The unit fails to play back recently burnt discs , other music systems will not play them either . The discs are of the printable type . I have tried blank discs from another pack , but still no good . The drive does work however with re-writable discs , both writing and reading . When I load a pre-recorded music cd, the drive sounds as if it is hunting back and forth across the disc for a start, but does not find one . I have tried un-installing and re-installing the driver , but it makes no difference . There does not appear to be an update for this driver . The drive is approx 8 years old , and the system was originally windiws 98se , but has been windows xp sp2 for about a year , with no drive problems until now . Is it time time replace the drive unit , and with what ?or is there something else to diagnose ? Look forward to your reply , cheers , Tony .
Re: FAILURE OF CD READ/WRITE UNIT SONYCD-RWCRX140E
sir r u confotable to open odd(optical disk drive ).i m telling procedure for desktop odd.then plz open odd by opening screw &plastic locks.plz clean lens if issue not resolved then see on base of lens. u will see a preset plz rotate preset in anticlock wise direction. u r issue definetly resolves .
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Re: FAILURE OF CD READ/WRITE UNIT SONYCD-RWCRX140E
ur problm seems small...it can be fixed sir...
may be dust particies on u r drive lence...../drive lence works as our eye do...
u can clean u r drive lence by cd lence cleaner.....may be u r problem will be solved...
if it doesnt work u can replace u r drive...
buy a new combo drive will be better for u....
in combo drive u can play cd & dvd and write-cd
Regards & best of luck
for more information on this topic u can mail me too firstname.lastname@example.org
sir if u r problemis solved then let me know by VOTING me.....
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there are 2 parts of a UPS . the charge side and (battery is obvious) the inverter side. if the charger fails, all is lost. (are the batteries in backwards?) if the charger works (volt meter tells you that) then the inverter is bad. (this unit is not full time UPS , but part time, this means it switches over to inverter at power fail. (on full time sys. inverter runs full time, like the name states) the unit, you mean the load right.? the UPS side plugged into a load. and the load is now dead.
the Backup plugs should work if the mains are hot. if you kill mains, the inverter will fire off, (hear the squeal?) and give you 500 watts for some minutes, sucking the batteries dry. (see load run time curves) I used to do service on HUGE UPS systems, some with 100s of batteries. 3 to 5kw too. on ours there is a port on the rear , we connect and can check everything "BEST brand" even charge voltage. did you look on APC site for special software and connections?
the manual does cover trouble shooting, ever read that? RTM? start there, its online, for sure.
It sounds like your unit is not happy. When these things fail, they alarm and they must do so, or they don't get fixed, and then you're unprotected...
What fails usually is the battery, they just have a short life...So, they can be repaired, but most people replace, due to low cost to replace.
It is possible that the battery is okay, in which case, the issue is in the electrics. Again, fixable, but hard to have a tech open the unit and put in any part, and not be 3/4 the cost of a new unit.
If your unit is expensive, start testing, or send unit in. .....So, now what for your system? Again, replacement just works. You put the system down, replace the unit, power back on, and continue your life.
inside your unit there are 2 power boards that convert a lot of current to and from the battery - complete failure on one of theses boards is a common problem and it's a terminal one. if the mains power board has failed then yes, it has indeed overstressed the wall plug and you will have to completely replace it as soon as possible.
Forgive me if this seems too simple, but there is a circuit breaker button on the back of the unit. Did you press that button back in to make sure that there was not a surge or something that could have knocked it out?
Two possibilities come to mind. 1) The battery has failed and can't be charged fully (usually one cell fails and it won't charge fully). I've diagnosed this by removing the battery and trying to charge it with a variable power supply. You can try replacing the battery. 2) The UPS itself is faulty and can't charge/maintain the battery. The entire unit should be replaced.
I recommend solution 2. I had the 725VA in this consumer UPS line and when I replaced the battery, the UPS could not keep the battery charged with any load on the unit.
Check your warranty, though. The APC warranty is for 2 years on this model.
Ok, 3-4 years is a much as you can expect from an ups battery so replacement is indicated. The beeps are letting you know the battery is not able to keep up with demand. So either you have recently added to the system or the battery/s failing.
Is the unit running on battery power? A hum is normal when the inverter is running.
if it is CONSTANTLY making a humming noise, it is possible the unit is failing. Check your battery inside the unit, make sure it does not look swollen at all. If it is, you know the unit is failing and overcharging the battery. If it is not, pull the power cable from the outlet and see if it provides back up power and then plug it back in.
If the connected equipment stays on line, then the unit is working fine however I would consider buying a replacement UPS in the near future, a constant hum all the time is a bad sign.
Go into the control panel and find the device manager. Then locate the UPS unit and right click and update driver. Then pick roll-back driver. This should install the prevous driver that was working properly. Then when you do windows update make sure to set it to hide that update so you don't re-install it again.
internal failure possibly on power side, lower than 300A fault current so unit could not trip i/p protection and as fault was post ac section, continued to burn internally. it just broke no breakers tripped out so it kept drawing current until the fault burnt away.
maybe this is what happened, need to know a lot more info to change hypothisis
I would suspect "dirty" power to be the cause. You might want to measure & monitor what the voltage levels are that you're getting from that particular mains source. Either it is already below the set threshhold to switch to battery, or it dips below it, and never comes up enough to reach the threshhold to return back to AC power.