Question about Washing Machines
Overfilled the washer, could hear the drive belt squeaking and could smell rubber. Shut off the unit, disconnected power, motor will not run at any position on dial settings. Water still fills, nothing else seems to. Have found one glass type fuse for the door latch, it still looks viable (not melted). No other fuses can be found. The belts don't appear to be broken or overly worn (replaced two years ago). Of course if the motor isn't running the belts are not the problem... :)
Could it be the motor switch? The motor? Is there another fuse somewhere? Please advise.
Thank you so much!
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: MAH4000AWQ MAYTAG WASHER
NGAFM1 AT YOUR SERVICE
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE AT FIXYA.COM BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Since it isn't agitating (I assume not at all rather than just the top part of the agitator. If just the top part isn't turning then the easiest solution is replacing the 4 "agitator dogs" ) the solution points to a couple of places.
1. The motor coupler may be broken.
This piece is a fail safe between the motor and transmission. and basically transmits power to the transmission.
Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor plate to check the motor Coupler.
If it spins and drains OK, and if you can hear the motor turning, the problem points to the transmission.
Inside the transmission are a number of gears, springs, and plastic cams and levers. Over time one of them may have either broken or worn out.
Following is a Whirlpool PDF on how top load, direct drive washers work.
There is a Whirlpool site with a parts list for their "commercial washer" which is essentially the same as for your washer. On it is a list of all of the components and parts for the washer.
By paging down to and following the diagram of the transmission you should be able to determine which actual part is broken.
If you've determined that the transmission is the problem, the solution points to either the Agitate Cams, Agitate Gear of the Agitate Gear Spring.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 02, 2016 | Maytag Legacy Series Top Load Washer
Apr 21, 2015 | Haier Washing Machines
Sep 18, 2014 | Maytag Washing Machines
Jan 25, 2013 | Maytag 3.3 cu. ft. Oversize Capacity Plus...
Aug 08, 2012 | Maytag HAV3460AWW Top Load Washer
Jun 30, 2011 | Maytag Washing Machines
Jul 26, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer
Jun 22, 2017 | Maytag Washing Machines
Sep 15, 2009 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer
May 22, 2018 | Simpson Washing Machines
349 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!