We have the same problem with our mitre saw, the laser line is about 2 mm off a straight cut line and no adjustments seem to solve this. Is there a trick? Otherwise the saw is useless to us - we're making small boxes and every millimeter counts.
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205 and 210 mm blades are the modern equivalent of the 8" blade. I too wanted a finer cut blade in my mitre saw. I had stock of a couple of 8 inch blades but when trying to fit them I found a 205 went in but a 210 wouldn't. I preferred the 210 so I had to modify the guard a little.
As your blade is already 210 mm you probably won't have any problems with an 8 inch blade or either of the metric equivalents, though it is unlikely a larger blade will fit, if you can find one. The blade designed for cutting laminate provides just about the finest cut.
Sometimes there are stops to be adjusted and sometimes things need to be eased with a file.
One of my mitre saws had the same problem which I cured by fitting a different blade that was just a couple of mm bigger diameter - possibly the difference between a metric blade and an imperial...
using a set square , The angle if 45 degrees is machined into the handle draw a line at 45 degrees across the surface you wish to mitre cut
clamp a piece of timber along that line and use it as a guide to cut with the circular saw
Few budget tools and especially generic, brand engineered tools imported from the far east are superbly accurate but tend to be "near enough".
You didn't say whether it is a hand operated mitre saw or a power saw.
Most power mitre saws have a number of stops that can be adjusted or filed in order to calibrate the angles and this process should be done when the saw arrives. Once both 45 degree angles have been calibrated accurately the angles in between should fall into place fairly well.
One problem with low cost mitre (chop) saws, even some so-called professional saws is the construction is so light, when pulling down the handle the machine flexes and spoils the cut. This is especially true when the handle is not set exactly in line with the blade or when not paying full attention when making a cut.
Having experienced such saws I have learned much about them so when I visit a tool store I examine their stock by twisting, rocking and pulling the saw heads and the amount of movement in many new saws of popular brands is disgusting, even some pretending to be premium brands. So far only a few of the most expensive types have impressed me.
That doesn't mean the others are unusable and with care fairly accurate cuts can be made when a suitable technique has been developed - like using a rifle with bent sights...
The bevel is an angle fiding tool. it consists of a wooden section about 4" long with a swivel bolt at one end connected to a slotted metal blade (similar to a 1 foot steel ruler). The bolt has a wing nut and bolt to allow loosenig to allow the blade to rotate and slide to the required angle where it is locked into position using the wing nut.
The mitre is a wooden block with slots cut into it at pre determined angles. ie 45 degrees. When cutting a mitre joint the wood is placed against the block and the saw follows the line of the slot cutting the 45 degree angle.
Hope this makes sense and good luck
rotating the laser in its' housing moves it left and right. The hexagonal bolt on the sides needs to be loosened to do this, then it can also be adjusted up and down. Make sure the trigger to the saw is locked before doing this.