PRO- TECH DRILL PRESS BENCH MODEL

yes, a bent arbor could be causing this... sometimes they can be straightened... or by a new arbor

replace key chuck, go to local hardware and see if they carry them, or contact company who made drill press, chek online internet.

Sears sell chuck keys in all of the common sizes, of which there are only a few. If you have the old key, take it with you. If you don't have the old key then find the diameter of the three holes in the chuck (easy way to do this is to see what size drill fits into those holes) and measure as closely as you can the diameter of the gear you need. This is tapered, so measure (and double) the distance from the center of one of those three holes to the bottom of one of the gear notches on the ring on the chuck. You could also take the drill to the store with you!
Good luck!

The chucks on these drills are put on not only VERY tight but usually with some lok-tite to boost so they don't come off easy. In my shop we usually lock a 1/2" hex driver in the chuck and use a 1/2" impact wrench to knock them loose. It usually takes a few seconds to come loose. Another method is to lock the short end of a 1/2" allen wrench in the chuck so that it sticks straight up with the drill standing up. Then lay the drill on its side with the top at the edge of your bench and the allen wrench sticking over the side of the bench. NOTE: The chuck follows the lefty-loosey, righty-tighty rule, the chuck screw is reverse thread. Have someone firmly hold the drill and then hit the end of the allen wrench until the chuck comes loose. Once you break it free it will spin off easily. You do need to put the new one on with lok-tite and as tight as you possibly can then lok-tite the screw and tighten it as much as you can by hand.

Look at eReplacementParts.com and the parts diagrams

When you buy a replacement chuck it will have detailed instructions- at least Jacob's brand chucks do. Basically there is a retaining screw inside the chuck that needs to come out first- it may be left-hand threads . Then you put the short end of a 1/4" or larger allen wrench in the chuck and close it tightly. Set the drill on a bench with the chuck off of the bench and strike the allen wrench with a mallet in a counterclockwise direction. Do this several times, then you'll be able to spin the chuck off by hand. Reverse the process to install the new chuck.

If there is a chuck bolt in the center (where the bit goes) remove it (left hand thread). The chuck is threaded onto the splindle(right hand thread). On some of those drills they have a small hole in the housing that lines up with a hole in the spindle. Put a pin punch in to lock the shaft so you can unthread the chuck. If you clamp a 3/8" allen wrench in the chuck it acts as a good handle. If there are no holes to lock the chuck, if you lay the drill on a bench and give the allen wrench a sharp blow with a rubber mallet it will unthread the chuck. If the chuck is damaged and will not hold an allen key you will have to cut the spindle off and replace the chuck and spindle.

Hope that helps

If the spindle has a slot in it above the chuck and you can see the top of the chuck arbor in that slot then you need to get a wedged piece of steel commonly called a drift , insert in the slot so it bears on the top of the arbor and the top of the slot and hit it with a hammer. This will knock the tapered arbor loose from the spindle and it should fall out. Hope this helps you.

There is a long tapered hole in the spindle of the press known as a Morse taper. It holds a 6 or 8 inch morse taper arbor which is attached to the drill chuck. This is made to be removed frequently by putting a wedge shaped key into a horizontal hole in the drill press and giving it a little tap. This is for making tool change that involve removing the chuck. If you had two such tools (say two different style chucks) they would each have their own dedicated morse taper arbor. But there is also a short tapered cyclinder on the chuck end of the morse taper arbor, with a matching hole in the back of th chuck. This is not intended to come apart frequently, but it can be disassembled. I'm not sure which one is coming apart, but regardless of which one it is, you might try this fix. Clean up any bumps at all on the oustide of the taper and inside the hole with sandpaper 200 - 300 grit. Use a dowel to hold the sandpaper in the hole, and use the motor to spin it. --- JUST BE CAREFUL that if it grabs that it doesn't grab you! Once it's all cleaned up, you can you the press aspect of the drill press to seat it in place. You also might have to replace the arbor. They don't cost all that much and are available from Grizzly.com. You specify the particular taper for BOTH ends of the arbor. The long end is a Morse 2,3 or 4, and the short end is specific to the drill chuck manufacturer, like JT-2 (Jacobs chuck taper 2). Write back if you need more help.

With the lock screw removed (it's a reverse threaded screw) you can procede with getting the chuck off the drive shaft.


OK, you need to put a 1/4" or larger hex key wrench into the chuck and tighten it in place with the chuck key. Put the short end into the chuck.

Once you've done that, place the drill chuck, only the smooth part, not the part with the teeth, on the edge of a solid workbench. Now hold the chuck with the hex key (long end) at a 30 degree angle off the bench top and strike the hex key with a hammer going counterclockwise (looking at the front of the tool) to loosen the right hand threads that hold the chuck to the shaft (spindle). You should now be able to easily remove the chuck by hand at this point.

Here's link to a manual for your Hole Hawg that will also show a nice illustration of the removal method, to make it a bit easier, as well as giving you other good info about your drill. Print a copy for your files and future reference.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/58-14-1782d9.pdf


That should do it! Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!