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Intertherm furnace explosive burner ignition

Unit has a standing pilot. Pilot light ok. When unit kicks on does not immediately light. Unit then kicks on with loud noise. Has even blown access latch and door open. If leave access door open burner immediately lights. Have checked chimney and pulled vent pipe off the top of the unit
to clear fresh air intake on chimney/vent pipe. Was some debris there when cleaned. Had a furnace guy come over and charge us $160 to vacuum around the fresh air intake/outside of the double walled vent pipe and tell us it might be plugged where he can't get to it and to buy a new furnace. Can it be dismantled to get to where it's may be plugged? Do you think that is the real problem? Intertherm series 1100 propane furnace

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You absolutely must stay with Therin's recommendation. You do have a block or a cracked heat exchanger and this is nothing to toy with. Carbon Monoxide is very serious and dangerouos. All of your new furnaces should be power ventilated and you need to retire that one.

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

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Cheman, yes this is a real problem. Not only will it get worse, it could kill you and your family. If there is a blockage inside the heat exchanger where your technician could not reach, you would not do much better and may cause more problems if you do. If you continue to run this furnace, you will create Carbon Monoxide and it will kill you over a very short time.

Stick with yor technicians recommendation and get a replacement unit. Go with a direct vent unit and a higher efficiency than this old clunker.

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

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1 Answer

My furnace keeps making an explosion when it ignites


The amount of gas buildup is too great. Make sure the burner ports are clear right next to the pilot light area. - run a small wire into the holes to make sure they are clear then make sure the pilot light is burning into the area next to the burner. A bit of whoosh is to be expected but if it becomes too great it will blow the pilot light out. Sears wall furnaces are prone to this the burners have to be kept clean

Feb 02, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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Furnace and pilot will not stay lit


The tube is gas supply for pilot. You have to make sure the thermocouple is in the flame at least half way and make sure its tight in the gas valve. There should be a small silver plug on the gas valve near the pilot supply tube. You can pop the cap and adjust the height of the pilot flame a little. Can you tell if it has a flame rod in or above the flame? If it does You can remove it and clean it with steel wool.

Mar 24, 2014 | Intertherm P3RA-060K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Heater is not igniting


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
f there is no heat, check the electrical service panel for a burned fuse or tripped breaker. Relight the pilot light (see below). If there is not enough heat, adjust the burner air shutter (see below); and clean the burner ports (see below).
If the pilot light does not light or does not stay lit, clean the pilot orifice carefully with a toothpick, test the thermocouple and replace it if it is faulty (see below).
If the flame flickers, adjust the pilot (see below).
If there is an exploding sound when the burner ignites, adjust the pilot to a higher setting and clean the pilot orifice and the burner ports.
If the burner takes more than a few seconds to ignite, clean the pilot orifice and adjust the pilot light.
If the burner flame is uneven, clean the burner ports. If the burner flame is very yellow, clean the burner; open vents in the furnace room to provide more air; adjust the burner air shutter.
If the furnace makes a rumbling noise when the burners are off, clean the burner and adjust the burner air shutter.
If the air is too dry, wash or replace the evaporator pad if you have a humidifier; test the humidistat; and adjust the water-level float to raise the water level.
If some rooms are too cool and others too warm, the distribution system may require balancing. Refer to the Forced-Air Distribution Fix-It Guide .

