How to thread film in Lumina MX33?

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Spec says it's auto-load. From what I recall of my own projector, you mount the input film reel on the front 'arm', extending it as necessary to give clearance, switch on the projector, then feed the free end of the film into the appropriate orifice at the front of the projector.
It then takes over, feeds the film through and wraps it around the take-up spool automatically. It may be necessary to cut the end of the leader on a diagonal to feed it in (not each time the film is loaded, just the first time.)
Once the film has fed through, switch on the lamp, focus and enjoy.

Look it up on the net

Is your film super 8mm? If yes, then the red sprocket above the lens should be pushed in, and the bottom black sprocket will stick out. If you have regular 8mm, then the black bottom sprocket should be pushed in. If the sprockets are not in the correct position, push the green lever forward (towards the screen) then open the two orange tabs, then push in the correct sprocket. Once you have the correct sprockets aligned, close the orange tabs. How to tell if you have 8mm or super 8mm film: Look carefully at the film image. If the sprocket hole is next to the middle of the image, it's super 8mm. If the sprocket hole is between images, it's 8mm.

Is your film super 8mm? If yes, then the red sprocket above the lens should be pushed in, and the bottom black sprocket will stick out. If you have regular 8mm, then the black bottom sprocket should be pushed in. If the sprockets are not in the correct position, push the green lever forward (towards the screen) then open the two orange tabs, then push in the correct sprocket. Once you have the correct sprockets aligned, close the orange tabs. How to tell if you have 8mm or super 8mm film: Look carefully at the film image. If the sprocket hole is next to the middle of the image, it's super 8mm. If the sprocket hole is between images, it's 8mm. If your green lever is stuck in the forward position, that's because the film is not threaded. Once your film threads correctly, the green lever will spring back.

As this problem is not relevant to "Motherboards" you might like to post it in the right category. But, you might like to check for wear on the drive wheel (rubber) they become shiny over time and this will decrease the friction needed to move the film stock. Rubber is and organic compound and as such it deteriorates, my Akai reel to reel did a similar thing a few years ago and the part was no longer available, so I made one( re-engineered the old one actually). good luck

all projectors thread differntly. i can transfer the footage to DVD for you. Call me for price, 718-268-6440 continental photo, 10am - 6pm mpn - sat

5-2 THREADING the LAMINATOR
1. Remove the supply roll mandrels and the feed tray. The supply roll mandrels are now ready to accept
loading of the film rolls, wound with the polyester (shiny) side out. When viewed from the front of the
machine, the core grippers on both the top and bottom supply roll mandrels should point toward the
heat shoes (and toward each other). The tension control knobs should be positioned on the right. Notice the
knobs are labeled "Top Right" and "Bottom Right". If you have rolls of film on which the material is wound
in the opposite direction (adhesive or dull side out) exchange the top and bottom supply roll mandrels so
the core gripper positions are reversed.
2. Slide a roll of film onto the top supply roll mandrel, turning the roll slightly to slide the gripper inside the
core. Center the roll. Make sure the dull side of the film is facing up and the shiny side is facing the
heat shoes during the threading. Scored marks on the supply roll mandrels provide a guide for proper
alignment of the two rolls of film to each other.
NOTE: The pointed metal pieces protruding from the body of the supply roll mandrels grip the cardboard core of the film supply roll to prevent slippage. When placing a roll of film on the mandrel, twist the film supply roll to
accommodate easier film loading.
3. With the roll aligned with the scored line on the right side of the mandrel, place it in the top bracket.
Place the left side of the shaft in its slot first then place the right side of the shaft in its slot, turning it as
needed. FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDED LOADING PROCEDURES CAREFULLY WHEN THREADING
FILM IN THE LAMINATOR. ACCURATE ALIGNMENT OF ROLLS WILL MINIMIZE WASTE AND HELP KEEP
THE LAMINATOR CLEAN.
4. While the machine is still cold, review the threading diagram. With the bottom roll of film centered on
the mandrel and the shiny side facing down, run the film under the bottom idler bar and pull towards
you.
5. Load and thread the top roll of film in the same manner as the bottom roll. Refer to the threading diagram. The
film should run under the silver stabilizer bar and over the front of the top heat shoe. Remember, the shiny
side of the film must always go against the shoe. The dull (adhesive) side must face away from the shoe.
Make sure the two rolls are aligned with each other before going to the next step.
6. Turn machine on and heat to the desired temperature.
7. With both rolls threaded and installed in their respective brackets, unwind enough film from the top roll
to reach the bottom of the bottom heat shoe. Next, unwind enough film from the bottom roll to reach the
top of the top heat shoe.
8. Now drape the film from the bottom roll against the film from the top roll on the top shoe. If the laminator is
hot, the exposed adhesive on the top web will hold the bottom web and make it easy to stick the two rolls
together. If you are threading the machine while it is cold, use tape to stick the bottom web against the top
web.
9. Tip the safety shield down into the laminating position. With the film draped over the two heat shoes, push
one edge of the threading card between the heat shoes so that the film is firmly positioned against the
laminating rollers. If a threading card is not available, any piece of card stock or poster board will work.
10. Make sure there is still enough slack in the web. Turn the drive switch to FORWARD, permitting the film and
feed board to pass through both sets of rubber rollers. Carefully monitor initial threading to be sure the web
reaches and passes through the pull (back) rollers. When the threading card has cleared the back of the
machine, move the drive switch to the center position (off). Whenever you want to remove the film and/or
laminated material from the back of the machine, use the zippy cutting tool provided with the laminator.
11. Slide the feed tray into position.
12. If the machine has the slitter option, make sure the slitters are disengaged (blades in the raise
position) and moved all the way to either side of the machine.
CAUTION: The laminator is designed to be run with the operator directly facing the
control panel and feed tray, not at an angle or from the side of the machine. For
operator safety, the safety shield must be in position over the upper heat shoe
when the machine is ON, or when the drive switch is in the forward position.

couter clock wise! some times you might have to aply heat to get them to free up.

There is a small plastic gear that disintegrates with age on these units. The gear is worn and cannot turn the larger gear to thread the film. Good luck finding parts. There is one place that sells parts but I think they gauge the public