Question about General Electric WJRR4170GWW Top Load Washer

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Water hose sprung a leak - washing machine

How hard to replace, can I just go buy a new water line and hook it up without any special tools?

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  • 334 Answers

Hey there, you can pick one up at any local hardware store. you may need some channel locks to loosen the connectios if they don't come off by hand

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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The washer was leaking water not sure where from But now it doesn't work. The water runs for about 20 seconds and then stops. The sensor light comes on and the lid light blinks.


Don't panic when the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor! You can usually fix the problem yourself within and hour or two at a fraction of the cost of calling a service technician. And only rarely will you have to purchase a new machine. CAUTION! Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-0.jpg

Figure A: Common leak locations

These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.

Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!

Replace leaky supply hoses
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-2.jpg The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Replace leaky internal hoses

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-5.jpg
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

Replace a leaky pump

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-9.jpg

Photo 1: Loose the bolts

Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.

Replace worn-out tub fittings
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-14.jpg

Photo 1: Lift the lid

Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-20.jpg Buying Appliance Parts Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is http://promotionssales.weebly.com/ find your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Aug 27, 2016 | Washing Machines

Tip

How to repair washing machine easily


Figure A: Common leak locations
These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.
Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!
Back to Top
Replace leaky supply hoses
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines. " title="Unscrew the water supply hoses " style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.
CAUTION!
Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Back to Top
Replace leaky internal hoses
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again. " title="Photo 1: Look inside the machine" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again.
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.
Back to Top
Replace a leaky pump
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby. " title="Photo 1: Loose the bolts" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.
Back to Top
Replace worn-out tub fittings
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back. " title="Photo 1: Lift the lid" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Buying Appliance Parts
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source iswww.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.
Metal ID plate
Back to Top
Tools & Materials
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start-you'll save time and frustration.
Hammer
Socket/ratchet set
4-in-1 screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Putty knife
Slip joint pliers


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write_tip-qieuuny1camcyiyiyqi3jbf4-2-9.jpg


write_tip-qieuuny1camcyiyiyqi3jbf4-2-14.jpg

on Jul 14, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine leaking underneath


might simply be a small hole in the outlet drainage hose, this would explain why your machine leaks during the final spin, there is more pressure from the water inside the hose during the final spin than when the machine is draining. hope this helps.

Nov 11, 2013 | Hoover Washing Machines

2 Answers

Lg intellowasher wd-8015c won't drain?


Most probably pump is blocked or the hose is blocked. Put drain hose lower or the blades are broken. It is not that hard to check if you know where the pump is and you can take it off without requiring special tools.

Aug 01, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking from middle of machine is there a seal in there


yes there is but you need special tools to replace it.So if you dont have the tools it will cost you more to fix it than buy a new unit.Sorry..

Jun 06, 2011 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

When I hook of the water hoses to the back of washing machine and turn on the water, water spews out of hose


Hello Ifox5858,

I understand that when you hook up the hose to the back of your washing machine that the water comes out of the hose. The problem that you are having may be because of washers are missing out of the hose ends. You need to take the hoses off and look and see if you have rubber washers in the side that is leaking. The washers are standard water hose washers you can buy at any hardware store.

1. Place washer in hose
2. Install hose hand tight
3. Turn a quarter turn with wrench
4. Turn water on check for leaks if leaking slowly turn tighter to leak stops

This should fix your problem.

Thank you for choosing FIxya.com

Justin

Mar 16, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water is leaking from bottom of unit, getting worse everyday


Probably the hosse from the boiler inside the unit. Mine has sprung a leak too and on opening up the top of the unit the hose had sprung a leak within an inch of the steamer line it is connected to. Trouble is getting the hose. I cant find one in Canada where i am, but there is availability at http://www.shop.partsguru.com/16000190-Silicone-hose-each-High-temp-braided-16000190.htm Trouble is how long before the problem redevelops? I tried another hose, but it got way too hot that i didnt trust it and you could see a steam bubble sitting right where the original hose leaked, so it makes me think that is why the original hose leaked.

Dec 09, 2010 | Saeco Starbucks Sirena Espresso Machine

1 Answer

Washing machine leeks and doesnt complete cycle


When the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor, you face a tough choice. Either call a service technician to fix the problem or purchase a new machine. Both decisions are expensive. Most service technicians charge $50 to $100 just to walk in the door and diagnose the problem, and labor expenses can quickly accumulate. After receiving the final bill, you may even wish you’d replaced the machine!
TIP: Make sure the water on the floor isn’t the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens! 
There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive.
If you open up the cabinet and don’t find any belts, then you’ve got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit.
The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner’s manual or diagrams (see “Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
First, Replace Leaky Supply Hoses
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
Second, Replace Leaky Internal Hoses
If the supply hoses aren’t leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct-drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks. Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you’ll find the leaks in the spots we show inFigure A.

Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can’t get it, you’ll need a special $15 hose clamp pliers available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp. If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

CAUTION: Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under “Appliance Parts.”) Try to find a parts supplier with a well-informed staff, ideally ex–repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is www.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.

You’ll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Third, Replace a Leaky Pump
Fourth, Replace Worn-Out Tub Fittings

The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it’s the air dome seal ($5), the center post gasket ($8) or the tub seals ($15 to $20). Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.

You’ll need a special $15 spanner wrench to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It’s available at your local appliance parts supplier. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Web site or one of the sites listed in “Buying Parts.”) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks. But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it’s time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals.

If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.

Sep 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

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