Question about Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side Refrigerator with FrontFill Ice and Water

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Amana Fridge defrost mode

Amana refrigerator goes into defrost mode after the power blinks off, I can unplug it for an hour and plug it back up and it cools again, it is a side by side model number ARSE667BW.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Techsim
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling

Check the damper in the top back of the fresh food section. make sure that it is open and air is coming through it.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling

You model if the ARB1950C has a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. Need to see if you can manualy turn the timer clockwise until the compressor stops. During that time of 25 minutes the freezer should be in defrost. I believe your timer needs replaced based on how you explained what is happening. The part number for your timer is 67001036 and can be found at the links below. If it stays longer that 25 minutes then it's sticking in the defrost section of the defrost timer and will need to be replaced. If your refrigerator does not restart after about 25 minutes then slowly turn the timer through the opening in the plastic cover. There may be a plug covering the hole to make the hole not so visible. If you should have problems fell free to let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
appliancepartsse@yahoo.com

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/


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Posted on Aug 17, 2009

dnewcombe1
  • 1564 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator refuses to cool or freeze

Pull the base front panel off. Inside using a flashlight look for a small motor abnout the diameter of lashlight and about one and a half inches tall. This unit will have a slot for a large flatblade screwdriver. Turn the slot (CLOCKWISE ONLY) until you hear a slight click. If your fridge fires up than you need a new "Defrost timer" if it does not than you've got bigger problems. Give the test about ten minutes time then feel the freezer walls, they should be cold. Thank you, Dana

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Amana refrigerator defrost timer is supposed to

My Amana bottom freezer keeps buliding ice and not defrosting at all I have to manually defrost about every 4 to 6 weeks.

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

SOURCE: I have an Amana fridge bx20s5w that is not cooling the refrig part and runs much to much.

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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We have a Kenmore Elite Freezer Model #253.29082994. We had the freezer plugged in and it was working fine. We unplugged it and moved it and now when we plug it in it won't start. Is there some kind of...


You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

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Yes , this is to confirm that the defrosting happens as the vents might be clogged due to malfunction of the defrost timer not acting and so frost will form on the vent to prevent flow of cold air to the fridge.
If after about 8 hours the fridge works perfectly then the defrost timer , the heater or the thermostat is faulty.

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This could be a double problem.
Yes the auto defrost cycle seems to have failed allowing an ice build up.
Secondly the door seal is leaking allowing warm moist air to sneak in. You probably need a door gasket too.

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unplug the fridge and open the doors and let it defrost.
plug it back in after a few hours and it should be working again.

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Most likely evaporator coils are iced near solid...few hours unplugged would have helped just a little...needs major defrosting though.
The automatic defrost cycle will never fix it when it gets this bad...if it's still working yet.

I have one of these and have had to use heat gun/ hair dryer more than once to defrost it.

Probably the cause...which will need fixed or it will do it again sooner or latter...is the melted frost/ice goes down a little drain tube and dumps into tray to evaporate above coils...this tube gets plugged first with dust and then when melted frost drains and stands in tube the tube get plugged with frozen water.

You see it is important to unplug or fridge will self destruct.

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You will need to replace the electronic mother board which is located in the back of the refrigerator,Inside rectangular cover near the bottom left.

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you may try hard restart by shuting the fridge off and unplugging it from the wall . plug in back in and after 5 min turn it back on . close both doors and wait one hour . check the temp. if the unit still will not respond calll the local woranty amana repairman only. hope this helps you

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