Fly wheel does generate a tingle if I turn the magnet by the coil. measured resistance on the high voltage lead to chassis ground and resistance from low voltage? lead to chassis ground. No resistance measured on the input to the Electronic Module. The low voltage wire goes into the module then into the rats nest wiring harness... I suspect this is a kill if bridged to ground.
I suspect the Electronic Ignition module but have not ruled out wiring, as I do not have a diagram.
There is a white wire off the coil that goes into the postage stamp sized module. There is also a red wire wrapped aroung the spark wire... is this the trigger for the module?
If no spark, does it sound like a bad module? Is there a such thing as a generic one, or do I need an OEM replacement? How much should one be and where does one find one on a Sunday?
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well sure you can, allthough if you have allready replaced the coil and plug , i can't see why you'd need to , it's the last thing there is to replace , but if youd like to anyway , just ground the black lead of volt meter anywhere on engine thats not painted or rusty , hold red lead on - side of coil (its the one with half the battery voltage on it) and turn engine over slow as possible you should see the volts rise and fall as it turns over , if not the ign module is not working
also i question why does this have a condenser if it has electronic ign ? cant say id ever seen that before .
Remove (if necessary) and check your flywheel where the magnet is at for rust,corrosion, and lightly sand with fine sandpaper to clean the surface, then sand the face of the induction/ignition module to also give it a good conductive surface.
Reinstall the flywheel again, if still no spark...then replace the induction/ignition module as it is faulty.
Note: Be sure to measure the distance between the module and the flywheel to make sure you put the new module in at the correct distance from the fly wheel or you will get no spark also.
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This may help in some cases... At night turn all the lights off, wait a bit for your eyes to ajust to darkness, start the engine and look at your coils. Bad one will have a blue sparking inside. This solution does not work in all the cases though. But it is fast and easy. If you can't find a bad one like this then try to measure resistance of the primary for each coil because it could be a burned primary.
Turn the flywheel magnets under the module poles and insert a thin business card into the pole gaps. Loosen the module screws and allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws then rotate the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Remove the stop switch wire from the end of the module body, then try for spark. If still nothing (You have tried a fresh spark plug gapped at 0.020"), then replace the defective module. Hope this helps!
The easiest way to test is on the machine. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module coil. Check the pole gaps of the module by inserting a thin business card into the gaps after turning the flywheel magnets under the module. Loosen the module mounting screws to allow the module to contact the magnets, tighten the screws, and turn the flywheel slightly to release the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up further. Use a fresh spark plug gapped at 0.020" and try for spark. If nothing, replace the module. This gets around measuring resistances while trying to evaluate the module. Hope this helps!
Did you check, that the magnet is on the flywheel. When you cleaned the flywheel, did some metal rasping gather around it. The magnet should be strong. A small steel instrument will be pulled by it.
The high voltage coil can be tested for resistance with an Ohm meter. The resistance may be some kOhm but not MOhm. If MOhm it should be replaced.
If the coil and magnet are OK, and well attached to the flywheel and aside with a minimal air gap, then the coil may be checked by turning the flywheel. As the voltage on coil ends when magnet passes by the coil should be very high, the only way for checking is with a spark plug, connected to the checked high voltage cable, the thread of the plug well connected to motor case. A spark is the prove that it is OK
Check also the HV cabel and the connection of other coil end to motor case.
I hope that this will be helpful, because I don't have your device in front of me. Some people rank such an answer with 2 thumbs (meaning useless). Better don’t rank.
there are a few different reasons(faults) why there wouldn't be a spark one is an open in the spark plug wire that would result in a very weak spark or a short to ground or a short to ground due to chaffed or broken insulation the third and least likely and more expensive reason is a bad magneto the mag is just a bunch of coiled wire that is bolted to the case or frame next to the fly wheel and a magnet mounted on the fly wheel passes by the coil and this makes the spark if the magnet or induction coil is damaged or broken off there wont be a spark ....start with the spark wire trace it back to the source (coil) and make sure it isnt damaged an omh meter will help to determine continuity and a megger will be be able to determine if the insulation is broken down and just not visible though there will most likely be visible damage if there is no spark at all..... also you could try starting the engine while listening for a snap somewhere other than the spark plug...good luck
Yes I believe that would fix the problem. It is under the hood mounted in the "power distribution box"
If this by slight chance doesn't work which I do think will work; Then you can try The HEI system, used on 2.5L, 2.8L and 4.0L engines, is a
pulse-triggered, transistorized controlled, inductive discharge
ignition system. The entire HEI system (except for the ignition coil on
fuel injected engines) is contained within the distributor cap. The
distributor, in addition to housing the mechanical and vacuum advance
mechanisms, contains the electronic control module, and the magnetic
triggering device. The magnetic pick-up assembly contains a permanent
magnet, a pole piece with internal teeth, and a pick-up coil (not to be
confused with the ignition coil). In the HEI system, as in other
electronic ignition systems, the breaker points have been replaced with
an electronic switch-a transistor-which is located within the control
module. This switching transistor performs the same function the points
did in an conventional ignition system. It simply turns coil primary
current on and off at the correct time. Essentially then, electronic
and conventional ignition systems operate on the same principle. The
module which houses the switching transistor is controlled (turned on
and off) by a magnetically generated impulse induced in the pick-up
coil. When the teeth of the rotating timer align with the teeth of the
pole piece, the induced voltage in the pick-up coil signals the
electronic module to open the coil primary circuit. The primary current
then decreases, and a high voltage is induced in the ignition coil
secondary windings which is then directed through the rotor and high
voltage leads (spark plug wires) to fire the spark plugs. In essence then, the pick-up coil modu
Check that the gap between the flywheel magnet and the module is correct, take the kill wire off the module, hook up a spark tester to the output of the module (spark plug removed), spin the flywheel - No spark means that the module is bad.