Question about Washing Machines
If this is an Estate top loader, check your lid switch. Since the pump is mechanically driven, it usually is not the problem unless it is clogged. The washer will still run, though, if this were the case. This problem is commonly attributed to a loose or broken lid switch.
If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
NOTE: Some washer models have the lid switch located near either the left or right hinge of the lid. This type of switch is activated by a rod on the hinge pin. If not functioning, it can often be adjusted by bending the hinge rod until it engages the switch.
You can access the drain pump by removing the washer case. The pump is located directly in the front of the washer under the wash tub. It has two hoses attached. All you have to do is remove one of the drain hoses to drain any water. However, before you do that try using a wet dry shop vac on the drain hose by pulling it from the standpipe at the wall and pulling a vacuum on it. This will minimize the need to mop up any water. These wash tubs have a capacity of about 35 gallons. That's a lot of water to bail or try to mop up. If the water drains with a vacuum on the line, the pump probably isn't clogged. NOTE: If the lid switch is defective, you do not have to drain the tub to install a new one. The water will drain once the switch is repaired.
If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS Are you sure you have the model number correct? I tried doing a search on that number and it doesn't cross to anything. I think you may have posted the Serial Number. Please verify and post back with a correct Model Number if this is the case. I would like to be able to confirm how your washer is configured.
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
The lid sw is the most likely culprit, the drain pump is attached to the main drive motor on bottom, and turns whenever the motor is running. This is almost never the problem unless clogged. The lid switch varies based on age. newer models have no visible switch parts and are hidden under the console on the left side actuated by a arm from the hinge. older models (more likely to have a broken lid sw) have a pin on the lid which depresses a switch on the right side of the opening. Find the two philips screws on rear of console going down to top, loosen (they wont remove) and pull console forward and fold back on rear hinges. remove two brass clips holding top to back panel. pull cabinet away from machine (note how side sit on base with hooks and front is under base) switch body is attached by philip screws, harness is cliped to side, connecter is snapped in place. new switch has attached harness and connector. There are different harness lengths and connectors based on model. top is screwed to cabinet
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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