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1 Answer

RHFE Rinnai 551FT gas heater is not working after 7 years


see this steps and fix it. God bless you
.
If there is no heat, check the electrical service panel for a burned fuse or tripped breaker. Relight the pilot light (see below).
If there is not enough heat, adjust the burner air shutter (see below); and clean the burner ports (see below).
If the pilot light does not light or does not stay lit, clean the pilot orifice carefully with a toothpick, test the thermocouple and replace it if it is faulty (see below).
If the flame flickers, adjust the pilot (see below).
If there is an exploding sound when the burner ignites, adjust the pilot to a higher setting and clean the pilot orifice and the burner ports.
If the burner takes more than a few seconds to ignite, clean the pilot orifice and adjust the pilot light.
If the burner flame is uneven, clean the burner ports. If the burner flame is very yellow, clean the burner; open vents in the furnace room to provide more air; adjust the burner air shutter.
To light the pilot on a standing-pilot (always on) ignition system, follow the lighting instructions located near the control. Otherwise, try these steps:
Light the pilot:
  1. gasfurnace1.jpg Press and hold the pilot control knob to start the pilot. Set the control knob to the pilot position. Hold a long match under the pilot gas port.
  2. Press the control knob; the pilot should light. Hold the control knob down until the flame is burning brightly (about 30 seconds). Release pressure on the knob, and turn it to the on position.
  3. If the pilot goes out when you release the control knob, try relighting, holding the control knob down longer. If the pilot again goes out, check the thermocouple (below).
Adjust the pilot:
  1. Remove any cap covering the pilot adjusting screw on a combination control.
  2. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise to increase the flame or clockwise to decrease it. It is correctly adjusted when the flame envelops the thermocouple bulb by 1/2 inch and appears dark blue with a small yellow tip.
Test and replace a thermocouple:
  1. Hold the control knob to pilot and light the pilot as above.
  2. Unscrew the thermocouple fitting with an open-ended wrench.
  3. Set a multimeter to the DVC (lowest voltage) scale.
  4. Clip one multimeter lead to the end of the thermocouple tube nearest the pilot and the other lead to the fitting on the other end of the tube.
  5. If the multimeter shows a reading besides zero, the thermocouple is functioning. Replace the thermocouple tube.
  6. If there is no reading, you will need to clean or replace the thermocouple following steps 7 through 11.
  7. Release the control knob and shut off the main gas valve on the gas-supply pipe that leads into the burner. Shut off power to the burner at the electrical service panel .
  8. Remove the thermocouple from its mounting bracket.
  9. Wipe the combination control clean and install a new thermocouple, tightening it by hand, then give it a one-quarter turn with a wrench.
  10. Insert the thermocouple into the pilot bracket, being careful to not crimp the tubing.
  11. Turn on power to the furnace and relight the pilot (above).
Adjust an adjustable burner air shutter:
  1. Set the thermostat to its highest setting to keep the burner running. Once the furnace has heated up, remove the burner access panel and loosen the locking screw.
  2. Open the shutter by turning it to the right until the blue base of the flame appears to lift slightly from the burner port surface. Then close the shutter until the flame reseats itself on the surface.
Clean removable burner tubes and ports:
  1. Shut off gas and power to the furnace.
  2. Unscrew or loosen and remove the tubes from the supporting bracket.
  3. Carefully clean the tubes with a brush or vacuum, making sure not to damage the burner ports.
  4. Use a stiff wire to clear any debris from clogged ports.

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1 Answer

How do I light an Intertherm furnace Model Number MG 068A?


Hello, if the Furnace is a standing pilot then turn the knob on the gas valve to pilot, you will hear a hissing sound then use a match or a lighter to light it at the thermoouple. Hold the knob on pilot for about 30 seconds and then turn the knob to gas and burners should ignite.

Nov 11, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

William forshaire 435 runs well for awhile until


Try cleaning your thermocouple,and resetting it where was, which is located at the pilot flame. this should solve your problem.

Feb 23, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace quit. Doesn't even run the air intake


Are you sure you have a standing Pilot? You would know if you had to light it. Perhaps you have a hot
surface ignition system, on a call for heat the induced
draft blower will run, then the hot surfave ignitor located on the far right side of burner should glow red
and the burners should light.

Check to make sure the flame rollout switch on the
left side of the burners is not tripped.

Feb 08, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an intertherm gas furnace and it will turn on but it takse almost an hour from the time i turn the heat up until it kicks on. I can hear the click and it sounds like the motor is humming. I have...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 23, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

1 Answer

Weak flame in intertherm furnace


Ok, so we can rule out the ignitor. (standing pilot systems can develop problems that will cause such symptoms.)

Check the gas pressure, make sure you are getting 11 to 14 PSI.

You need that after the regulator all the way to the manifold.

Also check for cracks in the heat exchanger, causing the wind from the blower to distort the flame pattern enough to cause improper contact with the flame sensor.

Make sure the burners and flame channels are clean of rust, and dibri build up, allowing the flame to properly contact the sensors.

Jan 18, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

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