Nikon d3000 blurred photos
You may be trying to hand-hold the camera in situations that call for a long shutter opening. These are usually indoor situations with with limited light, dark walls, etc or night time shots. To get an idea about the longest time you can hold a camera by hand with creating blurred pictures (without a tripod or other stable mount), look that the focal length of the lens. If it is a a zoom lens, this value changes depending on how far zoomed in or out you are. A 70mm-300mm zoom would have a focal length of 70 if zoomed out or widest, 300 if zoom in or narrowest or something between 70 and 300 if your not fully zoomed in or out. The lends will have indications as about the focal length you're current at. If it is not a zoom lens, it is a fixed or prime lens. You can only shoot at the focal length of the lens. Typical primes are 35, 50, 60, 85, 100, 105 etc. (but there are many more). Once you've determined what the focal length is, multiply by 1.5 (for DX sized sensors like the D3000 and others; FX bodies and 35mm film cameras skip this step of multiplying by a factor of 1.5). Let's assume you've got either a 50mm prime or an 18mm - 70mm zoom lens currently zoomed to 50mm. With the info above, 50 x 1.5 = 75. Next, find the reciprocal which is simple to do - just make it a fraction with a 1 on top, like this: 1/75. This fraction is the longest length of time in seconds that most people can hold a camera before shake appears in the captured image. The shorter the focal length or wider the shot, the longer it takes for the shake to be noticeable in the captured image. A few more examples follow: When the 18mm - 70mm lens is zoomed in to 20mm x 1.5 = 30; or 1/30 sec, when a 80mm-300mm lens is zoomed in at 100, 200 or more, that time plummets quickly: 200mm x 1.5 = 300; or 1/300 sec. 300mm x 1.5 = 450; or 1/450 sec. Use of a tripod, monopod, or other bracing is highly recommended. Additionally, you can try opening the aperture wider (a lower f stop number) and / or increasing the ISO value to 200, 400, 800 or more. The drawback to increasing the ISO is the introduction of digital "noise" or graininess. How much graininess that is acceptable is something only you can decide. Experiment by taking a number of pictures of the same subject (preferably with the camera on a tripod or table top) with a range of different ISO settings. Look at the results on a large screen - like your computer monitor - to get an idea about how the graininess or noise increases with each bump up of ISO. You will probably find that once you get to a certain value, it's not worth taking pictures. This will be your no go value - and you'll want to shoot at a lower ISO than this. it is not uncommon for this number to be as low as 200 or 400 with P&S (point a shoot) cameras and 800 on some entry and mid range dSLRs like your D3000 to as high as 3200 (or even more) on some higher end prosumer / professional bodies.
You may also be having an issue with focus. If you have turned AF (auto focus) off, you'll have to focus manually. If you have AF on, but do not hear the focus motor in the lens - there could be a problem with the lens. Try removing and reaseting the lens on the camera body again. Try other lenses to determine if it is lens specific or camera body specific. Also, if there isn't enough contrast in the subject, the lens will not be able to find focus. Check again taking pictures of well lit subjects. You may find that your lens will not open wide enough to reduce exposure time. This is where the expensive f1.2, f1.8 and upwards to f2.8 shine. They gather 2, 3 or 4 times as much light in the same time as a f5.6 lens can. The drawback to these lenses is their cost.
I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply, thanks.
Feb 09, 2012 |
Nikon D3000 Digital Camera