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Depends on the scope and rifle type to which it is attached.
I invested in an inexpensive laser bore such as this one for an AR: SightMark AccuDot Laser Bore Sight - 223 Model SM39001 (for AR-15)
Once the scope is mounted properly, and assuming you have not made any vertical or horizontal adjustments, set the rifle on a stable platform, insert the bore sight, point it at a target 50 (rimfire) to 100 (AR) yards out (works best in low light situation).
Once you have the laser centered on your target, make elevation and windage adjustments as necessary placing the scope cross hairs over the laser. Remove the bore sight and fire 3 rounds, then fine tune elevation and windage.
if it is verry tight back it off a little bit you dont want to break the seal.i have never been a big fan of the laser bore sighters.i have had a cpl and both were inaccurate.BSA makes a good bore sighter for 49 bucks.try a cpl shots with it and find out how far you are truely off.remember 1 click is 1/4 inch.in 100 yrds.in the army we had all the ammo we needed to sight our rifles in.but here in the real world with ammo prices so high a good bore sighter is the way to go.
You can get a base line by bore sighting the scope. Bore sight kits are a bit pricy, might be best to take it to a gun range an start at 15 yards shoot a few move out to 25 the 50 then 100. Yes your scope should be sighted for one gun one round, with a cold barrel. Let it cool between shots.
When adjusting a scope just move a few clicks at the time, after every few clicks tap the scope with a screw driver handle. Fire 2 rounds for group tap and fire the third round it should be in line with the 2. Keep that up till on target. Let the gun sit till cold and re-fire for grouping, 2 rounds, wait then the third. To keep shooting round after round can get the reciver warm enough to wedge the scope in its bases, causing your problem.
First is to try for a group, do not adjust the scope in any way. Shoot 4 rounds with out adjusting the scope. The gun should settle down and start to group. If you can not get a group in 6 rounds go clean that gun & check your ammo. Start over. If she does not group, its the gun not the scope. Once it starts to group move the cross hairs in the opp direction small clicks and "TAP' the scope after each adjustment. Shoot for a group each time 2 rounds should group. Get a target that has a grid to help get on faster.
Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.
Clean barrel if it needs it.
For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..
Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.
Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.
If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.
If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.
It will test the condition of the batteries. Turn the sight on to its brightest setting and leave it for 2-3 minutes. Then while looking at the red dot, press the battry icon button and hold it in. If the image does nothing, you are good to go. If it starts flashing, then you have less than 20% left in the batteries.
Without seeing the rifle, my guess would be that either the rings were not tight enough or the lens came loose from the shot. It is rare depending on the quality of the scope. If the lens itself moved, it will not be waterproof or fog proof because the seal on the lens is not tight. If its under warranty then it should be replaced, if not then be care full not to get it too wet. If you had a suction cup, you could try to reposition it straight again.
Ja, it's 1/4 M.O.A, so at 25 yards/meter it'll be ca 3 inches. You may have gone in the wrong direction. That is, if it was 3' high, and you went another 3 higher then you'd be at the top of the paper. Probably you've got it figured out by now.
The easiest, fastest, cheapest way to zero is with a rifle rest you can clamp your scope into, or alternatively somehow immobilize your rifle some other way. You take a shot, at 25 yards or so. It makes a hole. You now immobilize the rifle, via your rest or heavy sandbags, with the scope pointing exactly where you aimed before. You now, carefully and without moving the rifle/scope off of the point of aim, dial your reticle to point at the actual bullet hole. Your next shot will be at your point of aim now. So you just put it at the right height above your point of aim at 100 yards now.