseen for quite awhile by the sounds of it. In extreme cases you may have to shut it off completely, unpluged and doors open for 24 hrs. or more. Once the unit has defrosted completely, it will cool normally...for a little while. Check the defrost heater and dts (defrost termination switch) and defrost timer or electronic control. If you're not sure, manual defrosting will by you some time (maybe a week) to have a pro look at it for you. Good luck
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
If there is no cooling
at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that
the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it
powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is
seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2
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