Wont turn over . New Battery . Voltage all the way to Starter. Cleaned Battery contacts . Have a red wire with a connector that is stripped and have no idea where it goes. Also , seat switch checks out fine. Has anyone posted a Schematic of model 917.275286 ??
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Hi, Brian before you can diagnose any electrical component in the starter circuit your battery must be fully charged to 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced. Your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage and/or a faulty starter relay, your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and may be repaired without removing the starter in most cases and depending on the model of your Harley may require removing the rear exhaust pipe if it's in the way. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidently touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap, secured with 3 screws 1989 and later or 2 screws 1988 and earlier, with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spotweld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Older 350 Rancher Starter will not disengage t660 starter wont disengage Yamaha FZ FZX750 Service Manual 1986 1987 Download Manuals Technical $10 cheap OEM parts for Yamaha http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fz-owners-manuals
I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Hi, Dominic in order to diagnose the starter circuit you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the connectors at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than .5 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than .5 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your volt meter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the 3 screws that secure the solenoid cover and remove the plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. My GL1500 starter stays engaged 78 SHOVEL STARTER STAYS ENGAGED Harley Davidson Forums http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/67825-starter-clutch-stays-engaged.html Starter stays engaged Honda Tech
The symptom you describe sounds like a voltage drop between the starter (ignition) switch and the starter solenoid. Some causes are:
1 Faulty ignition switch - either replace or, if you're mechanically minded, try to strip the switch and clean the contacts. This is a tricky fix because these switches are not made to be serviced.
Before you go there, however, check all the connectors on the wiring harness between the ig. switch and the starter solenoid and clean them if necessary. To make sure you have a voltage drop, connect a volt meter between the battery positive and the starter pick connector, then turn the key to start position. If you measure a voltage, anything more than 1 volt, you have a problem. Another check is measure from the battery negative to the pick wire, Turn the ignition to start, and you should measure 12 volts, not less than 11 v.
Here is a quick check you can try. There are three connections on the starter motor solenoid, two heavy ones and one small one. The small one is the solenoid pick terminal. Remove the wire from this connector and connect a length of wire from the connector and touch the other end to the battery positive terminal. The solenoid should click in and the starter should engage every time you touch the battery terminal.
If this happens, you can be sure the problem is not with the starter.
If all else fails, you could fit a booster relay to the starter.
This involves mounting a relay somewhere near the starter motor. You can get a relay from a scrap yard, most modern vehicles have headlight relays which will work fine, which are mounted on the under hood fuse box. The relay should have two heavy terminals and two smaller terminals..
Run a wire from the battery positive to one of the heavy terminals on the relay, and from the other heavy terminal to the solenoid pick connector. Bring the wire that used to be connected to the pick connector and connect that to one of the small connectors on the relay. The other small connector on the relay goes to ground (any bare metal point). I hope this helps.
Electrical issue.I would imagine you cleaned the cable connectors that you attach to the battery.With the lights blinking,that sounds like a starter issue,but since its new,try replacing the battery cables themselves,double check your wires to the starter,make sure they are tight.Good Luck ! Thank You !
Hi Anonymous, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. how to fix starter problems Just clicks yamaha warrior update and starter... How to diagnose and recognise starter motor problems Service Manual for 2007 Big Dog K9 Big Dog Parts Cruiser Motorcycle manual 2006 K9 pdf
If there is a click when pushing the starter button first check the starter itself by checking for battery voltage at the starter cable when the click is heard. If there is voltage the starter is the problem. If there is silence when the starter button is pushed check for voltage at the small yellow/ red wire on the harness side of the connector for the starter relay. This relay can be found by following the positive battery cable to it. If there is voltage present when pushing the button the relay is most likely bad. If not the right hand handlebar switch may be bad. Hondas have a problem with melting the contacts in the starter button portion of this switch. Open up the switch and jump across the black to the yellow/red terminals on the starter button circuit board. If the starter spins this switch is bad.
I would verify that you are getting correct voltage to starter. Use a digital multimer set to DC volts 20 setting. Measure battery voltage at battery. Then measure voltage from large wire (usually red) on starter to ground. (engine block or bolt attaching starter to engine) if there is more than a small voltage difference, check for corrosion at battery terminals and cables. If not corroded and making good contact, replace positive battery cable to starter. If voltage good at starter, (at least 11.5 Vdc), you could have a bad engine ground. Follow negative cable (black one) from battery to where it bolts onto engine. Remove bolt from engine and clean cable and engine mating surface well. (wire brush will do well) Then re-attatch cable. Then set your multimeter to OHMs 200 setting. Test the cable itself metal ends on cable) from battery to block. Should get a reding of zero ohms resistance. If substantial resistance, replace negative cable. Not the complete diagnostic, but will give you a good start at finding a problem. Mike
Double check the wiring to make sure it has perfect contact on battery, solenoid, voltage regulator (also check the regulator and starter relay) You also may want to check the current on ignition module.