After turning off oven control panel gets exteamly hot and the f-23 code comes up. the cooling fan is running until the oven temp gets below 300 after that is when the control area gets too hot to touch
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There is a cooling fan for upper and lower oven they run at the same time no matter which oven in use it is fed from the oven manager no way to trouble shoot without pulling oven out some models use same fan for both so you could have a blower on hand remove back panels to access fans take a lead off fan to determine which one noisey
Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
In some cases I have had to replace both the touch pad and power relay board. Expensive! HOWEVER, I have, on occasion, found the wide ribbon from the touch pad to the relay board to be at fault. I have not found replacements for these as of yet. I have been able to "open" the ribbon to clean the contacts within and reassemble it to find everything working. Needless to say, my clients have been extremely happy with my ability to do so, saving them thousands if having to replace the entire unit. I found the bad connection when the lighting was dim and I saw a "flash" at the point ribbon it inserted in the end piece. Hope this helps.
Hello & Welcome to FixYa Error code F1 is displayed due to electronic oven control failure and the only way to solve this problem is by replacing the electronic control/clock assembly. You can try ebay for a new part and check this video for repair: Please get back to me if you have any other questions. Kevin
Most of these ovens have two fans. A fan forced fan in the oven and a cavity extractor fan inside the cavity of the unit between the outer skin and the oven wall. The cavity fan blows hot cavity air out the front of the unit so it remains cool. If the orange indicator light is coming on this would normally be the oven element thermostat. Leave it on and see if it gets hot. If the light goes off when you select the function switch it means you are turning it off the oven function. Your interior oven light may be blown. Hope this helps.
Hello. There is a temperature sensor built into the control board, and the temp in that area, is getting too hot. On the back of the unit, right top, there is a cooling fan that comes on at a certain temperature, if the intake is clogged, you will get this error, clean the intake. Inside the unit may be so dirty, it may require cleaning as well. The fan itself could be bad, and does not run, then it will need replacement. Hope that helps, and thank you.
3 to 4 hours is a long time. Get to the fans (behind the control panel) and check the screens for dust. Chances are the screens are clogged with dust and need to be cleaned so the fans can move air for cooling better. I had this problem on my GE JTP14, and after cleaning just one fan it can keep up with cooling the electronic area while the oven is running. It runs much less often.
Safety first! cut the breaker before removing anything with a nice conductive screwdriver! Hope this helps!