New LG dryer keeps blowing 30 amp fuses, it is connected to a "pony panel" metal box with 2 30 amp fuses. It is itermitant problem. No problem in winter, summer seems to blow every other load. It is less then a year old (the dryer) and is High Efficiency. The pony panel is old. The exhaust run is not very long ( 1 foot to wall then 6 feet up and out)and has 3 x 45 bends to the outside. When the fuse blows, it still spins but blows cold air only. This happened to our old dryer as well (which is why we repalced it). I am thinking we need a new pony panel fuse box, do you have any other ideas?
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Re: new dryer keep blowing 30 amp fuses
Your problem (especially if you are using screw-in "plug fuses") i.e. BUSS fuses and cartridge fuses they get hot and with time the insulating disc that insulates hot from neutral (grnd) breaks down and with dryer current draw it arcs over and in summer its more humid which contributes to moisture,have a new sub(pony) panel if you have no room for another 240volt circuit in your main panel,that should cure your trouble
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usually one of 2 things,either the 240volt heating element is shorting out to the element housing or the dryer drum motor has bad windings or the end bearings are dried out causing the motor to work harder and draw excessive current to start and keep running
I would guess it is a short> possible causes: 1) outlet: turn off breaker to outlet pull cover off and look for burnt or loose wires 2) dryer cord: take back metal plate off of dryer look for burnt or loose wires 3) heating element 4) check all internal wiring for burnt or loose connections
The breaker for the dryer should be a 30 amp breaker, and should only trip that breaker. If it is tripping the main on the panel then something else is wrong. You will need to pull off the panel the the breaker box and pull out the dryer breaker and look to see if it burnt, make sure the wires are tight on the breaker, you may want to try a new breaker also. Hope this helps Tim
if its an old round buss fuse that screws in the panel(especially an old 60 amp panel),sometimes the center where the fuse lands the insulation gets weak in this area and lets it arc over when the dryer calls for current to heat the element replace this with a sub box and breaker set-up.the other thing it can be is the element is touching the units case and grounding out causing the same problem
you may have a dry bearing in the motor or the heating element is shorted to the units case both items will make unit draw excessive current and blow the fuses, also if you are using screw in fuses i.e. 2-30 amp fuses and its in an older 60 amp panel,change it over the contacts get heat cracked and lead to hi-resistance connections and this will also blow fuses from being over hot
yes, after years of current going thru the fuse clips they get hi resistance connectiond and cant supply correct pwr to dryer and this results in blowing fuses especially the time delay fuse because this fuse supplies pwr to both the one side of heating element and the motor simutaneously -replace with a breaker sub panel if not enough room for a circuit in your main panel,that should solve your problem
Hi Matt I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there. Thanks. Len
There is a high probability that when you replaced your fuse box to circuit breakers that the wiring at the fuse box was retightened. If your dryer had been operating Ok for the better part of a year and then you started to blow fuses on a regular basis.. chances are the wiring coming from the fuse box tap was becoming loose from thermal expansion and contraction and that by changing to a breaker system.. your wiring was cut and reterminated to fit the breaker tap. I suspect you won't be having any additional problems...